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Running in an Aprilia RS 125

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by Korben Dallas, Dec 23, 2010.

  1. G'day all,

    I've just picked up a new Aprilia RS 125 two stroke and was hoping for some advice regarding the motorcycle's run in period. I have found conflicting information and advice from other sources and was hoping that some Netrider members would have some experience in running in a similar motorcycle.

    If anybody can offer any tips regarding how I should be riding the motorcycle during such a critical stage it would be much appreciated.

    Thanks in advance.

  2. Searching should turn up a number of threads covering this topic. Doesn't your owners manual offer recommendations?

    Anyway, sorry it's far too early in the morning for me to go to the shed and find my barge pole.
  3. Did you grab the Biaggi Replica?
  4. You will find conflicting information because there are conflicting views on how to run an engine in. You are going to have to choose one and do it that way.
  5. Hello Korben Dallas,

    You're in luck because Aprilia have jumped on board these forums so you can direct you're questions to them in this thread or send them a private message.

    It appears they haven't jumped on board since 14/12 but you will find email addresses etc in above linked thread.

    Good luck in your quest of keeping a 2 stroke up and running.
  6. Two stokes have less moving parts, fewer rings so forth. So they don't take as long to break in.
    Don't load it up. As in use the bottom end. Not that it has one anyway. And don't scream it's titt's off. But slowly let it rev up. Don't hold consistent revs for about 500k's.
    Make sure it's up to running temp before you ride it. Ie About 80c. Keep moving around in the rev range.
    More so look after the brakes and clutch. Ease on the brakes. No heavy braking.
    Don't bother with the suspension preload and clickers till it has about 1,000k's on it.
    Well done with the new toys mate. They are a great little bike, and a lot of fun.
  7. Dont think that 80c would be anywhere near the correct running temp for the bike. My old RS250 had 50C thermostat's in it..... 2T run alot cooler and i can only imagine the RS125 would run pretty similar
  8. I have owned, rebuilt, and put 10,000km on an RS125. Here are some tips:

    1 - Don't ride off until the coolant temperature hits 50'C. If you're in a rush 45'C will do, but you really do need to let these things warm up. Often simply letting it idle while you put on gloves/helmet/jacket will be enough, but on cold winter days it can be a few minutes. Normal operating temp is around 65~75'C

    2 - Keep out of the powerband (below 8,000rpm) until you warm up to operating temperature. This will generally be around 10 minutes.

    3 - Only run 98 octane fuel. Running on 91 or 95 will cause preignition and eventually put a hole in your piston. If you do have to use 95 then you should not ride above 8,000rpm.

    4 - To run in your bike, I would recommend a simple regime of 15 minute intervals. For the 1st 15 you should use up to 1/4 throttle maximum. This could involve going to fill up with petrol and check tyre pressure. The 2nd 15 should be at no more than 1/2 throttle, and could include going to find a good riding road. The final 15 minutes should involve use of full throttle and runs up to redline, with varying acceleration and deceleration. Do not hold a constant speed for more than a few minutes in any of the stages, and perform a transmission oil change after the first 100km travelled. This is because any detritus from the engine will need to be removed from your transmission oil and will have dislodged itself by this time.

    As before, I've ridden RS125's for over 10,000km and have rebuilt the engines on various RS125's (friends etc) several times. If you follow the above you will be fine.

    Regards - boingk
  9. Sorry for the late reply - internet's been down. Thanks for the advice guys, I'm running it in based on internet material, the manual and the advice of an experienced Aprilia mechanic. I'm going to be as meticulous as possible with it.. not rushing any cold starts/warmups and not skimping on cheap 2 stroke oil.

    Incidentally, I was told to use lower octane fuel because the higher octane juice fouls the spark plugs. I believe a lot of "derestricted" bikes have had the spark plugs changed over and are able to run higher octane fuel though.
  10. You users guide states a minimum of 98 RON fuel. You'll have no problems with this if you ride the bike regularly. If you don't ride often, you'll find that the fuel goes stale and that's when you'll foul plugs.

    The RS125 is a great little bike and will teach you how to make the most of what you've got.
  11. Hi Korben,

    I recently did an engine rebuild and had the same issue as you now. Conflicting info. It is a real pain as the run in period is so long in km's compared to when you are supposed to do the engine again. Depends a lot on how many km's you ride as well. I did about 500 k's, working up higher revs per 100 or so then went for it. Seemed ok, but did not get to see how it worked in the long run as the bike was written off (not my fault) in the meantime.

    The 125 is such a fun bike but it is quite tempermental. Best thing to do is go through the pain of an engine rebuild (when the time comes). It is not so hard and means you can have a little more lee-way with the bike as any issues will not cost you so much if you fix it yourself.
  12. Hey Korben, you say you arte running lower octane juice, and that your bike is 'restricted'? This would be very uncommon in the Australian market as the restriction is based on learners not allowed more than 15hp and 125cc over in Britain and some parts of Europe. We got lucky for once, right?

    Anyway, the easy way to tell if your bike is restricted is to fill up with 98 octane at your next fill and go for a ride. It should have a nice surge in power from 7.5k upwards, ending around 10~10.5k. It will be quite noticeable compared to how the engine behaves in lower revs. If it has that nice, classic two-stroke 'surge' then you have a fully unrestricted bike.

    To check your plug, all you need to do is take off the seat and undo the front fuel tank mounting bolt. It will hinge up rearwards and you can check the sparkplug. It must be running an NGK BR10ES. The other option is to use a BR8ES plug, which is for the restricted bikes only, and may cause engine damage in an unrestricted one. If your bike is unrestricted, fit a BR10ES as soon as humanely possible.

    Again, make sure to use 98 octane and run the correct grade of plug.

    Regards - boingk
  13. Boingk all 08 bikes onwards are restriced for euro 3 as far as im aware
    And i thought the plug had to be br10eg
  14. Theres lots of conflicting info on the restricted/full power rs-125s. I was convinced my bike was some how restricted and from the research I have done this is my understanding:

    - There are restricted and full power models of the rs-125. Restricted models have no power valve and have something like 11kw, these are to meet learner legal requirements in other euro countries.

    - All aus delivered rs-125 are "full power", they have a power valve and RAVE controller. Bikes pre 2000 (i think up to 98) had a 34mm carb. Later bikes have a 24mm carb and different size jets.

    - There are still some "restrictions" on full power bikes. If you notice a dip in power around 5k-6k, then it is the CDI restriction which causes a power drop at that rpm in order to pass emissions test. You can get around this by doing a CDI mod which depending on the model of the bike usually requires drilling a hole in the CDI to break a connection. AFAIK there are no "ECU" restrictions that restrict top end power or anything like that.

    - The Euro3 bikes (07 onwards I think) have some nasty cats in the exhaust which will choke the bike at higher rpm. These models even in "full power" spec are slower than earlier rs-125s because of this.

    - It seems that people have a lot of issues with the 08 model bikes, it doesn't seem to be clear if there are any differences with them. Mine was running pretty poorly, and I rang some dealerships about it. I was given the response "we de-restrict all bikes when they arrive" and "oh some of the 08s can't be de-restricted".

    After putting an arrow exhaust and jet kit on my bike it is running full power at 30hp on dyno. I didn't do anything to the CDI or ECU, just got rid of the restrictive exhaust and changed jets to suit.

    If your bike is brand new, did you get the "max performance kit" from aprilia? Its $500 at first service with a new bike. Check my post in the mods section.
  15. They come with 28mm carb not 24 mm

    Ok i kept getting cdi and ecu mixed up my bad

    Not all 07s are euro 3
  16. yeah whoops thanks, meant 28mm carb.
    not sure when the euro 3s started, maybe late 07 build bikes? you can tell what u have by the sticker under ur seat.

    oh and please nobody take what I wrote above as gospel, thats just how I understand it from the various sources I have read. So much conflicting info out there.
  17. All the other infos good but
  18. The cat in the expansion pipe started in 2002. I had the last year model (2001) with a cat in the silencer... I promtly replaced it. Yes, this does rob a few horses. Scource a stock pre 02 pipe or get one from tygaperformance.com

    - boingk
  19. Thanks again guys, I have used 98 fuel as a result of your helpful advice... will definitely hit the 1000 km run in mark before I have the dealer fitted 34mm carb and arrow exhaust added (already paid for with purchase of the bike). Thus far the bike has behaved as expected, bogged down in the low rev ranges yet still a lot of fun for me to ride.

    The spark plug is a BR10EG by the way.
  20. Good to hear mate, and with the carburettor and expansion pipe... I'd be tempted to stick with the stock chamber. The aftermarket ones tend to give you a lot of over-rev and not much more. I tried a JollyMoto one on my bike and it wasn't all that crash hot. Apparently, though, the Arrow system is the pick of the aftermarket systems so it'll probably end up being quite good. Lord knows the non-dealer pricetag is...

    The 34mm carb, on the other hand... now thats a winner. Better everywhere, including throttle response. Your topend is the biggest difference though, you'll reall appreciate it.

    Let us know how it goes.

    Cheers - boingk

    EDIT: Yeah thought it'd be strange for it to be restricted. Sorry about my typo (ES instead og EG) on the plug earlier up, too... as you can see I've had a few bikes since my Aprilia.