Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Running a new bike in

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by slowass, Jul 1, 2006.

  1. Hi all
    Great forum and have been spending the last few days trying to read as much as i can :)

    Anyway the help i need is, I am meant to be picking up a new bike next week 2006 VT750 Cruiser in Cherry Red and as i have never run a bike in before(several cars) what is the best procedure?
    I live 110k's from the bike dealer so it will be a hour and forty minute drive back home 100k zone all the way home so yea what is the best

  2. Get there early and familiarise yourself with the owner's handbook. There will be running in instructions in teh book. You might not be doing 100 km/h on teh way home.
    Also spend the time getting used to the switches etc on the bike too.
    Check for yourself that all fluids, tyre pressures etc are where they should be. Remember humans put the bike together and did the pre delivery, we humans make mistakes!

    Regards, Andrew.
  3. the recommendations from mechanics for run in for my 675 is basically: keep rolling on/off throttle, not too quickly, don't hold a constant throttle for periods of time, don't 'baby it', go about 1/2 to 3/4 of redline as top rpm for first 500kms, slowly increase top rpm limit every 100km by another 1000 rpm til you can do redline. Very important to change oil + filter early on, the very minimum do the official recommendation (first at 800km or month ,whatever comes first), possibly 1-2 changes in between with that.

    But make sure you read up on forums and the owners manual in the recommended way to run it in or gauge various peoples ideas and work something out for you. It's a very debated topic what is the 'one best way' to break in a bike.

    Hope this helps :)
  4. Have a look at:


    If I were to get a new bike, I would:

    1. Buy quality mineral engine oil & an oil filter for my bike.
    2. Read the manual re: braking-in rpm guideline while warming up the engine.
    3. Once engine is warmed up, leave the dealer with some caution because tires need some break-in as well.
    4. Gently ride around a few blocks until feeling comfy with the new bike.
    5. Hit highway and follow the manual's break-in RPM guide MOST of time, but initially and occassionally apply hard break-in techniques mentioned in the URL above
    6. After arriving home, park safely and check bike's service manual or internet for oil change info.
    7. If not too hard or challenging, change oil/filter before the engine cools down to ambient temp.

    Anyway, congrats on getting a new ride.
  5. After reading the Breaking Techniques from the URL by deadmeat, it seems a little confusing to which way is best.
    Has any one tried the Hard and Fast breaking method?
    It seems strange that the maufacturer would feed new customers the wrong info to break in thier new bike.
  6. Do whatever you like, just make sure its at operating temperature. Your never going to know if what you did/didnt do had any effect on engine performance/life...
  7. Sorry a little off topic but...
    Just had a look at your pics Mike, nice machines :grin: , how does the R6 go?
    Have you tried the R1, if so how do they compare to each other?
  8. search on running in found 2132 topics or 3814 posts! read away!
  9. And your point is?

    and you point is? big prob with most forums is there is always someone that will tell you to do a search,give me a break,please
    easier to ask what you want to know

    I can also do a search on google typing running in and get more then 2132 topics

  10. Re: And your point is?

    I think she was referring to the fact that there are a shitload of different theories on the subject...
  11. i believe running in a new bike is a lot like making love to a beautiful woman... :LOL:
    you gotta start slow... and work your way into it! Before long you'll be able to give it all she's got!!!
  12. Slowass, can't you find a more interesting route home? Something with a few twisty bits in it? The best way to run a bike in is not to hold it at constant revs but take it through the rev range (having in mind the manufacturer's running in limits on rev's - it won't kill it if you go slightly over for a second but don't keep it there!) with changes of gear to help loosen up the gear box. Also remember your new bike will have new brakes! They don't bite as well from brand new, doesn't take long for them to bed in but just factor this in - so remember this and the slippy new tyres as well. You will be fine and congratulations on your new purchase.
  13. I would not recommend hard braking on new discs and pads.... I recently put new cross drilled slotted rotors on my Peugeot 405 mi16 , with heavy duty race pads, and was forced to do a panic stop, anyways, as the system was not yet bedded in, even with the ABS system active, it took longer to stop, not to mention the plooms of white smoke venting out of the wheels, followed by a burning smell. It was enough to upset the old couple next to me :) , they must have thought I was a mad man because I could not stop laughing. I sugest you take it easy, and get used to your bike.
  14. When I bought my last new bike ('01 929 Blade), the sales guy told me to ride it how I liked. No rev ceilings or bedding in periods, just nail it. So I did!

    Looking back, I dont know how smart it was to take the sales guy's word on it rather than a mechanic's, but it didnt appear to me to make any difference to how my machine performed.

    Having said that, I would err on the side of mechanical sympathy if I ever bought a new bike again (however unlikely that may be!)
  15. I too have been doing a bit of research on this topic for runnning in my new KTM. I have heard lots of stories over the years but the best advice I have heard (IMHO) is "ride normally, but take it a little easy."

    a few points to that are common to most of the articles/posts I have read...

    Never run-in an engine on synthetic oil - I don't know why but it's a generally excepted no-no - Mineral oil is the stuff to use.

    Always warm the engine up sufficiently before running it hard, this is important for all engines but especially so for a new engine.

    Don't "baby" the engine as this can result in insufficient pressure to seat the rings (piston rings use cylinder pressure to seal against the wall) and this may lead to higher oil consumption throughout the life of the engine.

    Have a bit of mechanical sympathy and don't trash it straight from the dealers!
  16. Last Thursday I bought a new GSXR 1000, and the main points the manual gets across are :
    1. Dont exceed RPM limits (under 6,500 until its done 1000kms etc...)
    2. Vary the engine speed (its important to put the enigne under some stress, though not excessive)
    3. Avoid constant low speed/light load (causes parts to 'glaze' and not seat in)
    4. Make sure you do your first service (1000km for me) ie. oil and filter change. When you do the first oil change you will notice bits of metal in it! So dont miss this service.

    As I said that's straight from the manual of this bike, so im not speaking from any experience. The dealer told me it was important not to sit at a constant speed, and make sure to put the engine under at least a little stress. I was happy to oblige on the way home :grin:
  17. When I bought my bike I asked how to run it in and was told to ride it like normal, just be careful of new tyres and brakes. :)
  18. Thanks for all your comments i read them all,they have been a welcome source of info, I have made the trip home on the bike now and probably rode it just normal,I also asked the mechanic how to ride home and he gave me the advice to not hold it at a constant speed but vary it and just ride it normally,that i tried to do as i am a newbie rider i did not get over 110kph but did try to alter the speed but found myself sneeking back to the 110kph quit a lot,lol

    I do ask one more question about the braking in article posted as to changing oil from synthetic to mineral for braking in,if comes with synthetic oil in it and they infact say to run synthetic in it and you change the oil to mineral would that in fact void warranty?

    one wonders

    anyway thanks again for all you info

  19. It's cheaper, that's good because we aren't going to be keeping it long anyway.

    It's not as slippery as synthetic oil, that's good because we're trying to wear the engine in.
  20. i was hoping when i pick up my new bike (hopefully in a two days) i would be able to just ride it. it seems more hassle than trying to keep the ol' virago at 100km's!