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Rotor Disc machining?

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by kingali, Jul 8, 2012.

  1. Where can I get Rotor discs machined? Mine are fully floating ones.

  2. Replace with new
  3. Agree, there's no point, most rotors only have .5mm of usable meat on them. Check out S3 performance' rotors, you can get some good quality ones from them cheaper than machining would cost..
  4. These are my 3rd set of rotors in 55k I have done on the bike. They are Galfer brand and only have done 7k on them. Not cheap.
  5. I take it they feel like they are warping? how did you bed them in?
  6. If you do decide to get them machined, avoid Planet Disks, the guy is a flake.
  7. just because they are... not cheap ...dont mean they arnt rubbish ,
  8. u can also check the bobins because they can freeze from brake dust i did mine today i found a bolt that fits .... brake cleaner and i uesd a cordless drill to spin them ,i f u think u got warp discs try this first
  9. don't machine bike rotors, there isn't enough usable meat.
    s3 and metalgear are simply fantastic from personal experience, and far cheaper than galfer.
    if you're chewing rotors that quick i'd suggest no longer using those brake pads.
    i've put maybe 10000km on my metalgears with ebc hh pads and they're nowhere near notched, and brake performance is phenominal
    my s3 are maybe only 200km old so no comparison can be made
  10. All sound like good advise. I was told the guy from planet discs is good. Obviously not. I changed the pads to get rid of this issue, worked for some weeks, but back again and it wasn't till I did the discs before it went away.
    Stick3, are Bobins the pins holding the pads?
  11. #11 stick3, Jul 10, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 13, 2015
    the bobbins/ buttons , fit between the front dics and the steel that bolts to the wheel, this give the the term ..floating disc .....i counted 8 on each side on my 09 gsx 1400, here a how to youtube vid

    • Like Like x 1
  12. Thanks. Will try it. Hopefully fixes it.
  13. #13 kingali, Jul 12, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 13, 2015
    Are they meant to be loose?
  14. Also did it make any difference for you?
  15. You havent said why you want to replace them yet and what kind of riding you do? Track riding/racing will accelerate disc wear with aggressive pad types. Do you prep the disc before putting on the new pads? The buttons aren't meant to be too tight or loose. The serve as the joint between the disc and the carrier for different rates of expansion. Because they are floating I've no idea how they'd be re-machined anyway. You can clean the buttons and even add more float yourself by some dodgy DIY action, or if you are feeling italian remove the spring clips completely from the buttons for that jangle jangle full float orchestra. But if the discs are worn & scored there's only one solution I know of. & metalgear discs weigh a ton.

    PS bgw just had 50% off galfer products this last week...
  16. I do the odd track day. These rotors have only done 5k. I do occasionally ride hard and brake hard, but no more than most experienced riders. I must mention that these are the third set of disc rotors I have replaced.
  17. What pads are in there & have you been in touch with galfer? It does sounds strange how fast it's worn if they are done at 7k. Are there any issues with the rotors apart from scoring, warped at all? Just to confirm you properly prepped them for new pads each time - Bead blasted or emery cloth/brake cleaner/bed in procedure?
  18. Not sure of the pad material. Could be ceramic. They were about $200. Have not contacted Galfer. They have only done 5k not 7k. I did go through the process of bedding them in. It's doing my head in.
  19. Have you tried it yet kingali?
    • Like Like x 1
  20. No. No freakin time. Let's go out now. Just got home.