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Roadworthy. Any pointers on what I'm missing?

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by jaguarfanster, Jul 4, 2012.

  1. I've been recently getting my Spada in "roadworthy" shape. Note the quotation marks on roadworthy. Anyway this is what I've done

    1. Mirrors: Replaced with new bar end type. Left and right
    2. Front Disc/Rear Disc: Checked both, rear disc replaced.
    3. Brakes pads: Replaced with new
    4. Brake fluid bled/refilled
    --->issue here is that the rear brake master cylinder was shot. The cover would not open on account of bad screws. Hence it was replaced with that from an r6 seeing that all Spadas have this problem. However being a different shape It doesn't mesh with the frame, so it has been secured tightly with grip ties. Furthermore the fluid level is above the "lower" limit, as the bottle is on slight tilt in order to fit the allocated position. Will this setup fail?
    5. Chain/Sprockets. Ordered from England will arrive in 2 days, and shall be fitted.
    6. Lights: Everything checks out, headlamps, indicators etc.
    --->issue here is that I've noticed two small hairline cracks in the rear tail light housing. However Vicroads states that lamps must be "free of any damage, which would permit dust or water to enter the lamp". As hairline cracks don't 'permit dust or water' from 'entering the lamp', is this satisfactory?
    7. Seat: Had a few duct taped holes. Seat was stripped, and retrimmed with spotlight furniture pleather. One crease. I'm not a professional!
    8. Tyres: Replaced with new Sport Demons.
    9. Mechanics/Engine/Driveline: Apparently fine. No odd sounds/ticks/cacophonies. No rust. Stock exhaust.

    Well let me know your opinion of the issues and what else might get nitpicked.
  2. Brakes and tyres with "enough" visible wear remaining.
    Correct operation of brakes.
    All lights and the horn work.
    No oil or water leaks.
    Throttle returns to the rest position when let go.
    Possibly "doesn't blow smoke".

    I can't imagine they'd look at much else, unless Vic really IS that bad for RWC...
  3. Check, check, check, check, check. check. Hit me with moooarrrr! Also the issues? good/bad? Victoria is a police state. I suspect RWCs would follow in the same suit.
  4. Sorry, you've lost me - issues?
  5. NSW requirements are as Nitekreeper states

    It would be a delightful irony if Victoria's were any more strict when once the Roadworthy is gained the vehicle can be falling apart around you and as long as you keep it it's never inspected for roadworthiness again :LOL:
  6. When it was time for me to get a pink slip in NSW I took the bike to a Motorcycle workshop in Sydney. They wanted to do repairs on it for $200 to let it pass. I said no thanks, drove it around the corner to a car mechanic. He asked me to turn on all light, honk the horn. Thats it. Passed for $20.
  7. Honestly, if you've put in the effort & it looks like you've put in the effort, you should be ok.

    Immediately the 'grip ties' holding the rear m/c resovoir on rings alarm bells. Assuming you mean zip ties, I can't see that passing. The hairline cracks in the lens housing, again, depends on the supplier.

    In reality, you're in the hands of the RWC supplier, you pay your money & take your chances. I've had good experience & bad experiences, with the same RWC suppler, based on the amount of prep I've done on the bike/s.

    If it does fail, don't get upset, just get clear instructions about what you need to fix & what level it needs to be fixed to, & do it.

    If anything sounds out of the ordinary, don't be afraid to call vic roads for clarification, one RWC supplier tried to tell me my brand new footpegs needed to be rubber covered, which is not quite true, as they need to be hinged OR rubber covered.
  8. I am bringing a CX500 back from the neglected to roadworthy condition - and have mnay similar questions (though I;m nin Qld).
    I'm basically just taking a common sense approach, getting everything working and clean and tidying it up.

    Hopefully that will do the trick.
  9. Brake master cylinder cable tied to the frame would be a deal breaker for me.

    Even if you have mis described it and are talking about the 'remote fluid reservoir' that should also be securely fixed....not cable tied.
  10. +1. Make up a little aluminium bracket and bolt it to something.

    Don't forget bearings - wheels, swingarm and stem. I've been failed on RWC for head stem bearings for three bikes. I should probably stop buying rats :)

    The cracks in the tail light are borderline. I wouldn't do anything about them unless pulled up. The inspectors might have a problem with your mirrors to if they're picky and the mirrors are little.
  11. Yes I meant cable ties, and the rear fluid reservoir, not the master cylinder. My bad.

    Well I suppose an aluminum bracket is essential. Would having the reservoir tilted, and slightly over full, be a problem?
  12. It won't cause problems with the operation of the brakes, as long as the tilt isn't so bad that the feed hole is exposed when you toe the lever - race bikes often replace the resevoir with a piece of fuel tube that holds the same amount... Remember though, that sometimes you'll be on a hard lean, and if you need a dab of rear you'll want to be pushing fluid, not air down the hose...
    For RWC however, I think the others are right: "properly fixed" and as level as you can get it...
  13. I recently blue slipped the beemer

    He checked the engine numbers and so forth , And that everything worked.

    Not sure if it was the smile on my face or if he liked the bike .15 mins later i was riding to get rego
  14. This is good to hear - I'll be blue-ing my own Spada after the rebuild.
    I put a car over the pits once and that was a nightmare, so I was expecting the same...
    Did you mod the BMW at all?
  15. Nope , Just mastered the the worlds most complex braking system to get it back on the road. Nine bleeder valves

    I told the mechanic i replaced the ABS unit and brakes , he seemed pretty impressed ,and could hear the R2D2(abs) unit under the tank.
  16. :shock:
    You deserve a blue slip for sure.
  17. Okay took it to roadworthy and got rejected for these problems,

    I replaced the stock, broken, mirrors with bar ends. Considering the look way cooler and provide greater rear vision, I thought this was sufficient. Apparently this in "unroadworthy". Why? Because they aren't the same. They aren't the crappy stock mirrors. I'm gobsmacked.

    Bearings were to be replaced too, due to a little play in the wheel. This was a major pain, but eventually I knocked out the old bearings. Now to press in the new.

    Fender eliminator is "unroadworthy". Plastic must be extended to pass.

    After all the work I've done on the bike, I'm kinda shocked.
  18. That sounds like bs. I'd understand if his problem was that the surface area of the mirrors is too small, but there is no requirement that your bike is fitted with stock items.
  19. Yep exactly. I checked the VicRoads guide, there is no mention requiring "stock mirrors". I mean as long as the job is being done, and in my opinion even better than before, they should pass. They are the exact same mirrors used on the triumph thruxton.

    Then again I can't go elsewhere now. Once a mechanic has looked it over, you have to pay them, or risk breaking the law. However it seems to just be a matter of interpretations/opinions. Perhaps another would fault me on the lack of 'speed holes'.

    Regardless I'm fixing up my old broken stock mirrors. What a waste of time.

  20. Only 1 of 3 items mildly debatable....reasonable effort for a first go I would have thought.
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