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Riding on the dirt?

Discussion in 'Adventure/Enduro' at netrider.net.au started by Krollinator, Jun 28, 2012.

  1. So I've been riding for all of four months now, and I've been told by several people that learning skills on the dirt helped them on the road with bike control (sliding around and stuff). I've also got a few mates with 4x4's who would be interested in coming out to the tracks and such shenanigans.

    My question is, does anyone know where to get cheap dirt bikes? I'm talking like, cheap cheap. Like, uni student cheap. I don't even know if it's possible to get cheap cheap bikes, but I figure there is no harm in asking the question.

    I definitely want to keep my road bike, and I have a van so I can transport any sort of dirt bike so it doesn't need to be registerable.

    Anyone got any ideas? Or if this is even plausable or whether this is just something I should wait until I can actually afford something!

    Thanks!


     
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  2. Ebay is your best bet I reckon. Seems to have most of the cheaper bikes there.

    For types of bikes, go for some simple aircooled thing I reckon cuz low risk and eaay to look after. Like an old yamaha tt.

    Cool bananas.
     
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  3. Keep an eye out for an old DT175. Get historic rego on it and you can put around toolangi to your hearts content!
     
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  4. building a 78 DT178 project at the moment ;)
     
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  5. Ive been looking round for the same thing. Plenty of cheap chinese bikes on ebay, you can get and ADR approved 200-250cc bike for $2500k and there are some 250cc pit bikes on there for $800 you could prob get rec reg. Personally I'd look for a cheap japanese kx, dt, xr or cr as you can't go wrong with an 80/90's jap bike it will run for ever.
     
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  6. bit too much of an ag bike,
    if it were me id be looking at an old xr (post 1986) or a simmilar mono shock (suspension will take anything you can throw at it... ive tried) aircooled 4 stroke enduro bike. as there is next to nothing to go wrong with them, they were built to be ridden into the ground, then fixed with a basic tool kit. and parts are cheap

    as with going to a 2 smoke will mean more $$$ in oil and maintanance.....
    and anyone who says otherwise has rosy coloured glasses on and lying out their ass...

    a top end rebuild on a 2 stroke on average is $250-300, on a 4 stroke its $170 (honda) to $280 (yamaha),add to this that 2 strokes need rebiulds twice as often. (not talking dt or other air-cooled ag bike... as they should get rebuilt alot more then they do -the owner's just seem to wait till they completly die, then do the bare minnimum to get it running again at some sort of level) and your starting to get the picture

    now someones going to post about valves on a 4 stroke, my reply is simple,
    what about your reeds on the 2 stroke. unless its a late model crf, valves on a 4 stroke dont need adjusting till major services.

    now ive never owned a 2 smoke, but in my experience most people will own a 2 stroke for a short time (in terms of use), love the power etc... but end up going to a 4 stroke as its just a more practical and easier bike to ride and maintain, yet to see someone regularly (every weekend) use a 2 stroke.... most seem to be a ride every now and again.

    2 strokes are great toys (hell, id love one for the odd hoon blast), 4 strokes are better bikes
     
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  7. Any suggestions on what size? Had a quick browse through and found an xr80 for $600? But apparently it needs new piston rings...
     
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  8. I think you're getting normal 2-strokes mixed up with the you-bewt powervalve style MX bikes. I'd rather do a top end (piston and rings on a two stroke + valves etc on a 4-stroke) on a two stroke any and every day of the week. My experience is very different to yours - 2 strokes are a lot simpler and cheaper to rebuild.
     
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  9. I've got six dirt bikes and all of them are two strokes. They are fun to ride, light, fast, easy and inexpensive to maintain. Once you get your head around two stroke engine philosophy you'll soon fall in love with the pure simplicity of the beast.
     
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  10. Krollinator first thing: motorbikes and cheap NEVER go together. Motorbikes are bottomless pits that devour money like charlie sheen devours cocaine.

    You will need around $3000 for a decent secondhand jap,
    or $1000-3000 for a new china bike.

    for something with power you need minimum 125 two stroke or 250 four.
    road trail, enduro or MX. china bikes will be cheaper than jap, but not as good (yet), i think they are also smaller framed bikes mostly. The better china bikes aren't too bad, but jap bikes are the shizzit. (or KTM or husky, but they are even more $$$) If you are looking for a f uckaround, just get a postie bike.

    Four strokes last longer between services, but an overhaul will NOT be easy on the bank. Spenaroo, where the f uck do you get 170-280 for a four stroke top end?
    do you mean a valve adjust?
    a new piston/rings/valves+labour will be AT LEAST $1000 (but will last a lot longer than two stroke)

    Four strokes may go longer, but when they blow up, its basically a paper weight. (keep the valves adjusted!)

    personally i am looking for a jap two stroke 250, but they are not for the faint hearted.

    Look at the prices of new china bikes (that have parts and service departments)
    or try to get a decent jap MX or enduro. Don't bother with ag bikes or posties unless you want to just putt around.

    to tear shit up hardcore you need a proper jap bike

    If your road bike is not a really sporty model, you could consider a good road/trail bike instead
     
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  11. Good to hear your opinion mate, thanks!

    And my road bike isn't sporty - just a little GPX 250... But it may turn into something very sporty once I'm off restrictions ;)
     
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  12. For shits and giggles sure get a dirt squirt but they are very different beasts to ride than a road bike. They are good for learning the very basics and also for trying some advanced techniques but in the sort of middle ground I think they do more harm than good to my road riding, bagging up the rear everywhere and backing it in is not wise on the road8-[. You tend to get in the zone on either and while the skills are mostly transferable the techniques on the whole are really not and this may get you into trouble if your instinctive reaction is wrong.
     
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  13. a word of warning on the cheap chinese pit/dirt bikes.

    i have only known one person (small light chcik) to buy one to learn on .. the front end collapsed under tame riding.

    dunno if this is typical but worth checking more about them if you go that direction
     
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  14. $250 - $300..faaaark orrrfff. :)
    A DIY guide for a top end re-co on the Suzuki ts185.

    Remove fuel tank and drain. (I'll tell you why later)
    Remove exhaust. Two header nuts and one rear mount bolt.
    Remove carby. One ring clamp. Leave all the cables connected, just swing it out of the way.
    Undo head nuts and remove the head. Four nuts.
    Undo nuts at the base of the barrel. Six nuts.
    Remove barrel. Leave the oil lube lines connected, there should be enough slack in the lines to lift the barrel off the studs.
    Remove circlip from piston pin.
    Tap out pin.
    Remove piston.

    Reverse order to re-assemble. ## you'll need a torque wrench to re-tighten the head. ## Mix a 50-1 oil/fuel ratio for start up to lube the new rings and insurance if any air has has entered the oil lines.

    Cost for parts - piston and ring kit $64, head gasket $10.
    Time required, about 1-2 hours.
    If you're using the bike for general trail/off road riding (not racing) then a re-build should last around 7-10 years of normal use.

    Have fun.
     
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    • Like Like x 1
  15. ...would you suggest getting a ts185? Are they good bikes?
     
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  16. blueZX is right in a way, offroad techniques are sometimes the opposite to on road techniques mainly;

    cornering: offroad the bike is moved under the upright rider, rather than the rider leaning over the bike on the road. The front end is never trusted off road, and you can 'steer with the rear' basically all the time.

    braking: offroad braking is rear heavy front light, onroad braking is front heavy rear light.

    So some things are opposite, but lots of my bike control skills came from sand and dirt, and i think it is good to know the opposite sides of a certain technique. Your wet road skills will be vastly improved, because of low off road traction. You just have to remember that the techniques can be different, not only onroad to off road, but even between different offroad surfaces!

    (for instance, grabbing the throttle in sand will dig a hole, in gravel it will flip you off the back)

    But i learnt to powerslide offroad, so when my R6 starts to slide at high speeds on tarmac, i know exactly what to do without any worries, because it feels natural.

    I have as much fun riding a klx 250 off road, as riding an R6 on the road. Riding offroad is an absolute model f ucking blast!!!

    hitting jumps, powersliding, sitting on the tank trying to hold the front wheel down while the rear wheel digs a trench and the front comes up anyway! Its the best fun you can have with pants on.

    models to go for
    cr, kx, yz, rm (motoX 2 stroke)
    crf, kxf, yzf, rmz (moto X 4 stroke)
    wr, klx, drz, (enduro)
    klx, xr, ttr, dr (road/trail)
     
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  17. If you want something simple and around two grand look at the Yamaha DT or WR 200.
    It doesn't do much well. But it will do it all and get you out of there.
    Some thing a lot in your price range wont do
     
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  18. ok, the pricing was for the rebuilds of an cr and a yz,
    as compared to a crf and a yz###f,

    which is why i said, this is not the old ag bikes (i.e. aircooled, no power valves etc.. the stuff you expect to find on propertys or farms as a run-around or spare bike) but the biggest cost increase was the small end bearing, which doesnt exixst on a 4 stroke ($20-40 for a genuine bearing). and the head o'rings rather then a gasket (obviously not on a older bike that doesnt run a water jacket).
     
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  19. nope... that $170 was retail for a crf250 2012, thats a piston (90), rings (40)gudgeon pin (20), 2 circlips (few dollars) and a top and bottom gasket (20). all genuine honda. may have been give or take $10 but im pretty sure it was that price (my memory, may be wrong)

    and yes that suprised the crap out of myself and the bike salesman.

    obviously labour is a butload more.... but most of the old 4 strokes are easy to do a top end yourself

    But i paid simmilar money for parts when i rebuilt my 1986 xr250 top end.
    biggest cost was the new camchain that needed doing aswell.

    where the hell are you getting your piston kits,

    woosner and wiseco (the two aftermarke brands i deal with)
    are both at the $170 mark for a piston and ring kit

    amen,
    i used to eat dirt hard, when i accidently countersteered instinctively......
     
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