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Rhino Leather products from ebay Australia...any good?

Discussion in 'Riding Gear and Bike Accessories/Parts' started by Ben ZfullerSchitt, Oct 8, 2012.

  1. Im a noob. Been researching protective gear - shocked at some of the prices for things. Totally not prepared to pay top dollar to wear an A* logo or the name Dainese on my person. Wondering how much of that cost is for the quality of the product and how much is for the brand name of the product.

    Anyway, even if I wanted that gear I couldn't afford it right now, so I found this jacket on ebay from Rhino Leather:


    I'm wondering if anyone has any first hand experience with this brand and their products. Are these quality products that are cheaper just because they don't have a big brand name plastered all over them? Or are they just cheap and nasty? I'd be interested to hear anyone's thoughts, cheers.

  2. havnt used Rhino leathers, but i do have a 'Bikers Gear' leather jacket and pants, each were around the 200 mark.

    i havnt tested their road resisting qualities, nor am i planning to... but a friend (who i believe is having an afair with some gravel) has tested this on several occasions.

    after 3 crashes, low to med speed, there was only a couple of small scars, and he got up to crash another day.

    one thing to note, after about a year of having my leather pants, one of the seams has lost one row of stiching... this may be because my super muscley thighs were just too much for them... :)
  3. The main problem with buying ready made gear on the net is sizing.It seems to vary a lot between different manufacturers.
    Even the expensive makes with their brands splattered all over them are made in third world countries. All that sponsorship has to be paid for and I dont think you get Casey Stoner type of gear when you buy an over branded jacket.
  4. In a number of gear tests by MCN and other mags cheap gear has performed better than the top branded expensive gear. There is plenty of cheap gear out there, and I'm sure there are a number of items that offer outstanding quality and protection.

    However, I think (generally speaking) name brand gear offers R&D and quality control beyond that of cheap gear, so while it may be offer less 'bang for buck', I think 99% of dainese (or RS Taichi, etc) race suits will keep me safe in a crash, whereas 80 or 90% of cheap suits might keep me equally safe and cost less, but I'm happy to pay the extra not to risk the extra 10/20%.

    However, that might just be me justifying being a brand whore haha and I wouldn't pay the high ($750-900 jackets etc) prices the good gear costs in Australia. If its leather, looks well constructed and it has CE armour its going to keep you safer than most textile jackets or nothing at all, and will be more than enough for the street in most cases.

    Edit: If you look at this link it should give you some info you can use to work out if the gear will provide sufficient protection: http://www.roadsafety.mccofnsw.org.au/a/75.html
  5. Cheaper gear tends to use a cheaper "cut" of leather. So although it may still offer the same crash protection it's often thicker and not as "soft and supple" as the more expensive brands - which only used the soft underbellies of virgin cows hand fed only the finest of imported grasses (or at least that's what I'm assuming they must use based on how much they charge).
  6. my bikers gear jacket did have quite thick leather, CE armour in pockets for the shoulder and elbow that you had to position everytime you put it on... but it was less than half the price of a similar branded jacket. and i know that, i used it untill i had a chance to buy a nice comfortable, good looking Dainese without complaint.

    as long as you are aware that a cheaper leather may not be as cut as well, not using the nicest cut of leather and not going to fit perfectly the first time you put it on... it will prob be fine
  7. I bought the same jacket from rhino about 2 years ago and although I have no other leather jacket to compare it with, I found the zips to be annoyingly hard to use more so on the vents than anywhere else I had to remove the elbow armour untill I used the jacket a bit and the leather softened a little.
    I also found that the jacket is somewhat heavier than most more common branded jackets which I have tried on in stores.
    The vents even with all of them open did pretty much nothing which turned out quite useful when riding in the rain, I found the collar was stiff and uncomfortable at first because of the way it locks/buttons/toggles close. Once the leather does soften its not a bad jacket and comes with a winter vest-type liner which I never needed mainly because the poor airflow the jacket has.

    However I bought it knowing it was a cheaper leather jacket that would suffice while I was unemployed and studying so I feel I got my moneys worth out of the jacket fortunately I never had to test out its ability of protecting my in an off.
    • Like Like x 1
  8. So how much did you spend on your bike?
    • Like Like x 1
  9. A grand total of $0 so far man. I'm bikeless. Sans motorcycle. Without wheels.

    I want to get some gear in the meantime so I can ride borrowed or hired bikes til I have the $$$ to get my own. I see your point man, I'm just not into forking out extra coin for the privilidge of wearing a brand name UNLESS the superiority of the product justifies the pricetag. Because I'm a noob, my biggest consideration would be the protective capabilities of the gear. Is a 1.2 - 1.4mm cowhide jacket with brand logos all over it going to offer me better protection than a 1.2 - 1.4mm cowhide jacket with no such logos? I don't know...I'm guessing the quality of stitching has alot to do with it, but like I say I'm a noob so I am still ignorant to many of the things you guys know alot about - I am merely seeking enlightenment from the wise! :)
  10. This is what good leathers will do.
    Highside at Winton

    Second video is at Daytona at approx 180 mph or 285-290 kph.
  11. I've got a Rhino one-piece, bought four years ago for track days (of which I've done exactly one so far :oops:).

    I haven't crash tested it, but close examination gives a good impression. The leather is very thick and stiff (as others have pointed out can be an issue with cheaper leathers) but does appear to be decently manufactured and acceptably tough. The seams are all properly constructed so as not to wear through and burst when subject to abrasion. The zips look and feel good with no roughness or snagging but no slackness either. Most of the armour seems OK (claims CE approval, but I dunno how much store I'd set in that). The included back-protector is a crappy bit of foam and needs replacement (or the use of a separate, articulated item) and the hump is a bit wanky (not exclusive to the Rhino, though, IMHO all humps are wanky unless you're a top notch racer).

    Overall, a damn good suit for the price, which I've forgotten but seem to remember as being ~$400 or so.

    As for sizing, I followed the sizing guide that Rhino provide and was honest about my (mildly embarrassing) measurements. The suit that arrived fitted me perfectly, including being long enough in the sleeves, which is unusual for me. It pulls me into the classic "constipated gorilla" stance, but that's the normal deal with race suits unless you buy one specifically designed for speedway or motard use.

    Like I say, I haven't crash tested it so I can't offer an unreserved recommendation but I was quite happy wearing it while wrestling an uncooperative BMW K100 behemoth around Wanneroo in a time that embarrassed a couple of numpty Gixxers so I couldn't have been that worried about what would happen if I binned it :twisted:.
  12. I think you should wait until you have the money for both a bike you're happy with AND decent gear.

    Hiring bikes means you don't get enough time to properly learn to ride and you don't get to learn the bike as you have a different bike every time.

    Plus if you can't afford a bike or leathers, you sure as hell can't afford the excess you'll get stung with if you damage it.
  13. Those videos are kinda pointless without something to show that cheaper leathers wouldn't offer a similar degree of protection.

    Besides, not too many noobs come off at 295kph then proceed to slide for long distances over perfectly smooth tarmac. Usually it's the trees, power poles, curbs, etc. you need to worry about a lot more - and it's pretty easy to fit decent armour in/under cheap leathers.
    • Like Like x 1
  14. Yeah good points Hobbsie. The place I did my Q-Ride at is 5 minutes away from where I live. I got along with the guy who taught me pretty well and he said if theyve got rides coming up I can jump on the 450 i used there and go out with them. Thats my best chance of riding in the short term I guess. As for what gear to buy, Im slowly developing a better idea of what boxes should be ticked and what sort of price is appropriate. Cheers for everyone's advice. Nods all round.
  15. Well i am not stopping anyone to post there videos.
    These aren't my videos, just other people posting them. I hope someone does post there videos, i would be interested to see them.
    True regarding poles, trees etc can stop that but smooth surface or not this is where the suit gets tested the best for abrasion resistance.
    But hey everyone has there price point and opinions on the topic.
  16. Agreed. Everyone has their own riding style/pace as well. But let's not get into the whole "are 300kph+ tested leathers really necessary to ride to work and back" debate ;)

    FWIW the store I bought my cheap $400 Pakistani leathers from had a pair that had been slid down the road a considerable distance. These had held up very well, the leather was well worn down in places (though not through) and the stitching was still all intact (the previous owner had donated them to the shop as a thank you for basically saving their life). Wouldn't necessarily rush out to buy a set for racing, but most new riders should have plenty of time to save for a second set of race leathers before they ever see a racetrack.