Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Respraying the zzr250....

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' at netrider.net.au started by Noticibly F.A.T, Jun 15, 2008.

  1. The time has come!

    Starting this week, she is getting resprayed. Me and my mate are going to do it. I've fairly handy with tools n stuff. He has sprayed a few cars before, and has all the equiptment, and some heat lamps for drying.

    I have a couple of cracks to repair on the bike. About 5cm long or so. Any reccomenation as to what i should use?

    I'm gonna do the sanding a crack repair before i get the bike to his place.

    Any suggestions/tips that you guys can offer will be greatly appreciated :)



    Oh, btw... i'm thinking red :)
  2. I've got NO expertise in this stuff at all, but I've been advised about re-painting my bike to use a car non-metallic paint, that way it can be touched up when you get stone chips etc.....
  3. Cheers mate.

    I'm gonna need to remove the fuel tank....

    Any ideas on how to do this?
  4. Undo the bolts holding it to the frame and disconnect the hoses. That's pretty much all there is to it (unless you have a fuel gauge in which case disconnect that as well).

    As for the cracks I'm in the process of repairing a few myself. Method I've used was to first glue the edges with a model glue which chemically melts and fuses the plastic together (I use Revell brand stuff which works well, most Hobby shops should stock it).
    I then reinforced behind the crack by roughing the surface with a file, thoroughly cleaning with wax and grease remover (very important), then applying a plastic filler (specifically this one). Same filler can also be used for smoothing out the side of the fairing you see.

    Edit: Oh and an alternative to using non-metallics is to apply a decent clear coat over the top, that way minor stone chips/scratches (hopefully) only affect the clear layer.
  5. Teh best money spent on fairings is getting them welded. Ask at your local panelbeaters, there are companies that specialise in it.
    You'll get teh fairings back needing to be sanded and filled around teh repairs, but that's not a big deal either.
    Remember, for a good paint job, no shortcuts! 90% preparation, 10% painting.

    Regards, Andrew.
  6. Ok, i got some 400, 800, and 1200 grit sand paper...

    Its wet/dry

    Can anyone tell me how to sand properly? I don't wanna stuff it up...
  7. Important bit is to use plenty of water to prevent it clogging - submerging the part in a bucket or bathtub often works. Then you just work down through the various grades of paper.
    With each step you want to remove all the scratches from the previous stage and make sure that the surface is as smooth as possible before going to a finer grade paper. If you're impatient and leave a big 400 grit scratch it'll take a hell of a long time to remove it with 1200 grit paper ;). When you're finished with the 1200 everything should have a dull haze to it, but no obvious scratchmarks.
    Oh and if you're trying to sand a flat surface don't forget to use a sanding block - otherwise you may find the plastic getting a lot thinner at the edges than in the middle.
  8. I also use a spray bottle of water (windex-type thing) and keep it wet that way. As regards to working down the wet and dry grades, I wouldn't go lower than 400 for the base coat. That gives the primer something to bite into. Too smooth and you can get adhesion problems. The primers usually have high-build properties to fill minor irregularities like fine scratches, and once they go off, you can wet and dry them smooth, but also only down to about 600-800, to again give the top coats something to grip to. The finer grades are for colour-sanding either the top-coat or clear coats which will be cut and polished. You can go right down to 2000 on these.

    So, bottom line would be don't go too fine between coats, but go as fine as you have the patience for on the final layer before cut and polish, keeping in mind the finer you go, the better the finish. Just be careful to leave enough paint on :wink:

    Don't forget the pics when you're done.

  9. Yeah fair point, depends a lot on the primer. Some plastic primers chemically bond to the surface so a mechanical bond isn't so essential. But sticking with 400 is the safer option since you can always sand the top layer down (just takes more time and effort).
  10. It maybe a little tricky if you never weld plastic before. If you want to do it properly you need to weld the cracks with ABS plastic otherwise most ABS bond super glues will do it.