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Replacing rear rotor and pads

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Bravus, May 1, 2008.

  1. Wheel came off nice and easy in about 5 min, old rotor in no more, new rotor has been put on wheel (4x Allen bolts). Just about to try to pull out the old pads and put the new ones in. Suspect there'll be some bleeding involved (the bike, not me, though you never know) and then put it all back together (will give the rear wheel a quick wash while it's out).

    Is this all there is to it? The packaging for the pads and rotor (from Metal Gear) were festooned with 'WARNING, DO NOT INSTALL UNLESS YOU ARE A QUALIFIED MECHANIC' warnings. I'm pretty confident, but that spooked me a little bit.

    Thanks for any help/suggestions. In particular, things like 'should I have loctited those Allen bolts' and such... and particularly any 'OH SHIT, DON"T WHATEVER YOU DO DO THIS!!!!'
  2. Hmmm..... Well yeah I'd loctite the bolts, but I can't see why a disc is much different from a sprocket. Go for it.
  3. I'm sure the warning is just a liability thing. The brakes are a pretty important part of the bike. If something goes wrong, they can say it should have been done by a qualified mechanic!

    I put new blades on the lawn mower last weekend. The first instruction on the blades packet was "turn the mower off". If your the kind of person who could not work out this step yourself, you probably should not be changing brake pads either?
  4. Sorted, far as I can tell without taking it for a test ride.

    Had to remove a reasonable amount of brake fluid from the system to make way for pads that were 3-4 mm thick instead of 0-1 mm and a thicker rotor too, but when I gave the brakes a pump once they were all back together and the nipple closed they pumped up fine with no bleed required. I'll check the fluid level and such, but fingers crossed it's been a very easy process indeed.
  5. Done, dusted, cleaned up and tested. It'll happily lock up the Battlax on dry hotmix, no fade, no nuttin'.

    Moral - someone with not a lot of experience but a decent amount of common sense and mechanical aptitude can do this pretty easily. At least on a small bike - it would have been a physically tougher task on the big Bandit just because the back wheel is that much bigger and heavier, but mechanically no more complicated.
  6. :rofl:
  7. My only concern would be with the if the correct tension was applied to the studs that hold the rotor on. I'd recommend using a torque wrench for this. Uneven/incorrect tension could warp the rotors.
  8. it's a 2 beer job.....no other advice should be required
  9. Ah well, I don't own a torque wrench but did my best to get them evenly tightened. The bike goes off to its new home in Mt Isa today. I'm an academic, so there's a real sense of achievement for me in taking on something like this and pulling it off without major hassle.