Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Replacing Handlebars VTR250

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' started by RedWings01, Jul 4, 2016.

  1. Hey guys,

    Unfortunately I low sided my VTR250 going around a small left corner. Still unsure to what exactly caused the low side but what I do know is that my handlebars are bent. I searched online for the OEM handlebars and they cost a solid 190$..... Seeing as I won't be spending that much on stock bars, I was hoping to pick up some aftermarket ones.

    Has anyone had experience replacing the bars on the VTR250 as I've heard they need some drilling... I am currently very tight on money and I need to buy replacement bars ASAP. I did some searching and found a site called thirdgear and they have very good priced bars.

    Does anyone know exactly how to replace the bars and any experience from thirdgear?

    Thanks, I want to do this myself but kind of put off by the fact I have no clue what I am doing.
  2. The only drilling I have done over the years fitting bars to to allow the end weights to fit inside some bar ends, can be done with haft round file or some switches have little pins inside that stop them rotating, pain in the arse and not too helpful. Can be filed off as well.This depends on weather there clip ons or more traditional type bars.
  3. Will it affect the hand controls in anyway if I file the pins off? They aren't clip on handlebars. I just went and measured the width at around 64cm. The bars I want to buy are around 69cm. Will I need to buy new throttle cables and a new clutch cable? Or is this fine? Thanks
  4. It shouldn't if you can snug them enough to not rotate, some tape should fix this if needed. The cables should be ok, cannot guarantee anything though. It will be hard to get your old grips off without damage, time to buy some nice gel replacements maybe.
    BTW you can reduce the width with a hack saw if you want, just make sure there is enough bar on the straight bits to fit all the stuff. Switches wont fit on the bendy bits.
    BTW check your bar mounts are not tweaked or bent instead of the bars. It happens sometime. Look to see if you have split purchs, thats 2 bolts holding the brake and clutch lever mounts to the bars. Wat easier than 1 bolt ones that need to slide off the end of the bars.
  5. Just checked and the bar mounts are not bent. The handlebars are definitely bent. The brake and clutch lever mounts are held with 2 bolts. What do you mean by using tape to snug them?

  6. I have seen cases where without the pins in the switch gear they slip around the bars.Teflon plumbers tap solves this. Dont try drilling holes in the new bars instead of removing these pins. not easy to get them aligned. Maybe there are no pins and its all good.
  7. Alright, Ill keep that in mind. I did some more searching and there are pins. Apparently a locating pin inside the VTR250 throttle control.
  8. Just to clarify this, the switch units sometimes have a little pin on the inside that engages with a hole in the standard bars. If so, your new bars will not have the hole (unless they are genuine replacements). The hard way to fix this problem is to try to drill holes in the new bars, the easier way is to just file off the pin on the inside of the switch unit. The disadvantage of this is that the switch might slide around the bar if you can't get he bolts tight enough, in which case you can wrap some tape around the bar under where the switch goes to give it more grip.
    If you file the pins off, make sure you don't let the filings drop into the switch and give it a vacuum to make sure.
  9. Sometimes you can pull them out with vise grips. I have no idea how the throttle would have a pin as it slides up from the end of the bar.Doesn't sound right to me.Where the cable attaches in the bits that sandwich might have a pin like bit. Anyway with luck you should be able to disconnect the bar from the bike and slide a lot of this off the end and on to the new bar. Its a bit of a juggle. Protect your tank from wacks.
  10. I see that seems much easier than drilling a hole in the new bars. I'll order some new bars and grips and try install them. Thanks for the help. Much appreciated.
  11. Hi,

    I've had to replace handlebars on a VTR. The switch block on the throttle control has a lug that fits into a hole on the handlebar.

    It's easy to drill an aftermarket bar, the problem is drilling the hole in the correct place so that when it's all assembled the switch block is positioned correctly. That sounds easy, however sometimes you have to rotate the handlebar position a bit to ensure cables aren't stretching too tightly around the headstem. If you've drilled the hole first, then rotate the bar a little, the switchblock and throttle isn't quite right.

    You could look on eBay or wreckers for an original VTR 250 handlebar.

    Good luck,

  12. Is it ok if I file off the pin? Or do I have to drill the hole?
  13. Filing the pin is probably easier and means you can adjust the position of the switch if needed. Drilling the new bar is easy if you have a centre punch, a good drill and sharp drill bits. The best thing is that you get to choose!
  14. I got mine from Third Gear, I got a few bits from them, really great! Drilling is easy, just file a flat spot to guide the drill.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  15. Thanks for the advice. Did you find that the cables were too short or were they long enough? Also what motorcycle bar did you buy?
  16. I have a vtr250 btw.

    I had two from them, one thats more or less a replacement for it, was easy but I got a little binding but was an easy fix.

    I got then their "value flat bars" which are straight. They are shorted too so dont hit the tank, I did have to get creativing wiring the cables under the speedo area. But no binding and it works well.
  17. I figured the pin is there to prevent the whole assembly from rotating when you twist the throttle, so opted to drill (centrepunch first, then small drill bit, then drill correct size.)

    I also had problems like this that were causing the throttle cable to bind when bars were turned right.
  18. I re-routed my cables and it was okay, but the new flat bars while shorter are much better imo, just in terms of fitting them in and much more hunched over position.

    I found removing the headlight to sort cables out made it much easier :).
  19. Alright thanks for the help guys. Was it just the throttle cable that needed rerouting or brake lines too?
  20. When I had the replacement bars it was throttle, when I had straight bars it was both.
    • Like Like x 1