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Replacing an indicator relay.

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by GreyBM, Aug 30, 2009.

  1. Two months ago the indicator relay in LizzyM's CB250 failed. As there were no bike shops open by the time we finished the ride I trundled down to StupidCheap Autos to see if they had anything which might work.

    They only had one unit at the time with the correct number of terminals (two) so we bought it with the idea of taking it back if it didn't work. But when we plugged it in and all was good.

    Two months later the relay has failed. I headed back down to StupidCheap and this time found they had several relays all of which look the same but which have different part numbers, which seems to indicate they may be different and not interchangeable.

    So my question is, are there differences in relays and if so is this is why the relay failed, or was it just bad luck and we got a dodgy one? I had assumed they were in essence the same and that any would do and I could save about 2/3 the cost of a Honda one. But if this isn't the case I am probably better off going with the official Honda version rather than risking replacing a relay every couple of months.
  2. As long as the part is cheap, I'd be sticking with OEM.
  3. Unless you've got a tame auto-elec you have but two choices, as far as I see it.

    New OEM Honda part or a second hand one from the wrecker.

    I'd be going for one from a wrecker 'cause the life of them is (usually)
    the life of the bike, or car.

    that said, if you can read a wiring diagram and work out the terminals
    go for a stupid cheap one, if there is one that matches.

    Vicwreck will have one.
  4. Have got a new indicator relay but now realised I stupidly forgot to note which way the old one was connected.

    I doubt it would make a difference on the old fashioned thermal operated units but not sure if it does on the solid state ones, and don't want to prematurely ruin another relay.

    There are two terminals one is marked B, the other L. I have no idea if this is some sort of standard but I can't think of anything logical. Any one able to help out?

    Alternatively any other CB250 owners out there able to look under there seat and tell me which colour wire is connected to the B and which to the L?
  5. I bought a LED indicator relay off Ebay for $12 delivered from China.

    Came in 7 days and has worked perfectly since Jan. this year.

    It's not load sensitive, so it'll flash regardless if it's filaments or LEDs.

    The unit's got 3 plugs. Two should hook up to your existing connectors, and the third one just hook up to the earth terminal on your battery.
  6. GreyBM
    terminals one is marked B, the other L. I have no idea if this i

    B = +(positive) l = Light
    therefore fit "b" to the wire that has power, "l" to the other one
  7. Thanks revhead998. Although I am still struggling with the concept of B for positive. OK I know I am dyslexic, but B??? Is this a Japanese thing or is this some sort of universal electrical code?

    I am assuming the positive side will be the switch side and the lamps go on to earth?
  8. B = Battery +
    "assuming the positive side will be the switch side and the lamps go on to earth?" correct :)
  9. I had thought of L for Lights. But then basically dismissed it when I couldn't think of anything for appropriate for B. I did think of "Bit on the Handlebar than Turns the Lights ON and Off" but then figured it wouldn't be right

    Battery didn't occur to me. Derrr!

    Thanks again revhead998.
  10. actually the "L" is for load... but in this case light sounded better..
  11. Strangely, L for Load was one of the things I did think of.

    Abd B for "Buggered if i can think of what B stands for".
  12. Bugger!!!!

    Put in the new relay and it didn't work. Instead of flashing it just made a high pitched whining noise.

    So I figure either:

    1. New relay is faulty (bit of a coincidence but maybe).

    2. New universal relay isn't as universal as it should be.

    3. There is some other inherrent fault in the circuit. Can't really see this. Firstly the circuit is about as basic as you can get and secondly if I bypass the relay by conecting the wires together when you switch the indicators on the light come on as they should except they don't flash. or am I misunderstanding something here?

    Any further suggestions/comments?
  13. Flasher units are "usually" labelled with recommended current draw IE: on a car there are two blinker bulbs at 18 to 21 watt + dash indicator at "about" 4 watt = 40 to 46 watt .
    If your bike runs 18 to 21 watt bulbs then it should be right, but I have seen vehicles running 10watt bulbs.
    If the draw is too little then the unit will illuminate but not flash or, in some cases, will flash extremely fast. Same applies to LEDs.
    On the older bi metal strip units if there was a short to earth then usually that would produce a buzzing sound (bi metal strip vibrating very quickly)
    I'm not familiar enough with bikes (other than my own) to know what your bike runs. Maybe a quick word with an auto elec may be worthwhile..
  14. Driven
    Thanks for your help, but I was after a two pin unit.

    Lights are 21W so that wasn't the issue.

    However, lashed out and invested $10 in a generic non-load sensitive thermo type unit. Slight delay in the first flash but other than that seems to be working OK. Fingers crossed this one will stay working.

    Still curious about the other unit though, and whether it was a dud or whether something about the design was the problem. I'd have thought the things were fairly much universal but I notice at SuperCheap there are quite a few different numbered units claiming to be for different types of cars all of which look pretty much identical.

    thanks for the input, guys.