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Replacement Tyres

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by Kelby, May 7, 2009.

  1. Tread wearing out and I'm looking at replacing both front and rear tyres on a VTX 1300S. The Honda Manual has suggested:
    Front: 140/80 - 17M/C 69H - Dunlop D404K
    Rear: 170/80 - 15M/C 77H - Dunlop K555J

    First shop I visited suggested a few options:
    1. Follow the manual.
    2. Forget tubed and put two rear tubeless tyres on front and rear.
    3. Put some Metzeler on - less life but greater feel and stability for cruising the mountains

    As I am only really a weekend warrior, I am prepared to pay a little for a better tyre. However, do we follow the manual, tube or tubeless etc etc ??? :? :?:

  2. Tubeless if you can. The brand is up to you
  3. The only justification I can imagine for tubeless tyres is if you get a flat, they can patch the tube. With tubless tyres, shops are often loath to 'plug' a nail hole, meaning you have to replace the tyre. That said, some shops will plug a tubeless, AND then fit a tube as 'insurance'.
  4. Not all spoked wheels can run tubeless. In fact few can.

    But don't stick to the Dunlops unless they are the best tyre for you and the bike. The chances the bike come with the best tyres for the way you ride are pretty minimal.
  5. If the object causing the flat stays in a tubeless tyre it can act as a sort of plug allowing you to top up the air and still get home. It is a risk though because if it comes out while riding the tyre will deflate straight away. With a tube in the tyre as soon as the tube is punctured it will lose air with no chance of keeping it inflated. This is part of the reason tubeless tyres are the preferred choice on bikes, cars, trucks etc. Tubeless tyres will generally run cooler because they can dissipate heat better also.
    You do need to make sure the rims are designed for the correct tyres. Tubeless rims normally have two small ridges in from the bead edge to hold the tyre in place and stop it rolling off the rim. Tube type wheels do not have these ridges
  6. Go with the Metzellers, just upgraded my bike with them and the ride and handling have improved 100%, had IRC or something on before. If you have spoked rims go with the inner tubes.
  7. Thanks for all the feedback. I have since been told that stoked rims will not hold a tubeless. The acception to rule is some BMW rims????
    With the bike still being under warantee, I've decided to stick with the Manufacturers recommendation. With the amount of Km's I am doing, they should last another 12 months. My confidence and feel for the bike will be 99% by then and I can experiment with different tyres.

    Thanks again.
    Kelby :grin: