Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Removing tyres by hand?

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by MV, May 19, 2011.

  1. Can it be done? I'm sure it can...

    If so how? I'm envisioning all sorts of dodgy levers, clamps, sweating & swearing...

  2. Actually some of these fandangled sports tyres have nice soft sidewalls and are easier by hand than the old crumbly knobbies.
    A good rubber mallet, a good Metzler trye lever and some slippy goo and your away.
    Just pull the valve out. Jump up and down on the tyre with some good boots on to break the bead. Get the lever under it and work away. Most times the it's first bit of getting it over and the last 8" suck.
    If you have an old axle even better. Put it in a vice with the bolt head just under the clamps and the wheel on that. easier to work around and less chance of rim damage.
    I'd say about three beers and half a liter of sweat.
    But then you still have to take it in to be balanced. And a decent tyre guy can do both rims and balance in under twenty minutes.
  3. Right, I'd better go buy some beer, a rubber mallet & a tyre lever.

    Thanks Bretto!
  4. I copied this from another thread I replied to. It's how I break the bead -the hardest part of changing a tyre.
    I have a highly sophisticated bead breaking tool. It consists of a 3 foot length of 1 1/2 gal pipe, and about a foot of 4"X2" Place the wheel on the dirt/grass (brake disc up) about a foot away from the rear of your car. I have a couple of dead ones in my back yard (cars), so I get to choose. Stand the length of timber vertically on the tyre, as close to the rim as possible. Place the pipe under the towbar/bumper of your chosen car, and over top of the timber. You should arrange it so you have about a 2 or 3 to 1 ratio. Then just push down on the other end of the pipe. Or bounce on it a few times if it's a really tight b@stard. You might have to try a couple of different spots but it will budge after a couple of tries.
    My KTM dirt wheels are not safety rims, and I can break the bead just with my boot heels. My Motard wheel set has safety rims and they can be a bit of a prick to break. Well, a lot actually.
    The side stand of another bike also works well for bead breaking. I've only tried that on my sports bikes 'cause the carcases are really nice and soft in the sidewalls, so come off really easy.
    As for re-seating, I don't get too concerned about it. I only have a hand pump at home, so I just whack in enough pressure to keep the rim off the road on the trip to a local servo, and then let their compressor have its way with the tyre. And yes, I have seen 100lbs on the gauge once before the tyre seated. With an almighty bang that caused me and all those at the servo to shit their pants simultaneously. Although I still managed to hold an expression of complete nonchalance during the whole procedure
    If you're not in a hurry, change your tyre on a hot day. Leave them laying in the sun for an hour or so, and it makes it a lot easier to change them. I only use 200 (or it could be 250mm) tyre levers, 'cause if you need more force than that, you're doing it wrong. You should not break out into a sweat.

    Edit -oh yeah, get your rims balanced with a valve in but no tyre on. Chances are the wheels will then be close enough to balanced up to about 200 or so when you fit the tyres. Allegedly.
  5. nope. easier than the one above.
    lay tyre down, place a good length of treated pine timber on the tyre, roll car on until bead broken, done..bead is broken! sports bike this is for...
  6. hey roarin, how come you balance the wheel without the tyre on? it doesnt take any more effort to do it with it on does it?
  7. Praised be Dan http://www.dansmc.com/tires1.htm

    I assume you're not intending to fit a tyre by hand? Don't do it! It's the worst job in the world.

    When it comes to removing the tyre, once you've got it off the wheel at the valve area the rest comes easily. Try starting somewhere else and it's an absolute pain.
  8. No it doesn't. But when you're changing tyres every 3-4 weeks on the same bike, it saves a lot of d!cking around. I like that. Each to their own.
  9. No it's not. It's easier than taking one off. It's all down to technique. If you're struggling, sweating, bending tyre levers etc -you're doing it wrong.
    Work on the ground. Chuck the old tyre down, then work on top of that. Tubeless tyres are dead simple. No tube to pinch. You should be nearly able to pull the tyre over the first bead by hand. You may need to lever the last bit over the rim. Do that with the wheel/tyre upright. Then sit it on top of the old tyre you just chucked on the ground. Push the bead down into the well in centre of the rim. Do this with your knees. At the point closest to you. Then grab your rim by the spokes, and give it a reef towards you. Push the bead over the rim gradually working away from yourself. MAKE SURE THE BEAD IS STILL SITTING HARD DOWN IN THE BOTTOM OF THE WELL WHERE YOU STARTED. Keep it pushed down with your knees. You may need to give the rim a bit of a wiggle and pull it towards you to ensure it sits right down. Then gently lever the last of the tyre over the rim. DON'T GET GREEDY. 20mm at a time. Lever right beside where the tyre crosses from inside to outside the rim. I only use 200 or 240mm tyre levers. That's plenty.
  10. yeah fair point. it is time consuming to rebalance them all the time. i have one of the sharp racing wheel balancing stands. its awesome :D
  11. Thanks for all the info guys, I've ordered some tyre levers...

    Roarin do you use any kind of lube? For the tyres, of course :)
  12. #12 Tim., May 20, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 13, 2015

    This guy makes it look easy. Balances it as well.

    I was looking at buying tyres overseas and putting them on myself, but then I realised I was too lazy, and I'll just pay the 'straya tax' and get the shop to do it.

  13. I use talc. Works well and is a lot less messy and unpleasant than liquid lubes.

    On the Ural I can just about get the tyres on with boot heels alone. The DR is a bit harder although the real pain is in seating the beads on the rear safety rim.
  14. Try this. I uploaded it, it's a safe .pdf.