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Removing and replacing the front wheel on a VTR250

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' at netrider.net.au started by Fitty, Aug 24, 2009.

  1. As some of you may know, I buckled my front wheel on a TNMR a few weeks ago. After calling wreckers in three states with no results, I'm taking the wheel to get re-rolled. They've asked for the wheel and bearings with everything else to be removed. It's a relatively simple process, but I thought I'd document because it’s a process lots of people are going to have to go through at some stage.

    I only thought to take photos when I was putting the wheel back on, so if anything is unclear, ask and I'll do my best to explain or I'll put up another photo to help explain.


    Tools required
    ======

    - Phillips head screwdriver
    - Flat head screwdriver
    - 10mm socket
    - 12mm socket
    - 19mm socket
    - 8mm allen key
    - Torque wrench

    STEP 1
    ======

    The first step is to remove the speedo cable. Simply undo the phillips head screw pictured and give the unit a bit of a wiggle to pull it off. Twist the screw back into the speedo unit so you don't lose it.

    [​IMG]


    STEP 2
    ======

    Now you have to loosen the axle nut (nut on the disc-side end of the axle) with a 19mm socket, but don't undo it completely for the moment. As you would imagine it's torqued on pretty tightly, but you should be able to loosen it with hand tools.

    ***Note – when you’re finally putting the axle nut back on, it should be torqued to 59Nm



    STEP 3
    ======

    The next job is to loosen the axle holder bolt with a 12mm socket. Don't take the bolt out, just undo it to the point that you can twist it with your fingers.

    [​IMG]

    ***Note – when you’re finally putting the axle holder bolt back on, it should be torqued to 22Nm


    Step 4
    ======

    I took the brake lever off at this point, because if you close the pads without the disc between them it'll be much harder to get the wheel back on. Use a flat head screwdriver to hold the bolt in place from the top, and undo the nut below with the socket. The lever will come out easily now, but be careful not to activate the brakes while you're taking it out. This step isn't strictly necessary, but I would recommend it if your bike is in an area other people will be using.


    STEP 5
    ======

    Now take the axle nut off the axle. You'll need to support the wheel here, and a second pair of hands might be useful. Once the axle is out, the wheel will drop down, so be ready for it. On the left side of the wheel (as you're sitting on the bike) will be the speedo unit, which will just come off, as will the side collar on the right side of the wheel. Replace the axle and do up the axle nut so you don't lose either piece.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    STEP 6
    ======

    The disc bolts can be removed with an 8mm allen key. Be careful here because, again, they're torqued on very tightly and secured with loctite. I actually stripped the head of one of the bolts when I was doing it, and believe me, it's not that much fun trying to get a bolt with a stripped head out. I ended up replacing the stock bolts with hardened steel bolts. Be careful when storing the disc because you don't want to scratch it.

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]


    STEP 7
    ======

    All that remains now is to remove the tyre. Unless you want to go to the effort yourself, the easiest way of doing this is rocking up to your nearest K-Mart Tyre and Auto and asking them to do it.


    STEP 8
    ======



    To put everything back on, just reverse the process described above. Take note of the torque settings for the axle nut and the axle holder bolt. You should use loctite on the disc bolts and then just tighten them as much as you can with an allen key.
     
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