Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Refinishing fairings ... oven bake?

Discussion in 'Modifications and Projects' at netrider.net.au started by crembz, Jun 15, 2015.

  1. Hi All,

    Has anyone used engine enamel on your fairings? I've gone a matt black which has come out good, however the can mentions baking the finish at 90degrees for one hour. I'm wondering whether the abs plastic will hold up to that temperature or whether it will warp?
  2. tricky.. the TG of ABS is around 100.. could be around 80deg, could be around 110-120... (TG = glass transition temp.. where it gets soft)

    engine enamel is designed to be put on stuff that will get hot in service.
    I would suggest not baking your fairings... or they may become dali-esque :D
    • Agree Agree x 2
  3. Putting them under some work lights will help, but not too close.

    Edit....just to help it dry quicker, not 'bake'. Especially if the outside temperature is cold. Or in Victoria's case, freezing.
  4. Yeah already got the work lights on them until they dry. I used engine enamel because it's supposed to be harder than the regular stuff. Only you need to bake it for it to go hard. Might end up sitting some 2k rattle can clear if it's still too soft.
  5. Here's how they came out without baking IMG_20150615_211653.
    • Like Like x 2
  6. which brand paint? maybe there is a TDS with curing times?
  7. Vht engine enamel is what I used.

    I had planned to do the fuel tank as well which is why I chose it. Haven't quite got there yet.
  8.  Top
  9. When I repainted my bike I just put them in the sun on a hot day, then finished them off with a hairdryer particularly around the edges.

    If you're putting clears on, they take a few weeks to properly go hard before you can polish them out.

    I wouldn't suggest putting them in your oven...if you do, ensure its on "fan bake" and you set the timer.
  10. You're not from Melbourne, are you Nicholai_ChevNicholai_Chev? We don't have many hot days. :)
  11. Trying to be optimistic Goldenberri!
    A black fairing should still warm up and get some heat into them in the 10 minutes of sunlight we do get, between the rain.
  12. It's not rain that I dislike, it's the Arctic blasts of freezing wind. And the lack of uv in what little sun we do get.
  13. I figure I might put them in front of my 6 halogen work lights for a day, with the occasional blast of the heat gun ... Might be enough. Of course no way to tell until you try scratch it up or spill some chemicals ... Which I'd rather not do.

    Anyone done 2k over enamel? Does it work?
  14. Do you have any heat lamps, in your bathroom ?
    Or an old fashioned element heater ? Bar radiator ?
  15. first, it's not exactly "enamel" but lots of paints are called "enamel" :)
    they say
    "VHT 550°F (288°C) Engine Enamels™ are a unique blend of urethane and ceramic resins", which is either just urethane resin and ceramic pigments.. or it has the fancy resin blobs with ceramic core...
    either way, it dries once the Toluene and acetone evaporate, the heat is there to coalesce the polymer blobs together (nano-sized blobs).
    without heat, the blobs stay as blobs, and the paint doesn't turn into a continuous film of urethane... (basically the heat is there to "melt" them together)

    may not be good to leave heat lamps on all day (unattended).. unless you are monitoring temps (IR temp gun?)
    ABS conducts heat slowly, so you may be able to intermittently heat the paint quite high, and not through-heat the fairing.. tricky but doable :p
    a few sites say 200F (93deg) for 1hr, but this VHT site says 20 mins http://www.vhtpaint.com/products/engineenamel/

    93deg is too close for comfort to the TG of ABS (for me) but to give accurate time/temp, you'd need to know the curve (which I can't find).. and there might be a minimum temp required for coalescence..

    lower temp, longer time, safer for fairings..
    you could always paint another bit of plastic, and cure at same time.. use that as a testing board for paint hardness?
  16. Don't forget to empty the tank before baking :D
  17. OK so I tried curing under work lights for an hour, it warped the fairings ever so slightly but what's worse, it screwed up the previous plasti welded area of the broken fairing. Should've just left it as it was!! :'(

    All in all it's not terrible, better than it was before. Most noticeable is the gap between the fairings and the brake light. Now to see how long this paint lasts for. I suspect the edges are going to chip real easy.
  18. I think I'll get the tank done by a pro, I don't fancy 2k in my garage with limited ventilation or the inevitable explosion when I leave some fuel in the tank and bake it.
  19. Isocyanate free and good respirator with proper cartridge, 2K not so bad... except when overspray gets and stays on everything! (cos still wet when it lands compared to acrylic)

    bugger about the warping..is that from the painted side expanding? heating from other side would probably make things worse...

    any idea how hot it got? too hot to touch? (~60deg)
  20. Barely too hot to touch, you could hold them without burning yourself but they were hot, think a hot steering wheel in the summer.

    They never lined up great to begin with but the gaps are worse now for sure. Might keep an eye out for a fresh set.

    I'd read about ISO free 2k, but have no idea where to buy ... Especially in a can. Do you know anywhere that's sells this stuff?