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Red chain dust on some links?

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by rcheli32, Aug 15, 2015.

  1. I've noticed some links have this red "dust" that seems to be coming out from the side of some links but not others. I'm wondering if it is an indication that the O-rings on those links are stuffed, and/or is the colour of the grease from inside the link?

    Anyone know?

    The chain has done about 15K, commuting through Melbourne winters and crappy roads, lubed weekly with Belray which is why it is white.

  2. O-rings are missing in those links. Once water gets inside it will create some rust and you will see it come out in powder form.
    I have it on a my bike now, chain is around 16,000km old, I just lube it more often to keep the rust away and squeeze more kms out of the chain.
    I would suggest to change to Motul road lube as the Belray stuff doesn't penetrate as well. Also give your chain a clean as it needs it.
  3. Lubed weekly, yet cleaned how often?
  4. I just cleaned my chain with some kero and a toothbrush. Laborious, but the OCD in me was oh-so-satisfied with the result. Some of that motul road lube went on after a rinse and a wipe, and my sprockets and chain are glistening in the winter sun.

    Definitely looks like some o rings have split off from that picture. You might find them under the front sprocket cover, last time I left my bike out in the rain for a while and then road it without adequate attention to chain that's where all the busted o rings congregated haha
  5. Thanks for confirming my suspicions about the O-rings. I can't get my head around the idea of cleaning the chain, I've done it a few times, but each time I'm worried that the brush will be doing more harm to the O-rings than good, and I don't understand the harm of having oily grime on the chain (apart from it looking ugly). I'm wondering if I damaged those O-rings when cleaning the chain with a chain brush and kero? The chain has definite loose spots now which I assume to mean some links have worn out quite a bit....

    Rather than using the Belray I put Penrite on it and the penrite definitely looks like it penetrates more and stays tacky rather than totally drying out. I'll see how Penrite copes with Melbourne's grubby wet roads.
  6. The grunge brush WILL NOT harm the chain or it's o-rings, and neither will Kerosene. I suggest cleaning every 500km's and sooner if it gets very dirty. Think of the chain as your life line. When ever i clean my chain i always wash it afterwards with a hose and wipe it down, afterwards i then ride the bike for 5-10 minutes to warm it up before applying any lube on it.

    Never had a problem with my chain.
  7. But apart from looking bad, what harm can the dirty grime on the outside of the chain links possibly do?
  8. Think grinding paste.
  9. I was, but when it's on the outside surface is doesn't touch anything. On the between links it is spaced, so the only issue I can see is on the sprockets (which look fine) or against the O-rings themselves, but they only "pivot" so I don't imagine any dirty paste causing them an issues.
  10. Oily grime is like an abrasive paste, and any mechanical movement in this situation will abrade metal surfaces. The oily part is no problem, it's the grime that does the damage. Chains are tough and the o rings are designed to exist in a volatile environment - you're not going to hurt them with a toothbrush or a grunge brush, but particles of dirt etc in the chain wax surrounding those links can be pretty damaging.
  11. Think of oiling your change like changing your oil, you don't just keep topping it up, adding clean oil to dirty oil.
  12. It would make life much easier if chain gunk just worked its way to the outside surface just stayed there or got thrown off. But an oily paste on a moving part will find its way around. Oiling a dirty chain will make bits of that paste runny and some of it will get back and keep getting back to the working surfaces.

    The effect is not immediate and dramatic, just increased wear over time.
  13. Get the Motul chain clean and lube in an aerosol spray can, one spray can for cleaning and one for lube. I spray the cleaning solvent on the chain, then wipe off with a rag and 5 mins later I oil the chain.
    Best bit is that the lube can be used on a cold chain as it comes out very thin and runny so it penetrates well, once the solvent evaporates only the oil is left behind covering your chain in nice thick oil which doesn't flick off on your wheel. Look it up its a kit pack and can be bought online from bikebiz.
    I had the Belray stuff before and my chain looked like yours as the wax built up over time and was hard to clean off without spending over half an hour on it.
    Now I do the whole procedure including cleaning in under 15 mins.
    • Like Like x 1
  14. That's it, I'm going to have to clean it up. I can't live with the guilt...:sorry:
    • Agree Agree x 1
    • Funny Funny x 1
  15. That's why i really like my auto chain oiler. Constantly drops a regulated amount of clean oil on the chain as i ride. Wet weather or bit of dirt Road just push a button and it throws more on to minimise the damage. Of course if i happen to ride dirt i always wash the chain as soon as i can to get rid of all the grit. Not sure how old my chain is I've done bit over 10000k on it previous owner put it on. Not sure how many k's he did on it. Still looks new no frozen links plenty of adjustment to go as well. Just love it. I also apply chain lube after I wash the bike just the cheap CRC one got a can from a rep once seems to work OK.
  16. This chain actually started life with a Scottoiler, however there is an occasional issue with the controllers and this one suffered from it. Hence I think it got no oil for the whole time the original owner had it, about 3000km. When I got the bike the chain was described as being very dry, the faulty oiler was identified, and the whole system removed since they can't be repaired. I was going to fit another one but was talked out of it at the time....
  17. The one i have fitted is a PRO oiler has an instruction manual the size of an encyclopedia and the way the original owner had it wired up was a bit crazy (had it powered off the tail light) so if you left the park lights on for any reason you would come back to a little puddle of oil. Not sure of the cost of them but touch wood it is working really well. The other great thing is they only recommend normal engine oil; bonus cause it is cheap think I've used at most 500ml of oil in 12 months.
  18. Using engine oil really could be an advantage. The Scottoiler was very fancy, taking into account the ambient temperature and bike movement to regulate oil, HOWEVER they had two types of oil depending on temperature, and neither really suited Melbourne. I think the crossover between the two oils was something like 20 degrees, and in Melbourne it can be freezing in the morning and roasting hot in the evening, meaning neither of their two oils was quite right.
  19. Some chain manufacturers tell you it's ok to use kerosene, others say not to. Find and read the information on your chain. As for brushing, any stiff brush will tear away at the o-rings, brand name or otherwise, if you scrub hard. I personally prefer to just use a rag. Some of the guys with the longest lasting chains, think 60,000Km life, never clean them but they lubricate every tank of fuel and after EVERY ride in the wet.
    • Informative Informative x 1
  20. This thread looks quite culty, some say lubing the chain at all is foolish nonsense. For my bike suzuki recommend cleaning every 1000ks and lubing with engine oil making note that if it it tends to rust the interval must be shortened. This suggests to me that they are only concerned that chain not be allowed rust as after a few hundred ks there won't be much oil left. I cleaned my chain with carwash the last time, was shocked how well it worked so I think the kero thing might be crap too.

    Lots of different opinions, make up your own mind.