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Rear wheel bearings

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' at netrider.net.au started by ozfz6nguy, Nov 8, 2006.

  1. Hello all

    I am told my '04 Yamaha FZ6 needs to have the rear wheel bearings replaced. I was wondering how much should I expect to pay for a dealer/workshop to replace them?



    I am not extremely mechanically minded, however I once replaced the rear brake disc on this bike so have a little experience getting the back wheel off. Is replacing the wheel bearings difficult? Should I be able to do them myself? If so, what can I expect to pay for bearings etc.

    Any help/info/pointers would be much appreciated.

    Cheers

    ozfz6nguy
     
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  2. It's kind of 50/50,

    You can do it yourself, but because you don't have a press, you risk doing damage to the new bearing and the seals.

    Chances are you will want to replace to seals anyway.

    I'd do it myself, but that's me.

    If you do take it to a mechanic, then just take the wheel. That should make it $50-75 cheaper.
     
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  3. I probably wouldn't tackle wheel bearings if you haven't replaced any sort of bearing before. However, if you can take the wheel off, take it to a mechanic and have them do it.
    I'd say $50-60 max for bearings and seals, and 30 mins labour or so.
    Be sure and take the disc off the wheel, just so there's no chance of it being damaged, and makes it easier to handle the wheel.

    Regards, Andrew.
     
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  4. Thanks for your replies.

    I just visited another mechanic to get a second opinion. He wiggled the rear wheel around and said that it felt fine. Although I am more inclined to trust the second opinion, I may just go and get a third opinion to confirm.

    The original dealer quoted me $400 for the job, while the mechanic I took it to today quoted $200 (maybe a little less if I take just the wheel in). Yes, the mechanics quote was with aftermarket bearings, but I am inclined to go that way if they do need to be replaced.

    Thanks again
     
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  5. Wheel Bearings 101

    If you can drop the wheel out your half way there

    Clean up the bearing out side dia and there will be a number sequence

    ie 6204 this is the bearing number measure the ID ie 20 mm and then the od say 54 mm

    Stroll into your local Bearing shop and nochantly say i need 2 off 6204 mate 20 id and 54 od 2 R S ( 2 off rubber shields fitted to the bearing)

    He will say no worries mate and go and get you 2 off bearings and probalbly charge you $30 to $50 bucks for the privelage.

    Note most wheel bearings fitted to japanese bikes are STANDARD bearings not specials as fitted to the headstems

    With the 2 SKF / FAG / Torrington bearings in your pocket my suggested shopping list is as follows

    400 mm of 19.05 (3/4) black bar from the local steel shop (needs to slip into existing bearing and have a clerance of say 1.5 to 3.0 mm

    While your there ask if they have a piece of steel tube say 2 mm outside dia less then the bearing you are fitting you only need about 50 mm of it
    or if you run to a large set of sockets at home you will need say a 40 mm socket

    Method take offending wheel and place two pieces of wood close to hub
    Do not sit on disc you have been warned :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll: :roll:
    Take piece of steel bar and slide through top bearing and angle it across so as it sits on an angle against inner race and tap with a hammer move it across to 180 deg opposite and tap with the hammer again

    Do not bang away on any one edge as this will cock the bearing and damage the outer journal

    Keep tapping away until bearing is out

    Remove the internal distance piece that keeps the two bearings apart and drift out other bearing Replace wheel on wooden blocks as required

    Check for corrosion on the seats of the bearings use a piece of scrotch bright pad to clean up corrosion

    Take a new bearing out of its packet and place in the apperture there is no need to worry about rotation issues and using your short piece of tube / socket tap in the new bearing it will sound home when punched down as the sound becomes solid not hollow
    :cool:

    Next roll over the wheel and working from the top replace your distance piece in the center of the wheel and drift in the second bearing.

    Place back in bike and think about scheduling your wheel bearing change for the front as you now have the neccesary skills and tools

    Now Some clarification points

    I if you had asked the bearing guy for 2 Z S he would have handed you bearings fitted with steel shields these are better for race bikes as there is less drag on the seal but do not like operatring in water

    If the bearings are corroded in there are two methods you can use

    1 use a dyna bolt inserted into the bearing and tightened up so as to distort the ends and hammer / slide hammer the bearings out
    but its pretty brutal :evil:

    2 my method is to remove the seal rubber and using a screwdriver destroy the inner cage and remove the ball bearings and inner track clean up the grease and then weld a bead around the inner track a couple of tacks will do it it causes the outer race to retract and fall out.

    Good luck so with the total expense now about 50 to 55 bucks for the materials you can also fit in a oil change plugs and front wheel bearings for the cost of one set of wheel bearings changed over by a dealer
     
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