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Rear shocks

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by powinc1, Nov 21, 2014.

  1. How do I know if my rear shocks are working ok? I'm riding an 06 America, which has Ikon 7610 on the back, but they seem too harsh?

    Is there a method for determining whether the shocks are still working or maybe I need softer springs?
  2. It sounds like they're probably working, but the valving hasn't been set up properly if they're harsh. Also, believe it or not, it's often possible to soften the ride by using stiffer springs, and softening a certain area of the compression damping characteristics. Have a read of Racetech's suspension bible. It's an eye-opener! (y)
  3. I'd get your mechanic to have a look at the preload on the springs: it sounds to me like the bike had a heavier rider in an earlier life
  4. The Ikon Shocks do have a adjustment at the top of the shock, under the dust cap. But it's already set on 1, the softest setting.
  5. In that case you need a softer set of springs

  6. Errr... Unlikely... You might like to read the Racetech suspension bible too...

    Back to the OP...

    From the Ikon website:

    7610 Series Shock Absorbers

    for Bikes with conventional suspension

    4 position externally adjustable rebound with just a finger touch
    Spring seat adjustable in three positions
    Progressive Spring
    Chrome finished body

    So, it seems that the adjuster is for rebound. This being said, that type of shock usually doesn't separate the compression and rebound bleeds (it would only have one bleed for both), so it will probably adjust compression damping, but certainly not in the suspension speed region that you need.

    You need high speed compression to be reduced (high speed as in high suspension speed, not high road speed). With that shock, you're not going to be able to adjust high speed compression without pulling it apart and re-valving it, which is a job for a suspension technician.
    • Agree Agree x 1
  7. I took the bike to the my mechanic and he had me sit on it and see how much compression was going on? He did say a softer spring may help? But in the mean time he adjusted the rebound up from 1 to 3 on top of the shock and compressed the spring a little bit at the bottom.

    This seemed not to do much, until I checked the back tyre pressure at it was close to 40 psi. I think 35-37 psi is normal for this sort of tyre, so I let some air out and pumped it up to 30 psi only and this seemed to help the comfort levels.

    But is 30 psi too low?
  8. 30 psi may induce some funny handling and will attract more punctures. Start at 35 and reduce a couple of psi at a time

    As to preload, reducing it will actually make it feel more stiff. This seems counter-intuitive, but what you are doing is reducing the "air gap" in the shock and this makes a faster rising rate shock.

    Try increasing the preload instead. This increases the air gap and thus reduces the air pressure inside the shock and thus makes it softer. It also gives it a slower rising rate.
  9. Find yourself a pair of those finger nail clippers,lost the plot have I,read on.Find a spot with the biggest gap in the spring on the shock and connect a cable tie to the shock shaft and using the finger nail clippers cut excess off as short as possible.Push the tie down the shaft to the bottom with the rear wheel off the ground.Now take it off the stand and sit on the bike without bouncing to much.
    Get off and have a look at how much travel you have used,it should be about 1/3 of the available travel.Do the same on a bumpy test track and see if your using most of what is available.Increase the shock preload to get to where you want to be.If you weigh approx 75 to 95kg the stand spring should be ok.At first I was using setting no1 for damping and it would wollow a lot.At no3 it was a lot better.
    I added a 15mm longer top section suppled by Icon to speed up the steering and while doing this the shock teck upped the oil wt to 10wt.After this oil change I was back to No 1
    I am a heavy weight bloke who pushes on a bit so that might not suit you.
    One useful tip with carb jetting and suspension setting is don't make tiny changes that are really
    hard to pick.
    So try damping No 4,the hardest and see what its like and then gradually go up while feeling the difference.
  10. I've tried compressing the spring all the way up and it was unbearable on a smooth road. And I've adjusted the damping with little or no effect. So I think Danny is right. I need different valving or maybe different wt oil to reduce the velocity my rear shocks move at.
    • Like Like x 1
  11. yep, seems like you are outside any work-around