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rear preload alters fornt grip

Discussion in 'New Riders and Riding Tips' started by OldBellHelmet, Feb 9, 2009.

  1. as any of you who may have ridden or own an er6 may know the fornt end is a bit on the firm side and the bike tends to sit at the top of the travel during regular riding. issue here is that it can get a bit skippy under acceleration. this is fine in a straight line but with a bit of a bend can make times somewhat interesting. uphill turns under power become much slower.. im looking at getting some caps for the top of the forks that allow you to adjust pre-load to drop it a touch. thing is i heard that by raising the rear a few steps it will weight up the front and drop the height a little. went one up yesterday and found that the skip was reduced a little.not being the greatest when it comes to bike suspension does anyone know that effect that rasing the rear will have on the front.. have heard it will reduce the skipping as mentioned but i would think that the extra load on the front will make it fight back harder ?.
    cant afford new springs at the moment and the er6 has a short travel.

  2. Rasing the rear has a similar effect to dropping the front (backing off preload at the front)

    and yes it will make the front more planted up to a point.

    Also try experimenting with tyre pressures.
  3. thanks.. and yes prob wrong forum.. have dropped the front pressure before but then she feels a little sloppy..
  4. I have an er6 and don't think I have that problem. Maybe I don't go as hard. But the springs are stiff.

    Are you skipping the front or rear? There's a few corners where I get the rear skipping but they are a bit bumpy.

    I've found it to be sensitive to both tyre type and tyre pressure.
  5. its the front. back seems ok. on a smooth rd around corners at pace its ok.. this is more your urban assault type riding. peak hour sh!ts me so i try to get it over and done with asap.. maybe i should just go slower.what tyres you running ?. im still on the stockers
  6. this would suggest you need more front damping. If non-adjustable, then try some heavier weight oil. It's not a hard job.
  7. this topic needs FLUX'S input, x=c+4x2=d, will give u the perfect ratio :grin:
  8. i figure some new front oil and these pre-load caps will do the job. now its just a case of getting it done..
  9. forget about the caps until you are sure the rear pre-load changes and new fork oil are not going to fix the problem.

    I see people make a lot of assumption with suspension and end up forking out money they don't need too.

    Work through it one step at a time. Try more rear preload. Then heavier fork oil and maybe even dropping the tripple clamps up to 5mm (try 2mm first).
  10. Your riding to the point of bunnyhopping wheels in peak hour? :shock: ........ :LOL:
  11. right o. and those caps cost a packet anyway
  12. i live in sydney. do i need to explain :wink:
  13. got a dunlop roadsmart on the front and a gpr100 on the rear (cause there was a package deal on this pair). the oem tyres were not good.
  14. nah there not the best but they aren't the issue at this point. pushed the pre-load up tonight so will prob ride to work tomorrow and report back
  15. Set your preload "correctly" for the rear shock on your bike per the standard set up practice (should be around 25mm diff between on and off the bike on the rear, I believe...it may not be set right...if that does'nt fix it, then feel free to go up one more click - beyond that you will be out of spec and it's best to then look at the front forks, I reckon...or if you go up all the way and your rear is still not in spec, then you need to change yourrearshock to something heavier to match your weight....just upping the preload on the rear without first setting it to spec is a bit of a waste of time - it might "feel" better, but you won't have a method to yardstick your adjustments.

  16. +1 to Raven.

    Changing the rear preload just moves the suspension within its stroke. Sag is important to set correctly to ensure that the suspension can both compress AND extend when necessary. For the same reason, setting the front sag is important.

    If your front sag can't be set correctly (it's topped out), then when you accelerate, the rear will squat and the front will raise. As the suspension is at the top of its stroke, it can't extend and the wheel no longer contacts the ground.

    If the rear suspension is set incorrectly (you've added more preload than ideal), you'll have the same issues with the back of the bike. Hence, as Raven says, set the sag correctly. If you can't set the sag (about 30% of the stroke), then you will always be chasing your tail.

    Given that the ER6 has basic suspension, you can't adjust the compression which would be another solution to the problem.

    As for the front suspension, if you're topped out, then changing fork oil won't have the desired effect. Changing the oil will modify the damping, but I don't think you have a damping issue. Also remember that with damping rod forks the only things you can change are the spring weight and oil. The limiting factor with these forks is that the oil has to pass through wholes in the damping rod and the damping effect is not linear.

    Are the caps you refer to 'Emulators'? If so, emulators are not the solution to all the problems you have.
  17. No idea, but SPOTTED! :p I saw you yesterday on old pac - passed you in the 60 section where everyone sits exactly on the limit when you were behind a bunch of others.
  18. well done phiz !!!!!!! you get a wollie pop.
    as far as the setup goes. i wouldnt mind different oil up front to alter the damping but i need to get it to sit right first. i didnt ride in today after upping the rear pre-load. i now have it one step up from where it should be (im 100kgs) and the sag looks right. still plenty of travel. it also dropped the front a smidge but not enough i think. might just have to bite the bullet for new springs.
    the caps i speak of you can fit to the top of the fork to allow preload to be altered. not emulators. a set of srings will cost about the same.
  19. I didn't know the ER6 wasn't adjustable for preload.

    The springs would be the best solution. It shouldn't cost that much and if you take it to a suspension specialist, they can make it as good as it's ever going to be.

    Adding rear preload isn't really dropping the front. You end up putting more weight on the front wheel, but if the front is the problem (topped out) then you still get the same issue with the front losing touch with the road.

    Good luck!
  20. maybe it was just wishful thinking but i thought the front dropped a touch.. like about 5mm. the rear is adjustable for pre-load and other than that the only other adjustment is dependant on the amount of beer you drink. i got no hassles in putting the springs in. got any recommendations for someone in sydney.