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Re-Painting Exhaust

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' at netrider.net.au started by pokolbinguy, Apr 30, 2008.

  1. G'day All,

    I had a search through the forum using the "search" function but didn't turn up any results so....

    I want to know is it feasible to re-paint the exhaust of my bike myself? If so, how?, and what with? (I want it black again.... should make the bike look like new again).

    If not...what should it cost to have an average size (its an Across) exhaust painted by a panel beater? and is it worth it??

    Anyway nay help would be greatly appreciated and sorry if this has been brought up before (I would expect so) but I couldnt find anything using the search function.

    Cheers, Pok
  2. I'd presume you just use a heat proof paint. Some are more "heat proof" than others. Check out autobarn or supercheap for cans and ask what will last longer.

    I also remember someone mentioning something to do with BBQ paint once (was it pot black or something?) so you may want to look into that too...
  3. Heat proof won't do, you need to get the really high temp "flame proof" paint which is designed for exhaust manifolds.
    Definitely doable though. Important things are to get rid of all rust currently on the headers first and to remember that flame proof paint needs to get to a certain temp before it's fully cured.
  4. Haha.


    I have done this myself as well (black exhaust) talk about helping each other out. Was quite easy, just got some wet n dry sandpaper (or whatever the corect terminology is for that stuff) rubbed it all back to bare metal - took about an hour of hard yakka I suppose - I went right down to where the pipes disappear under the fairing. Got some exhaust/manifold matt black paint (from supercheap auto about $15) and some masking tape. Taped up practically the whole bike lol to be safe and applied about 6 coats (10 mins between coats). In hindsight, I would have applied a lot more coats to give it a really thick layer of paint.

    The manifold paint is self priming and will set in about half hour to be touch dry, but will properly harden when heat is applied (i.e. take the Across for a spin). Took up the best part of an afternoon I suppose, but REALLY easy to do and it looks sensational compared to scrape marks and rust!!
  5. If you like the old skool look you could always use exhaust tape??
  6. Seriously, heat proof paint wont do eh? I've seen 1800 degree c Heat proof and that wont do? Flame proof, heat proof - its all just a name and it depends on its rating.

    I'd still be looking into the stove black, pot black or whatever its called, paint.
  7. Actually I was trying to point out the difference between "heat proof" engine enamel (good for 550F) and "flame proof" enamel designed specifically for things like exhaust manifolds (and good for 1500F).

    As for 1800 degree C paint - not going to happen. And even if it's 1800F there's no real advantage, anything over 1300F is pointless.

    Stove paint typically is only good for around 1000F. So no real advantage over proper exhaust manifold paint other than the fact it may be cheaper.
  8. What you want to do is go get the flame proof or whatever paint it doesn't matter just get the highest rated paint avaliable.

    take exhaust off;

    now as has been suggested sand that exhaust till it has no rust on it.

    now get some methanol out and clean it up, wipe off with a high fibre cloth, and wait for it to dry (30min)

    now get your paint out and do a fine coat, make sure your spraying from the suggested distance, now let bake in the sun for about 45min, then repeat as many layers as you want, then leave to bake in the sun.

    put back on bike and let the bike idle, with occasional revs, to heat the exhaust up (bake some more), have a industrial or pedastal fan pointed at your radiator so your engine doesnt overheat.

    That should be all thats required, or if your real lazy get them ceramic coated, that want come off.
  9. I have used VHT Flame Proof spray paint and I thoroughly recommend it.
    Follow the instructions on teh can TO THE LETTER, and you will have no problems.
    I have pointed a propane torch at this stuff for 5 mins and it jsut sits there laughing, it is good shit.

    Regards, Andrew.
  10. +1 We used to use that on race engines a few years back. Did it's job well.
  11. 1) Remove exhaust

    2) Sand paper until surface is all smooth and all even (no pumps/dints)

    3) Wash with luke-warm soapy water

    4) Apply "Grease and Grime Remover" (Approx $10 for a spray can)

    5) Apply THIN layers of heat proof paint leave for 15 minutes before respraying.

    6) After 5 coats of paint leave for 6 hours.

    7) LIGHTLEY sand with smooth and wet sandpaper.

    8) Apply a further 2 or 3 coats of paint.

    9) Leave overnight then remount exhaust.

    This is what I did and I promise you if you follow those steps you will get the best results. My motto is "If your gonna do something DO IT RIGHT!"

    Good luck :)
  12. Should have searched for this thread first instead of making one. This thread has all the information I require. Will get the flame proof paint typhoon recommended and follow the steps boro_baba has put up.