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Rattling sound when under load in high gear

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by celinou, Feb 24, 2013.

  1. I need some help!

    My R1 has been doing this rattling sound when under load in a high gear.

    Went to a mechanic, they said might be the blade, the tensioner or the chain but can't be sure. Was told to buy a new cam tensioner (worth $250 + labour cost) and to come back for install and hope for best. :confused: :shock:

    Went to a second mechanic, was told it was not any of the above but that it will cost lots of $$$$ to find out what is wrong as they will need to take the bike apart.

    I just feel like I'm being played around but mechanics.. maybe because I am a chick but is there any way I can find out what is actually causing the noise what what is wrong? :banghead:

    Anyone can point me to a good mechanic who will not rip me off but be helpful? :cautious: I live in Southbank and don't mind riding to a good mechanic and I don't mind forking the money for a new part but not on a guess and hope for the best!
  2. I would suspect chain, have you checked its tension?

    Other wise call Pete at Everything Two Wheels in Fitzroy
    • Like Like x 1
  3. Rattle in a high gear, which generally means a high load could also point to;
    Running lean and pinging or timing is too far advanced causing pre-ignition and pinging.

    Get an experienced friend to ride it for thier opinion.
    • Like Like x 2
  4. Thanks cjvfr. That's where I went and was told to hope for the best. I don't doubt that he's awesome and would most likely take my bike for service there but I'm not comfortable with "hope for the best" when I'm forking $$$ on parts and labour.

    Anyone else you can recommend?
  5. This is the first thing I thought. You should get it checked first, and it's hopefully the easiest and cheapest fix.

    The R1 runs a high compression ratio, so it might (?) need premium fuel - are you using premium or 91 RON?

    Is it a regular, evenly spaced rattle or is it irregular?

    I would be surprised if Pete hasn't checked ignition and fuelling but if not, maybe get him or someone to do it before going further?
    • Like Like x 2
  6. #7 celinou, Feb 25, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 13, 2014
    I always use premium fuel with both my bikes. The guys at Dynobikes suggested to chuck it on the dyno to check the ignition and fuelling. Are those guys good? Else I would give Pete a call tomorrow.

    It's a reasonably regular rattle. Almost sounds like the engine is about to choke (but more like a clunking sound) but doesn't, then revs up as normal...
  7. Hmmm. don't like that 'clunking' description...
    Pre-ignition (pinging) is a fairly lightweight. higher pitched regular kind of rattle, not so much a 'clunk'. Timing chain and tensioner is irregular and also a light rattle.

    Dynobike know their stuff but they ain't cheap. Your call I'm afraid. Ultimately you need an experienced ear to hear it for themselves. Or two.
  8. Is the noise only there below 4000rpm & only under load and goes away once the revs increase?

    I've ridden a few R1's that appear to have a bad shudder /grumble /rattle when you try to open the throttle up at low rpm. Also other bikes such as the DL/sv1000 do the same thing. I have put it down to the engine design, being large bore and short stroke, which do not like to be loaded up at low rpm.

    Perhapps all you may need to do is change your riding style eg. drop it down a gear to keep the revs up, or gradually opening the throttle at low rpm & not giving excessive throttle until revs are above 4000.
  9. #10 Ljiljan, Feb 26, 2013
    Last edited: Feb 26, 2013
    2008 R1 has a regular crank. And given both mechanics seemed to notice something wrong, I'd go with there being something actually wrong.
  10. Get a louder exhaust and the noise will go away
    • Like Like x 1
  11. This is pretty much spot on! Getting the bike checked out anyway :)
  12. Hold on , let's confirm that first. Celinou, did either mechanic actually HEAR the rattle or did you just describe it to them?
  13. #14 VTRAffair, Feb 26, 2013
    Last edited by a moderator: Aug 13, 2014
    Yeah, hooooooold your horses just a sec before you spend any money.

    If you are doing low speed top gear with a fist full of throttle, your bike is going to rattle and clunk in protest.
    I can't attest to the inline 4's, hopefully here someone can shed some light, but definitely with a v-twin, low rpms with high load makes the whole bike shudder and jump, rattle and bang. It hates it.

    The engine is not designed to rev that slowly under those levels of load, and much prefers a shorter gear, allowing it to rev more freely. Now in a V-twin, that is anywhere below 3000 rpm, but the bike only revs to 10,000. Your R1 probably revs to what, 12, 13k rpm? More? At a guess, I would say try cruising around at about 5500rpm and above, and see if this fixes your problem?

    Any I4 or R1 riders wanna shed some light on your cruising altitudes?

    also a quick google show most r1 riders are cruising at or upwards of about 6k rpm.
    • Like Like x 1
  14. the other thing is, did this just start happening?
    is it something you have noticed getting worse or louder?
    or is it something that has always happened?

    the reason i ask is that most engines make an odd noise when they are struggling, and from what ive heard, are similar but different depending on the engine.

    just something to consider

    Edit... Yeah, what ^he said :)
    • Like Like x 1
  15. It's far more a function of firing angle and regularity than rev range. Within 720 degrees a 90 v-twin will fire at 0 and again at 450 and that's it, making it jerky before inertia starts to become the primary piston force. A regular i4 will fire every 180 degrees, giving a much more smooth and constant power output from lower Rpm.

    But yes, make sure someone actually hears it before they open it up
  16. Yeah, fair enough, I'm only going by what I know from my Firestorm, which I'm pretty sure is 270 and 450, giving a nice even cadence, not that lumpy harley type stutter. But, certainly the gaps in between pulses would be far less noticeable on a regularly timed I4, but I'm sure it would still be present. Even my little corolla used to do it if you loaded the wrong gear.
  17. Yeh. The difference is that's the gap rather than the firing angle so it amounts to the same thing. From 450 to 720 is 270.
  18. Ahh... So what is it in a Harley then to make them sound like that? Something like a 90' gap or what?
  19. 800cc swept area per piston, only two pistons, straight pipes.

    Harley v is narrower so firing order will be more even. 90 degree twins have better balance though, so less vibration.