Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

radiator nightmare on SV650S 2000 model.

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by ronin11, Nov 6, 2008.

  1. okay, so i got home from the bike expo on sunday, and the bike started leaking coolant.. checked it out, and it was a split radiator. i took the rad. off the bike on tuesday, and dropped it off at a radiotor shop this morning to see if it could be repaired. when i called him at lunch time, he tells me the radiator has eaten itself from the inside out, was leaking in several spots and was unable to be repaired. ive since ordered myself a new one to be delivered, no matter what the old rad. is fecked.

    problem is this, the mech said he thought it was either caused by mixing coolant types, that have not mixed well, or maybe been mixed with water that has caused it, or electrolysis, caused by a bad earth somewhere. when i was taking the rad. off, i did notice a bit of white/grey coloured residue in the pipework, and on the rad cap, and figured it just needed a system flush, which i will do when i put the new rad on on saturday.

    now the bike is 2000 model SV650S, with less than 30,000Ks on it, as as far as i know the previous owner took good care of it, as have i. its spent a fair amount of time sitting around in the last 6 months due to me being injured, but i was starting it frequently to avoid a flat battery and other related issues.
    anyone know the best way to diagnose this electrolysis thing, and best way/ most obvious place to find the bad earth?
    any other idea what could have caused the rad to eat itself from the inside, and how i go about fixing it?

    i need the bike back on the road ASAP, as the car has busted the radiator as well, and should be off the road too. the bike was worse, and i thought i knew exactly what was wrong with it so figured to fix that first... PLEASE HELP!

  2. I can only guess that the radiator coolant was not changed regularly. I do mine every year. The coolant actually turns acidic or alkyline (not sure which) after a certain amount of time and I don't trust motorcycle dealers/mechanics. So I change it myself. With distilled/demineralised water and a silicate free coolant concentrate. Along with a brake fluid flush. Not hard and if ya do it yourself you KNOW that it's done.
    No real way to check for poor earths other than to check out your wiring diagram and undo ALL the earths you can find, emery them and assemble with some electrical grease.
  3. Hrrrm, point taken. Must pencil in a flush at some stage.
  4. cheers for the fast response roarin... much appreciated mate.
    please explain the brake fluid flush?

    port.. bring the stuff man. ill be doing mine in saturday, maybe do them bth at the same time.
  5. Brake fluid is hygroscopic (sp?), which means that it absorbs moisture. Your brakes slow you down by creating friction between the pads and rotors. That heat is transferred to the brake fluid indirectly.

    The water absorbed by the brake fluid boils at a lower temperature than brake fluid, and when that occurs, the water turns to gas. That gas is more easily compressed than a liquid, so it causes a loss of feeling and braking capability.

    Manufacturer recommendations is for a brake fluid flush every twelve months. If you open a bottle of brake fluid, that should be used up within 12 months, as it has the potential to have absorbed moisture from the air.
  6. Beaut thread.
  7. I probably should. I haven't done it since I bought it 18 months ago. Might pickup some coolant Saturday morning.

    I have brake fluid, we can do your brakes as well. Just need a clear tube from bunnings. Best pickup some meat for the BBQ whilst down the street ;)
  8. agreed. real talk and not about bashing some guy cause he did a stoppie on your grandmas cats head and my valves are stuck up his ass.

    when it gets hot... (now) change your coolant.. flush the thing properly and dont leave any air in there.
    when you do one you do the other, as in brakes.. 1/2 litre will do most bikes so you dont have much left over. as said leaving it around is bad news. makes a great weed killer.
    some radiator caps will let a few drops out from time to time..
  9. Now see... this is why I prefer air cooled bikes :twisted:
  10. I thought most radiator fluid was a corrosion inhibitor/anti-freeze and this would be enough to prevent corrosion (assuming it was changed at the correct intervals).

    I have to run the SV race bike without any additives as glycol based substances are banned for safety reasons. I am not sure what alternatives there are, but if any coloured substances are seen, they'll make you drain ans refill.
  11. In your case cejay, you are better off running demineralised water. Coolant that is past it's use by date is more corrosive than pure water.
  12. Just go and buy a brand new bottle of brake fluid suitable for your bike. DOT 4 at a guess but check whats printed on the top of your master cylinder reservoirs. As an aside, Castrol Response is DOT 5.1 but is compatible with DOT 3 & 4 systems. For the sake of 10 bucks buy one of those one man brake bleeding kits. Pop the top off your brake reservoirs, slip the brake bleeding hose onto the bleed nipple on the caliper, pop the end of the hose into a container of some sort, crack the nipple and pump away. As the level in the reservoir drops keep topping up the level. Don't let the master cylinder suck in any air. Bonus points if you buy a different coloured brake fluid as you will see when the calipers/lines are flushed. Repeat for all calipers front and back. You will now have brakes that WILL work better than previously as mentioned by mekros.
  13. Before you start pumping as mentioned above, if you use a syringe to almost empty the reservoir and then top it up with new fluid, you save yourself having to pump the fluid in the reservoir through.

    Just make sure you don't take out so much you expose the top of the line and let air in.

    Sounds like a spanner night project if you don't sort it Satrday.
  14. I'm happy to say both bikes went back together with minimal of left over parts. Special thanks to our good international friend Boris for helping throughout the day farkin.
  15. Stupid q time

    What happens if you let air into it? i.e. if you want to make sure all the old brake fluid is gone. Will I be bleeding it for a long time?
  16. Yah just means that you will have to pump for a longer time to get rid of the air, you also waste a lot of fluid. Also when done you will have that little niggle in the back on the mind asking if you bled all the air out!
  17. +1

    But the set up on some bikes really seems hard to get the air out, so you could be giving yourself a lot of uneccessary hassle..

    If you do something like replace your lines you don't have an option you're going to get air in, but if you are just changing fluid, much more betterer not to let air in in the first place.
  18. Very informative thread, but
    I don't understand why I should flush my radiator with brake fluid, its kind of expensive. By the way, I ride a GS500. :grin:
  19. first off, thanks for all the great responses.

    cejay, funny you say that most bike use only additive and antifreeze, as thats exactly what i got when i purchased last saturday. did the system flush ETC, spent an hour and a 1/2 straightening out the bent fins on the radiator i paid $300 for second hand.. put it all together and got the bike up and running fine, so thanks heaps to everyone. i'll be draining and re-flushing it over the xmas period just to make sure i got it all, and ill do the brake system then as well.

    as well as the clutch/cable. now it seems thats on the way out :roll:
    if its got tits or tyres, its only going to be problems. rings so true sometimes doesnt it lol.
  20. :rofl:

    Danny mate, for that laugh, I owe ya a beer bro. :LOL: