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R1 starting issue

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by n3d_15, Jul 15, 2008.

  1. Hey guys, ill cut a long story short.

    Bought an R1 3 weeks ago, at yass, all was good rode it back to sydney, it did the 260'ks back to sydney without any issues.

    Rode the bike to work and around as i travel over sydney for work every day, for a week, the bike started ok every day.

    now after riding it for a week, I went up the coast from friday night till sunday morning. When i got home and went to start the bike, it turned over sooo slowly it just couldnt start. So i got my dad to give me a small push and dropped it in 2nd and that was it, it was ok. I let it warm up and then rode to a mates place. Left the bike for 3 hours got back on it started and i went home.

    When monday came around, went to start the bike and it just couldnt crank over. So i got my brother to give me a push. now after i got to work and turned the bike off and started again, it turned over but slowly and started. So i got my mate to get me a new battery and bring it to me at my work. Thank got a work on top of an Auto sparkys. We charged the new battery and tried it and no luck. So i thought the battery was dud. Got a new battery and same thing.

    At the stage i had the shit and just connected the posotive of the battery to the output terminal of the starter relay to bypass the relay to check that it wasnt the relay, it did the same thing, just barley cranked.

    I went that step furher and pull the bike down and found that the positive terminal on the starter was sooooo rusty it was crazy. I cleaned both the terminal and the lead. and hoped to god that was the issue. But no the same thing happened, cranked over very very slow.

    Pulled out the started, took it apart, and let me dad take it to his work to get the amature machined. everything looked ok inside but 1 brush was stuck in and not pushing on the ameture. I was sus of this. Put it all back to gether perperly and powered it from the postive terminal of the starter to the battery. and the same thing.

    Now my question is that it has to be the starter right??? And just to answer any up comming questions, the teeth on the starter were in perfect condition, no sign of internal wear.

    If anyone has any advise or could help it would be greatly appriciated. its a 2000 model btw.
  2. Sounds like it, but it could also be a bad earth or
    dud cables or connectors (though it sounds like you checked
    most of those pretty well). You didn't cheap out on the battery did you?

    Also get a multimeter and look for other things (eg shortcircuit)
    that might be draining the battery.
  3. its impossible that its the battery, ive even hooked the battery stright to the starter, no other cables just a jumper lead to the positive and the gound to the housing, and i get the same thing.

    After i put it all back in and tryed it it would barley crank over. So i took the battery and jumped it off that ( and for all those that are worried about me doing that dont be, it was a car battery stright to the start, nothing to do with the running gear of the bike.) and after i jumped it off the car battery it barley turned over.
  4. Well then if you used a big car battery which was known to be good,
    and your jumper leads had a good connection, then
    it's not the leads or the battery.
    So it's probably the starter. The only other thing I can think
    of is some sort of huge friction inside the engine, and you probably
    would find it almost impossible to push start in that case.
  5. well yea the only two things it could be is the starter itself, which i think it is, or where the starter engages into, im not sure on the R1 how it works because unlike a car starter it doesnt jump out and grab its constantly in, wether theres a clutch system there or something, but it push starts fine, i rode it last night to test it, it screams.
  6. I still wouldn't discount the battery, alternator or the regulator. Even car batteries can struggle through jumper leads if they are not in a running car when you try to start the bike.

    Jump start the bike and put a volt meter across the battery terminals. it should read over 14V. Rev the bike a bit and compare.
  7. The jumper leads can handle as much current as the leads currently going to the starter motor on the bike. If it helps when the starter is out of the bike it does spin up but there is no real kway of testing how much torque it has unless a load is applied, ie my R1's engine. All i really would need is a leand of a new started lol just to see if thats it, unfortunatally i cant see that happening any time soon.
  8. it's the length of the lumper leads and the alligator clamps that kills you. Even if the wire area is generous.
  9. i was able to jump my cbr250r off my R1 battery with the same jumper leads. Do you suggest i connect the car battery to the starter while ive got my dads car running??
  10. I'd do that before ruling out the battery etc.
  11. ok, ill give it a go when i get home, i wish i could be 100% that its the start, if so i would go and buy a new one right now. I just really want to start riding it again, when i took it for a test ride, it went great.
  12. If it is the starter motor look into getting it reconditioned. There are places that do it. It may not even need a re-wind, just a clean up, bearings and brushes.

    Keep in mind it may not be the starter itself, but the sprag clutch binding or similar.
  13. yea i can get it reconditioned for nothing at all, i work on top of an auto electricans and know them well. Ive already cleaned up the starter and put it back in. Are there any tests that i can run to see if its the sprag clutch ????
  14. good question. I would look at it whilst the bike was apart. Play with it.

    You might be able to look at the current draw on the start motor. If it's drawing full current, but not turning over I'd be looking for a mechanical failure.

    One thing at a time however. Try jumping of a vehicle that is running.
  15. hey guys, powered the starter off my dads car while it was going, and it barley turned over, then did a current draw, it went past the multimeters 20amps and then died completely. We then put in my old battery and it fired ip stright away lol :S:S
  16. So it's an intermittent mechanical problem or bad terminals (most likely).
  17. thanks for all your help guys :)