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Quick little question on chain adjustment

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by Robb0, Apr 14, 2007.

  1. Hey Guys

    Just quick question says in my manual when I do the axle bolts back up I need to do them up with a torque rench to a set torque. Is it really needed? Cause I dont own one and all I wanna do is adjust my chain.

  2. Ive never used one, I dare say many people haven't used one either
  3. Go nerd style, work out how much weight to push at the end of your spanner/ratchet/etc, say 20cm tool(easy numbers), and you need 2.0kg/m torque, so over 20cm, you need 10kg.

    Finger tighten, grab your spanner, tighten till firm, but not jammed, nuff said.
  4. I have never ever seen anyone use a torque wrench to do up the axle after adjusting the chain.

    Damn tight is all it needs, not exact tightness.
  5. Which bike? HD somtimes need it
  6. its a GPX 250 but doesnt matter I'll adjust it maybe next week with out the torque wrench. If I really wanna be worried my dad can borrow one from his work.

    Thanks for help guys you've been great.

  7. i got a gpx250 atm, just get it tight as the tool you have will go easy, then give it a good hard tweek and you should be good, dont forget to put they pin back in (assuming you have one) and do try to avoid useing a shifter :p
  8. Should I buy a new pin each time I adjust? I'm more then happy to use the old pin if posssible.

    Think I might leave the chain adjustment till next weekend now. I'll be going on the ride with the newbies tomorrow :) Think the chain isnt too bad I think. hehe....
  9. ALWAYS use new split pins. They fatigue when bent. You can buy packs of them at any spare parts store.
    Split pins are a critical item, they are the last line of defence when a bolt or nut loosens off and teh pin keeps components together till you can pull over and change your undies.

    Regards, Andrew.
  10. The settings are in place to ensure that the bolt will not come undone
    The specifications on the engine are for when the enginge is heated up and expands the bolts will not come undone

    These service guides are for the guidance of people like me who are not mechanincs.I do all my service work and all the major repairs except the crack shaft rebuild

    I torque all the bolts to the specified amount in the service manual as
    the people who wrote the book abour my ZX9R know a shit load more about it than I do
  11. Just remember how tight it was when you undid it and put it back on that tight. You'll be fine. :)

    Btw, don't over tighten like I did last weekend. I don't even know how I did it, but I tightened it then thought "oops, a bit much". Went to un-tighten and couldn't budge it. WD-40 and the full weight of my foot succeeded in bending my axle wrench and I ended up in Mitre 10 buying the biggest fcuk off socket wrench they had and a big arse socket to match. Succeeded in undoing it, then put it back tight and "back" to the nearest split pin hole (against to "continue to the next hole theory I've used on all previous bikes). :oops: :? :LOL: 8-[
  12. split-pins?? they are for wimps - i use duct tape :p :p

    (the use of duct tape in place of a split pin could result in harm or death to the operator of the bike or any person/s in the vicinity should the nut come undone)

    as far as torque goes, i use seany's new found method of "do it up 'til its tight, and then a little back to the nearest hole". i only really use the torque wrench for headbolts, or other main-seal-type-bolts :)
  13. I can't condone the use of duct tape for this purpose and keep a healthy supply of split pins in the shed but I agree 100% that a torque wrench is used when it actually matters, not when split pin holes determine the outcome anyway. :)