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QUICK first oil change on a new bike.....must do!!

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' at netrider.net.au started by jeffatav, Aug 28, 2007.

  1. I have just got a new Hoda CB900 hornet and was advised to change the oil after 100-200 kms

    I did the oil change and from the moment it started draining, I stared in amazement how much sh!t came flowing out.

    Black as night and with "particles" throughout and multi varieties of scum floating on the top...........whish now I took a pic! It looked like something out of a malaysian oil dock's water :shock:

    With the new oil in, the oil in the sight window is still clear after another 200 extra kms, but I will do another oil filter at 500 to be sure!!

    This first quick oil change is not mentioned anywhere in manuals etc and it was only through advice I got in these pages that prompted me to do them. (thanks all) :grin:

    I now wonder what sort of damage could have been done if that quick first change is not done :shock:

    Just a heads up for the new bike buyer.

  2. Yeah, did mine at 40Km. The second change at 100Km later came out clean except for the usual clutch dust.
  3. Must vary by bikes build and initial engineering of parts.

    Did both my R1 and 600 at the 800 mark. Some discoluration but no major particles.

    You also have to remenmber that the inital 'run in oil' for the bike, needs to do its job. By ridding it early, you may stunt the bearing in of parts.
  4. Possibly, being a 900 Hornet, and the way they are trying to get rid of them (read overstocked) the bike has sat for a while?
    Not a good thing for oil to have done to it.
    From past experience with rebuilt engines, I've never seen too much to worry about at 1000kms. There'll be metal in your engine oil at any time you want to drain it between 0 and 5000kms depending on the engine.
    The only real advantage to an oil change at such a low mileage is if you replace the oil filter.
    Agree with the running in oil too, it is a special non detergent oil (does not carry particles around) and turning to a plain engine oil could have some other adverse effects too, like anti scuff additives coating not yet worn in parts.
    Anyway, what would the manufacturers know about their products! :LOL:

    Regards, Andrew.
  5. Shit, Jeff, you have me riding with crossed legs and a clenched date waiting for the weekend so I can dump my oil which will be at 570km. Darn it, I may just have to (somehow) pick up my 4 litres, filter and Typhoon-approved Stupidcheep filter remover and do it tomorrer.....

    Sight glass oil is slight off- ie dark so best I dump it.
  6. Just imagine people who own cars and never drain out the oil but just add more oil in as the engine wears out and it starts to burn more oil.

    Oil that is black though means its doing its job, removing the carbon deposits and sludge in the engine that has built up from normal use.

    My friend had a KIA medium sized car and hadn't done an oil change in over 2 years and many kms. He just kept topping the oil up and when I told him he needed to change it out he said that with new cars you don't need to change the oil. To make matters worse this guy was a fair way into getting his commercial pilots license so you would think he would know better.
  7. Righto, I rode to my bike shop straight after work, got my 4lt of mineral oil and oil filter then shot home to change the original oil which had done 530km by this stage (I did remember to pick up the kids though!!)

    Drained oil dark but no noticeable metal bits. Dark in a container (as per pics) but not so bad when put on lighter surface (and again when I spilled it all over the garage floor - see pics)

    Got filter off with multi grips figuring it didn't matter if I crushed it in the process - just had to watch the header pipes (thanks Suzuki!)



  8. I did the GPX at around 160kms, the oil wasn't bad but in the sun it looked like a fossikers pan with the little shiny bits in it.
  9. Just did my first change on my R1 at 155kms

    (would have done it 50 kms ago but didn't have a car to go and pick up oil etc)


    really good write up with pics of how to do it :) (on an R1 that is)

    but yeah like the others my oil was black and flecky in the sun (eek) so have new gold coloured oil in there (Castrol Mineral Active 4t) so that should last me till 500 (did filter too oem yammy one)

    I'll be taking the bike out this afternoon and for a trip to beachworth tomorrow so I'll see how she runs
  10. Yep, I did mine at 20km's and again at 100 for run in. New filters, clean the oil screens, new oil.

    Now that she's a trackbike I change her oil every trackday/race anyway, which is never more than 50km's anyway. Oil is cheap, engines aren't.
  11. Never a truer word has been typed (in the last 5 mins anyways)
  12. Makes me wonder what good your oil filter was doing then.
  13. I dunno about that. I got a quote from a Honda dealer during the week in Ringwood/Melb, who told me that all the 12k priced stock has sold out and gave me an on road hallucinogenic price of 15.5k. :( Who's going to buy one at that price?
  14. No one uses running-in oil. It's normal engine oil. You do the running-in by the way you ride it.


    Trevor G
  15. When I bought my Gixxer 1000 Mick Hone Motorcycles put mineral oil in it in for the 1000 km's, then semisynthetic after that.
  16. G'day everyone,.....

    My CBR1000rr6 had its first oil change at 1000klms.
    It stated it in the owners manual,it states it in the workshop manual.
    It was told to me by the sales and maintinance people when I bought the bike.
    At its first change the oil was a dark brown.
    Now when the service is due,the oil is a dark golden brown.
    I am 1500klms from her 24000klm service and the oil is going dark now.
    So far so good,the bike runs great!
    I have done what the manufacturer stated and no problems.

    If however you oil dose go black beforehand,yes,....change it!

    Whether this is somthing particular to certain types/models of bikes,I can't say.
    Simply if it go's black,change it!

    Dr Who?
  17. Run-in period oil is usually a mixture of synthetic and mineral. The use full synthetic is then following.
    The mineral base dissolves particles and creates a colloidal suspension of larger materials that help bed in the bore.

    Cheers for your knowledge mate! :wink:
  18. Changed mine at 400k's and it was black as sin. It's a good idea if you plan on keeping the bike for many years and kilometers. If not , put that money towards hair extensions for your boyfriend or a mortgage or something more exciting :grin:
  19. The same with my Bandit. Going in for 1000k service next week. The oil is no darker than honey which is what the shop mechanics told me it would be by now. They swore there was no need to do a low k change and from what I can see they're right. Maybe the original shipping oil was dropped in the pre delivery? They are putting full synth in this time.

    Jeimbo, you need to ride more!
  20. And...which factories do that??? (mix synthetic and mineral oil for running in)

    Re colloidal suspension: is that what they now teach?


    Trevor G

    PS Better suggestions appear to be - straight mineral oil for the first 500 km. Then change to syntheitc if you will.

    But does any factory which recommends synthetic actually send bikes out with mineral, or a mixture, for running in?