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Push to pass open/close garage door

Discussion in 'The Pub' at netrider.net.au started by Pugsly, Nov 26, 2013.

  1. I'm posting this up here as there is a little interest.

    Having just purchased a house with a automatic garage door and getting frustrated with fishing around for the remote with gloves on, I went looking for a better way.

    I didn't want the remote or extra buttons on the handlebars, I wanted something neater, more integrated.

    Some internet research came up with a few options. There is one completely off the shelf jobbie that hooks up to the high beam circuit and has a reciever on the garage door (over $100). There is another that has some smarts and only triggers for a second with a high beam, but still needs you to replace the battery in the remote every once in a while (about $60 + remote) then there is the cheap and cheerful option that I used.

    You need to know how to use a soldering iron and a multimeter to get this happening.

    The basic steps were:
    1. Buy cheap arse generic remote compatible with my garage door opener ($15 from ebay)
    2. Program it to the garage door so it works in the usual way (1 minute)
    3. Work out what voltage battery it uses (mine was 3v)
    4. Buy a voltage regulator from Jaycar to step the 12v down to your voltage - not required if remote is 12v ($3)
    5. Solder regulator onto remote where battery was, and run leads out for splicing into high beam circuit
    6. Test by hooking leads up directly to 12v battery and press the button on the remote. Garage door should do its thing
    7. Solder a small wire to either side of the button for operating the door so it's always 'pressed'
    8. Test by briefly hooking up leads to 12v. Door should do its thing without button press
    9. Wire into high beam circuit. Brief high beam should act the same way as pressing the button on the remote.
    10. Tuck the remote up somewhere out of the way
    11. Have a beer and survey your handy work.

    You will probably want to put the remote in a waterproof bag or something.

    Total cost is about $20. Time, maybe an hour.

    A caveat. High beam on is the same as keeping the button pressed down on the remote. 3v @20ma doesn't worry me. But it seems to be concerning to some.

    I don't have any photos, but I plan to replicate the same thing for the cage, so I'll take some pics if there is interest.
    • Informative Informative x 2
  2. This is a great idea... no need for a dry relay contact across the remote button contacts?
  3. Nah, the button is soldered closed permanetly. Powering the circuit via high beam is what makes it go.

  4. Ahh! I missed point 7... excellent!
  5. Do you have a reliable ebay seller for the remote to suggest?
  6. This is awesome, doing this after work tomorrow lol. Cheers for the inspiration!
  7. on the list
  8. I would suggest at a small extra cost gutting the remote and placing it and the voltage regulator inside the smallest jiffy box you can fit it into drill a hole for your wires to come out of and seal with a rubber grommet, and place under seat.

  9. Or there's this approach:

    • Funny Funny x 1
    • Winner Winner x 1
  10. Yup, definitely the way to go.

    My front assembly had a nice cavity I could stuff the remote into. So I wrapped it in insulation tape and tucked it away. It's not going to get wet unless I'm trying to fjord a river. :)
  11. Why not simply rewire the remote's button to a waterproof button mounted on the bars or triple clamp ? ie. a 'remote' button for the remote control......2 minutes of soldering for anyone but the most hamfisted and inept.
  12. Because I didnt want another button on the handlebars, and having to change the battery in the remote when it goes flat.

    The soldering for this was barely more than your remote button. All the effort was connecting to the high beam circuit as it was fiddly on my bike.

    Anyway, each to their own. A button is an option if you prefer, but I prefer my integrated install and forget approach.
  13. conformal coating and gluey heatshrink.

    conformal coating will make the pcb close to waterproof
    put gluey heatshrink over, effectivly the same as covering it in epoxy.

    prety friking waterproof

    1 point... make sure its all working first... theres no going back
  14. That's certainly an option! Where mine is located a liberal wrapping of insulation tape will do the job.

    Now, unfortunately the only riding I've done since installing this has been to doctors, physio and tests, but heck, it's cool as hell rolling up the street, flash my lights and having the garage door open before I get to it. :)

    The only thing I've found with my particular setup if that I need to hold high beam for longer than I'd like. That is, rather than a quick flash, it's maybe a 0.5second hold. Nothing huge, just longer than is ideal.

  15. put a cap/res/transistor circuit in that holds the circuit closed for a second when you flash the lights.

    also a diode so it doesnt shove voltage back up and keep your high beams on.
  16. Yup, if I ever have an excuse to pull the front off the bike again, I'll do that. :) Thanks.
  17. have you got the pics to put up? i need all the guidance i can get
  18. I've got this image of you riding down side streets with your high-beams on and random garage doors opening.
    • Like Like x 1
  19. For what it's worth, I just went with a cheap ebay opener for my car keys and put my old opener from my car keys onto my bike keys. Much to my surprise it has lasted just fine, even though it is subject to lots more vibration than it is probably designed for, and I ride in all weather conditions so it has been in the rain a lot.... this being Melbourne and all. Still working fine after a year of that punishment.
  20. Sorry mate, no. I didn't take pics at the time. Do some googling though. Theres quite a few ways to skin this cat. All the way from buying a pre-built kit to doing it on the cheap like I did.

    The cheap third party remote I bought has done the job just fine. It's wrapped up in plenty of insulation tape, and stashed in behind the dash/headlight housing. I'm not worried about vibration as there are no moving parts, and the soldering is fairly solid.

    Where about's in Melbourne are you? I can give you a hand.