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Puncture repair - tubed tyres

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by talon, Mar 31, 2011.

  1. OK, its a basic question, but just say I'm riding my wire wheeled cruiser along, and pick up a puncture. The bike doesn't have a centrestand it lift the wheel up, and being a wire wheeled bike, I have to stop the leak in the tube, and not just plug the tyre.
    How do I fix the puncture?
    Is there a can of foam or goo I can squirt into the tube valve to plug the leak, or do I have to somehow take out the holed tube and put a repair patch on it? (Bloody hard with a heavy bike and no centrestand.)

  2. There is, but, in my experience, it doesn't work all that well and it makes subsequent work on the tyre horrible. Might get you home or to a tyre shop though.

    Pretty much the only way to do a reliable repair. That or stick a new tube in. Like you say though, difficult on most cruisers. I'd even be reluctant to try it at the roadside with my relatively light DR650. It's theoretically possible to do a patch repair without taking the wheel out by only pulling out the bit of the tube with a hole in it. Depends on how tight the beads are and how stiff the tyre sidewalls. Again, I don't fancy my chances with the DR 'cos I find I need a big vice to break the beads on the rear. You might manage it on a 19" or 21" front though.

    Fortunately, punctures have become rare things. I've only had three on bikes in the last 22 years. Having to call for help once every seven years or so ain't bad.
  3. Zoosh its called, But there are others,
    Comes in a pressure pack.
    Most car accessorie places have it,
    It will get you home or to a tyre repair place,
    On my cars, I have driven many miles after putting it in,
    But it fills the carcass with this gluey shit,
  4. #4 lui, Mar 31, 2011
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 13, 2015
    Check out how this guy breaks the bead, quite clever.

    Watch the entire footage or click this link to go directly to 4:54: [media=youtube]uSZnqzLKfso[/media]

  5. I was told the foam repair can do more harm than good. It's probably not so much of an issue for tubed tyres because the tube can easily be replaced. However, for tubeless tyres the foam can damage the rim on contact and ultimately cause the rim to fail.

    I don't know if the guy telling the story was BSing, Would be good to hear some facts on this.
  6. I have tyres sitting in my garage that have it still in them, Been there for years,
    I just have to clean the gluey crap off them before reuse,
    None have damage to the rims, Its more like a protective coating, stops rust,
    What was that bloke using, Acid,
  7. The tyre goop I've used most recently smells of ammonia. Unpleasant but not, I would expect, likely to harm a rim in itself.
  8. The guy who said don't use the foam works at a tyre shop, the same shop that screwed up the patch plug making the puncture unrepairable. Costing me $300 to replace a tyre that only had 2,000km on it.

    I know where not to go in the future.
  9. Yup. If I worked in a tyre shop, I'd tell people not to use the goop too. Like I said, it makes subsequent work on the tyre very unpleasant.
  10. To be fair, it's got me home a couple of times (once car, once bike), but no more than that. I regard it as a desperate measure when there is no available alternative.
  11. Middle of the Jamieson Eildon road at 2-00 am
    That shit is a god send, it will get you home,
    Middle of the back of beyond, 2 miles past the black stump,
    you will put it in, and be truly thank full that you were carrying it with you, and it does work better than a pucture repair kit,
    No matter how long it takes to get the crap out and off, once you get home,
  12. Somewhere between Tennant creek and Katherine NT, in the dark, nothing around, Flat tyre on GSX1100. Can of finilec(Zoosh) got me to Katherine to check the tyre pressure and then home to Darwin and I left it until I needed to replace the tyre. Yes it can make changing the tyre a PITA, but not as much as pushing the bloody thing home or leaving it on the side of the road somewhere while you try and get a lift.
    I did use it in a tube tyre on an old trail bike years ago and it didnt work, too many holes from dodgy spokes and no rim band protecting the tube.
  13. Its a long way to go back for your bike from Darwin, and you need two people if you dont have a trailer or ute,

    I bet you were thanking your lucky stars that you had it with you,
  14. I watched a friend of the family use it in his R90 BM when I was about 16 or so, He always carried a can in the panniers, When I started travelling I did the same. The NT one was the furthest from civilisation. But thankful isnt quite strong enough.

    There are also liquid tyre sealers you can use to prevent punctures. I had a regular customer come into the Bike shop I worked out, and he said he thought he could hear rocks inside his tyres. He wasnt real sure about mentioning it, he thought we'd think he was crazy. We did.. :angel: But humoured him anyway, (customers always right)
    I pulled the front tyre and Sure enough there were rocks inside the tyres. My opinion is that a previous owner had put the puncture sealant in the tyre and it had gone hard for whatever reason, Tyres were fairly old and hard. Most of the lumps were the size of golf balls, some bigger some smaller..
  15. You may be lucky with road bikes when using that canned shit, but forget about it on dirt bikes. I've never had any luck with it on either though. I guess it may be worth a try on the off chance it might work. I'd rather just slip in a new tube. I usually carry a couple of 200mm tyre levers, a few CO2 cannisters and a spare tube when out on my dirt bike. Just put the sidestand down and wedge a stick or rock or whatever you can find under the opposite side footpeg. Loosen everything off first before you try lifting the rear though.
    Learn to change tyres at home first though. Once you get the hang of it you won't bother going back to a bike shop to change tyres for you. Once you get the wheel out, it's a 10 minute job to actually change the tyre/tube.
  16. Do you carry the spare tube and levers on your bike,
  17. What's your secret for breaking beads? 'cos I'd hate to have to do it on the back of the DR under field conditions. I've done quite a few tyre swaps over the years on most of my bikes and that rear TrailWing is definitely the hoop from hell. Getting the beads reseated is a bastard too, generally needing everything my compressor has to give, delivered in as explosive a manner as I can arrange.
  18. Not on the bike -but I always wear a small lightweight backpack. Road or dirt riding. I think I may have posted a picture on here of my tyre levers once before, but can't seem to locate it. Anyway, my KTM toolkit is brilliant, I just added the two 200mm levers to it, and wrap it all together in a cotton rag, then chuck it in the bottom of my backpack. Doesn't rattle and clatter around that way. Would be lucky if it weighed more than a kg. A 21 inch tube can be stuffed into a 17/18 inch rim, but not vice versa. So that's all that's required to get you back to civilisation.
  19. If I'm at home, I have a highly sophisticated bead breaking tool. It consists of a 3 foot length of 1 1/2 gal pipe, and about a foot of 4"X2" Place the wheel on the dirt/grass (brake disc up) about a foot away from the rear of your car. I have a couple of dead ones in my back yard (cars), so I get to choose. Stand the length of timber vertically on the tyre, as close to the rim as possible. Place the pipe under the towbar/bumper of your chosen car, and over top of the timber. You should arrange it so you have about a 2 or 3 to 1 ratio. Then just push down on the other end of the pipe. Or bounce on it a few times if it's a really tight b@stard. You might have to try a couple of different spots but it will budge after a couple of tries.
    I am guessing your DR must have safety rims yes? My KTM dirt wheels are not, and I can break the bead just with my boot heels. My Motard wheel set has safety rims and they can be a bit of a prick to break. Well, a lot actually.
    The side stand of another bike also works well for bead breaking. I've only tried that on my sports bikes 'cause the carcases are really nice and soft in the sidewalls, so come off really easy.
    As for re-seating, I don't get too concerned about it. I only have a hand pump at home, so I just whack in enough pressure to keep the rim off the road on the trip to a local servo, and then let their compressor have its way with the tyre. And yes, I have seen 100lbs on the gauge once before the tyre seated. With an almighty bang that caused me and all those at the servo to shit their pants simultaneously. Although I still managed to hold an expression of complete nonchalance during the whole procedure :)
    If you're not in a hurry, change your tyre on a hot day. Leave them laying in the sun for an hour or so, and it makes it a lot easier to change them. I only use 200 (or it could be 250mm) tyre levers, 'cause if you need more force than that, you're doing it wrong.