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Pros and Cons of oversize rubber

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Reaper, Apr 12, 2006.

  1. A bit of a double post here but what the hell,,,
    Can any one explain the pros and cons of fitting larger than factory rubber on the rear?
    I would also like to get the final word on "changing up without the clutch" ive seen posts regarding this but really didnt get the definitive answer...Thanks in advance...

  2. I can't help you much on the larger tyre size stuff.

    On the clutchless shifting issue, I believe it's safe and shouldn't be harmful to your gearbox if done quickly, strongly and definitively. Far worse to pull the clutch in, let the revs drop right back, and then push the lever gently - the gear selection dogs won't push home properly and you'l get that nasty keerrrrrrrunch sound.

    I've noticed that clutchless shifting happens much smoother in higher gears, and at higher revs. The only time I'll use a clutchless upshift out of first is if I'm right on the hammer, full throttle and really bloody going for it - ie. drag race start onto a freeway entrance.
  3. Fitting larger than usual rubber on the rear will give you a larger contact patch, resulting in more traction.
    I dont know about cons but I assume it would make the bike somewhat harder to turn, and might misalign the front/rear contact patches.

    Modern motorcycle gearboxes are so smooth that normal clutchless upshifting is often results in less wear for the engine/gearbox than using the clutch.
    On my 250 I can do clutchless downshifts as well.
    If I want I can ride around and the only time I use the clutch is when I come to a stop.

    Dont do full throttle clutchless upshifts from 1st to 2nd, as you have to bang through neutral on the way and it has led to many gearbox problems, one shift with the clutch isnt going to cost you that much time in a 'race/drag' anyway.
  4. phatter rubber pros - looks better.

    - may improve traction.

    phatter rubber cons - harder to turn

    - chance it could rub on chain, chain guards, swingarm etc. depending on tolerances.
  5. Reaper,

    Re the tyre thing. Why? My answer is based on riding hypersport Dukes - so factor this in but it should apply to you too. These are alleged to be over-tyred from the factory. It is a cosmetic thing - buyers like the look of larger tyres - it is what the market wants, so for instance our 998 came out with a 190 on the back, my 748 has a 180. But the 998 handles and corners better with a 180 and I am told my 748 would benefit from running a 170. I am not fussed so I have left a 180 on mine but next time I might try the 170. I have kept saying I will do it and have been through five rears and am on my sixth. Husband has tried a 180 is currently running a 190 but has decided absolutely to go back to the 180 again. So what I am saying is why go up to a larger size, why not go down. It mightn't look as sexy but your bike might like it.

    re the clutch thing. If you are riding hard and if you are absolutely 100% familiar with the rev ranges of your bike and know exactly and I do mean exactly where that sweet spot is whilst changing up, then it shouldn't be a problem especially as Loz says in the higher gears. But if you are not familiar with it and you are riding around preloading the gear lever for any amount of time trying to get the bike to shift gears you will cause damage to the fork selectors and other components. So If you are just riding around use the clutch. ie. you have to know what you are doing!
  6. How much money do you spend on your tires and how often? VERY VERY curous. When do you replace them (generally... not when they wear out)
  7. You mean to tell me you are supposed to use the clutch to change gears?

    Man, and here I was thinking that it was only used to take off :grin:
  8. It depends a lot on what sort of tyres you have. I'm lucky to get 3000km's out of mine, but they're some of the stickiest you can get. Less grippy tyres might get you 10-12000km's.

    I'm happy to sacrifice longevity for grip, but it doesn't always make sense if you do a lot of highway km's (square them off too quickly).

  9. How much money are we talking here? $1000???, $10,000????
  10. evilooliver, if you are talking to me then, the answer is as follows. My bike came out of the factory with a Pirelli Dragon on it - lasted about 6k. Replaced it with a Pirelli Dragon Evo - I passed this on to my Husband after about 3K - I didn't like it. He didn't either! Then I went to Michelin Pilot Sport, have had three of those (had a nail through one - I replaced it -it had done about 5k - they generally lasted about 6k as well). Then I went to Michelin Pilot Power - have had two of those. The Pilot Powers seem to last much better than the Pilot Sport, less flattening and deformation - I can get about 7.5k out of one of these. Possibly more, but then I went for a big ride (see below). I have paid between $280 and $340 for a rear depending on where and when I bought them and also tyres when they first are released into the market place seem to be more expensive (perhaps recovering R & D and set up costs by the manufacturer). Oops that means 7 rears. I can't count!

    Front's I replace every 1.5 rears, or if I change the rear to another type or manufacturer. I don't like running mismatched tyres. Although I did run a Michelin Pilot Sport front with a Pilot Power rear for a while and it was okay. Front's are less expensive and I think anything from about $190 to $220-ish(?) Have had less of them and can't really remember exactly.

    So in summary I ride them till they wear out generally to the wear indicators, or if I know I am going on a big ride - say several thousand k, I might throw away a rear or a front that still has some left on it - just to be sure I am going to get the distance.
  11. Yep sorry should have elobarated a little more,,,on the rubber issue its just talk i hear around the traps, im happy with my 160/60, just wanted to be a little better informed.
    The clutch thing,,,Im always using it first to second, and gradually getting better feel of the clutchless upshift from there, i have noticed that she dont wanna shift unless the revs are spot on, which ironically sees me regulary exceed the limit which is enforced by the Big Blue, so if its better for the bike i will continue trying to get it right,,,all the input has been great,,Thanks,,,nice to be aboard Netrider,,,, :grin:
  12. I would not be experimenting with a Ducati gearbox myself, I'd just be using the clutch lever.
    They must keep putting them up there on the handlebars for some odd reason?
  13. Be VERY carful with wider rubber. Unless you know it definatly works on your particular bike, do not do it.

    The reason is that wider rubber will form a different profile on you rim. Think about it. The point where the tyre meets the rim is the same for both tyres. Therefore the wider tyre must "bend" more to get back to the same spots. The result is a more balloon like tyre profile.

    This may work better on your bike, but it's highly unlikey. You are more likely to upset the entire handling dynamic of your bike.

    Clutchless changes are generally fine, provided there's no excess crashing going on. Some bikes are better then others. Suzuki's good. Hardley bad. Others in between.