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Process of straightening forks

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Zbike, Jan 28, 2009.

  1. I have a bent stanchion (fork tube)

    I want to straighten it myself. I have access to a Hydralic Press

    The way i want to try to do this

    -Take out the tube
    -Find the bend (not its not indented its only a slight bend over a large distance)
    -measure the fork diameter.
    -drill a hole in some hardwood with the same diameter
    -secure the fork on a hydralic press with 2 blocks of wood (cut to size) on either side of the bend
    -one right on the bend with the press pushing back down

    I know there is guy in liverpool that does this and its relativly cheap (i have used him beofre for frames and brake disks), but i have access to all the tools i think i need. I want to do it myself however do not know anyone who has done it themselves.

    Would like to know if my method would work?
  2. It should. Let us know how you go.
  3. Sounds pretty much how the pros do it.

    How do you intend to check for straightness?
  4. no i dont have a runaround gauge to check for straightness.
    I do plan on rolling the fork on a straight table backwards and forwards which should reveal most irregularities,

    I've read somewhere that the process is more art than scince thou. Also if i align the fork to face outwards (left or right) instead of front and back to the travel of the bike once its straightened, any slight irregularities should not be noticible. And should not have any detrimental effect.
  5. Yeah, the flat table trick should be OK. In reality, there are an awful lot of used forks out there operating perfectly well with bends in them that would show up easily, even by visual inspection (sighting along them).

    However I disagree that bends should be oriented side to side. Doing so will mean that the distance between the stanchions varies and will result in a sticky action. If the bend is oriented fore and aft, the stanchion to stanchion distance will vary less and allow (hopefully) the forks to work smoothly.
  6. you could use a sand pit, or even carbon backed paper to see if there is any more pressure applied(indentations/Darker imprint) in any particular location.
  7. A couple of vee blocks and a dial indicator gauge will tell you exactly and precisely how straight your fork tubes are. Not expensive as you don't need the top of the line dial indicator for what you're doing.
  8. Sorry to disapoint u guys but i choped out and paid to get em straightened,
    It worked out cheaper than fuel and a case of bear to my mates place to use his press.

    Althou i will note the guys that straightened them was using blocks of wood in a press, so i think my way would definatly have worked.

    Thanks for all your help, im sure ill end up doing this myself sooner or later (as i fix alot of wrecks) and ill be sure to post up how i go.
  9. +1

    $50-60 will get you a magnetic base and Chinese DI that's accurate enough for pretty much anything you're ever likely to need to do to a motorcycle and which can do a decent job on amateur machine shop work.
  10. hi there....your almost there....we have dolly's made up from alloy for all sizes and use those accordingly.some times you dont need to take the fork apart aswell....if you dont have a dial gauge you can hold the fork on the bench and park a heavy object not to it and rotate the tube in the lower with to see the runout....when pressing i like to measure the length of the throw on the press,back it off and see how much its moved...then press down to the same spot,go an extra MM and then you get an idea of the elasticity of that particular tube