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Problems with 1989 MC19 CBR250R

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by nk7, May 31, 2012.

  1. Hey folks. My first question here. I have a 1989 CBR250R that I'm trying to get back up and running. Worked 6 months ago. After the run I changed the front brake handle which had its end broken off (from previous owner) and left it. I then came back last week after travelling and it doesn't want to run and the front brakes are jammed onto the disk. I could hardly move the thing and I was worried I would warp the disk. I had forgotted to put the bike in the garage for the 6 months due to my idiocy and it was subjected to the elements. Do I bleed the brakes to sort this out? It couldn't have been the new brake handle could it? (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130557188780&ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:AU:1123)

    The other major question : Since the bike wasn't running I decided to give general manitenance first by changing sparkies and oil before I troubleshoot. I started with sparkies today and went for the toughest one - the spark plug for 3rd cylinder from the left when you're sitting down on the bike. Funnily enough, it seemed to be lower than the rest of the spark plugs (as in scewed in further which did no make sense)- the socket could not screw it out. It was as if the socket was not 'meshing' with/catching onto the spark plug to be able to screw it out. I hope spark plug didn't catch any cylinder head when I tried to start it. Can spark plugs melt from that? The other spark plugs could be removed but not this one. Any ideas?

    This is what it looks like - almost nothing to catch onto:


    This is a good spark plug:

    THanks and sorry for so many questions at once. I hope we can sort this out, man I feel like an idiot for leaving it out and not covering it up at least.

  2. Hi nk7 and welcome. Your post hot auto modded because of the number of posts you had. Generally good form to go an introduce yourself in the Welcome forum.

    You will get some people pop up and help you with your bike problem soon I am sure. We try and be a helpful bunch here. :)
  3. Could I delete the repeat thread? https://netrider.net.au/forums/showthread.php?t=132678#.T8d7gKxxaUk
  4. Hi nk7,

    That sparkplug looks pretty stuck in there, I'm sure some of the more knowledgeable members will help you out there.

    I just wanted to take the time to ask if you drained the fuel bowls before you left? After 6 months sitting in your carbs, you might find the fuel has gummed up a bit and may be blocking your jets too. Ditto in your fuel tank, you might want to drain the tank and pour fresh fuel in, it can't hurt.

    With the disc I would start by opening the master cylinder and the bleed nipple of the caliper to release the hydrualic pressure, an then try to gently lever the pads off the disc. Again, I would wait till more knowledgeable people confirm or deny this but hope this might be in the right direction.


  5. It looks like there's only half a plug in there, and given it's the bottom half (it's always the bottom half...) it's gonna be a right pain in the arse to get it out.
    I'd start by filling the well with WD40 and having a good long think about it overnight.
    Then if you can't get a small pair of multi-grips to bite it, you'll probably end up taking the head off and going from the electrode end...

    Oh, and get yourself into the Welcome thread before I bite you on the face...
  6. WD40 down the spark plug hole overnight? Was gonna attempt picking it out tomorrow. No danger?

    Oh and I thought I was already in the welcome thread haha. https://netrider.net.au/forums/showthread.php?t=132677
  7. No I didn't drain fuel bowls before I left - I did not look after the girl which is why I'm annoyed at myself. Fresh fuel will be the way to go once I get this spark plug out.
  8. Sorry fellas called in to work from last weekend and finally got chance to do some work on bike today. 4 hours later I am the proud father to this little baby. 5 g and name Nelly:

    The tools I used to finally get it out:

    I had sprayed the spark plug cylinder with WD40 night before. The tools I tried were, copper wiring, speaker wiring, flat head screwdriver, sticky residue on end of spark plug socket (to let it stick to the rubber and pull it out), guitar strings, telekenesis. Almost had it out 1 hour into it but knocked it back down with my butter fingers.

    Also, sprayed the master cylinder cover screws with wd40 and hammered drilled them out. Gonna get new ones tomorrow.

    Also, see some rust on the chain - might not risk things and just get a new one. Where is best place?
  9. Is that rubber boot from the lead or is it a piece of actual spark plug?
  10. Looks like the end of the spark plug boot! That will stop the plug spanner going all the way down!!
    Front brakes, try pushing the caliper towards the disc, well squeeze really as you don't want to bend the disc.
    Then rock the bike back & forth. Should free up the front brake which is probably just rusted on.
    Might have stuffed the piston, through rust, so inspect that while you're at it.
    Pretty much any bike shop will sell you a chain to suit.
  11. I finally got the chance to work on the bike this weekend. Seems like weekends is all I can afford for working on the bike at the moment...pretty busy.

    Little Update:

    So I got a chance to empty fuel tank, replace fuel filter. Emptied tank last night and left it covered outside overnight. Picked it up today and hear some rustling - the inside has got what seems like little black rusted off chunks and pieces. Poured some fuel down there to flush it out but seems to be more coming off as I shake it. I'm worried it might block the exit line (fuel seems to be dirtier when I tried to dump the fuel - slight brown tinge). Don't know what is going on but not all came out. Any ideas? Do I have to start looking for a new tank? Don't want to reattach and start the bike.

    Also got a chance to bleed the brakes. Did the front first. There was almost no fluid in master cylinder. I remember getting front brakes checked, cleaned and bled before I could get roadworthy (so I am hoping they did a good job - but fluid this low!!). Filled up and tried to crack nipple - bit of rust on nipple and spanner began to slip. Could get maybe 2-3 bleeds (fluid was dark with little black flakes through it - very dirty) when I couldn't unscrew anymore. And front brake handle now can be squeezed with no resistance at all (not sure what this means - possibly coz of nipple not creating vacuum anymore). Need a new nipple tomorrow after work. Brakes still are seized on front.

    And to make matters worse - the back brakes I somehow found were seized onto disk as well!

    Tried to bleed these but didn't seem to help me dislodge brake pads from disk. I don't know how this happened since the bike has been in the garage since I slowly moved it there. Back wheel was fine. So now I have 2 seized brakes to have fun with.
  12. your brake handle will squeeze down with little resistance because there is either a leak somewhere, or some air in the line - it doesnt take much air for it to feel like you have no brakes.

    But I would take both sets of brakes off, and take them to a brake shop to be rebuilt, Brakes are not something you want to mess about with and stuff up. especially if they are showing signs of not working properly.

    If your in Brisbane I can give you the name / number of a good place that did my brakes. (for the record, 2x front 4 piston calipers rebuilt + Master cylinder rebuild and re sleeve was under $300) They'll even throw on new nipples if yours are worn to the point of your spanner slipping on them...

    your brakes are probably the most important part of your bike... just remember that when your fumbling around with them.

    As for your fuel tank, maybe goto wreckers and pick up one off a broken bike? or continue to try and flush the small bits out... but if its rusted on the inside from not having any fuel for a long period of time.. to the point of metal flaking off... I'd say its time for a new tank... unless you want to rely on your fuel filter to pick up all of the pieces :)
  13. Brakes rebuilt eh? Definitely agree with you on them being extremely important. I may just call around about that - I just got the nipples today. Everywhere I went to search for some told me the same thing. Get rid of the import bike and get something else.

    I've invested too much into it though. I'm up in Townsville. Might call around tomorrow. Also will need to have it towed.
  14. don't need to have it towed to get your brakes done, just take them off, the MC19 only has one caliper front and rear, it will literally be like 10 bolts max total, and 5 mins of work front and rear.
  15. Ahh you mentioned the master cylinder being rebuilt as well (the inside rubber sleeve) and possibly the tubing. The rubber sleeve has started to 'crumple' so not sure if needs replacing since I can still get the master cylinder cover on - no probs.

    The calipers itself would be pretty easy to unbolt. Only thing I wonder about the rebuilding is that I can get used calipers for $100 or so (front and back) from a bike wrecker. Good condition. Wonder how much the rebuild would be - about the same you think?
  16. Reading through this I have to pipe up,,,
    If you don't know what you are doing with brakes, DON'T touch them.
    Reading what you have posted, you don't know how to bleed brakes, so taking them off & just getting them rebuilt isn't going to fix your brakes!!
    Sorry if this sounds like I'm coming down a bit hard on you, but these things (brakes) are crucial!
    Used calipers are still second hand, rebuilt are as good as new. What is your life worth???
    Get the master cylinder done at the same time & check all brake hoses for cracking & perishing of the rubber.
    Get the bike down to someone who knows.
  17. No offense taken. I've done plenty of bleeds on the track car and my own car. Haven't had any spongy ones yet.

    I didn't write that I was trying out a vacuum bleed kit with an incorrect fitment for the air compressor - gave it a try half-assed and thought it might work. Think it let in air instead - paid $60 for the damn thing. Tried then the normal way but nipple screw began to break down from rust until I couldn't unscrew anymore.

    Now brake rebuilds I would probably get someone else to do. Don't want to risk that. What do they have to rebuild on the master cylinder side of things? Just that rubber seal thing?
  18. Does anyone know how to remove rear brake caliper? I only have one attachment bolt that I undid. The second one I do not know how to undo. Or do I need to remove the caliper mounting bracket as well? (this would mean wheel as well?)
  19. Its normally just two bolts, See below. undo those two bolts and the entire caliper with pads should come off if you pull up.. this might be harder for you if your brakes a stuck on like you mentioned?

    Maybe do some googling for a service manual.

  20. Got the service manual cheers anyway. Only was looking at the (J) section which didn't have the above image but image was in earlier pages. I figured everything specific to my model would be in relevant section but seems they didn't want to keep repeating themselves.

    Yeh it is actuall 1 bolt attaching itself to bracket nothing else. Here's what I did for anyone out there.

    Yeh it was the brake pads catching on the bracket - so first removed attachment bolt, removed the hanger plug, pin (this bolts onto other side of caliper so not technically the same as the other attachment bolt), brake pads slipped out and caliper was able to be twisted away from disk and then gently removed from pin extending toward the exhaust from the bracket.

    Here are pics for anyone in future - quite simple in the end. As it always ends up being.