Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Powdercoat or paint (frame)?

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by daewoo, Oct 15, 2007.

  1. I had to pull the engine out of my old XR250 over the weekend...

    With the motor out, it is only about 4 more bolts to get it back to a bare frame, so I thought I might 'tart 'er up' a bit...

    I don't know if I should paint it, or get it powdercoated... I can paint it myself, painted a few cars over the years and have all the gear... but I am LAZY...

    or, I could get it sandblasted and powdercoated...

    I believe that powdercoating is tougher, is that right?

    I would want to do it in original orange...

  2. I've had a frame powder coated before and two thoughts:

    1. It doesn't get into all the nooks and crannies. I found I had to go round with a brush and black killrust and touch it up. Fortunately the touch up areas are mostly out of site, by the nature of the process.

    2. Whilst powder coat does come in every colour, I don't think you will find someone willing to set up just for one item. Blacks easy. White also, but an exact shade of orange? I doubt it.
  3. Hadn't thought of that... I have only had car wheels and guage panels done before...

    The place that all of the racing guys use, Mr Clean at Padstow, has a colour chart that you choose from, and I don't think they would try and match colours or anything... I do remember that if you wanted it done in white they would do it in a day, but colours took a week, because they had to wait until they had nothing else on...

    Thanks for your feedback...

    Do you think it is that much tougher??? also, can you touch it up afterwards? which is an advantage of acrylic paint...

  4. I have been wondering the same myself. I need to do up my old bonneville frame swingarm and stands etc,. I am leaning towards two-pack paint as it is tough and can be touched up when chipped etc. I have heard that powdercoating can develop rust from underneath which blisters up and comes off. I might wait for a few more opinions of those learned restrorers out there before I make my final choice. I intend to ride the bike once I have finished restoring it to somewhere near it's former glory. Does anyone have first hand knowledge in this area?

  5. Someone who powdercoated their frame said they were very happy with it and that it is much harder and more durable than painting it
  6. +1 much tougher

    If it rusted from underneath it wasnt done right in the first place.

    2pack is good but will scraptch pretty easy
  7. I've had a number of chassis powdercoated over the years, and can vouch for the rust. Powdercoating is not 100% impermeable, and will let moisture in quite quickly.
    many powdercoaters will sandblast or gritblast an item before coating, to ensure adhesion, which is not a good thing - I learned.

    it won't happen overnight, but over a few rainy days, a couple of washes or degreasing jobs and a couple of months, you will notice the finish go dull. it is very difficult to restore it to a brilliant lustre.

    Powdercoating is meant for things like fencing, balustrading, outdoor furniture etc, and works well with aluminium, until the corrosion thing happens (which is a while with aluminium)

    If you live near the coast, powdercoating is not your friend, as it will hide the rust issue until it's past too late.

    Powdercoating doesn't chip as easily, but it still does chip, and doesn't rub back well - but you can use touchup cans on it for an okay fix.

    Personally after doing it a couple of times on different chassis, I've learned that the older style enamel, which is not in a huge range of colours either, is far far and away better for a chassis. It retains its' gloss, is extremely hard wearing and can be touched up easily and done in a way that is barely noticeable.

    2pack and acrylic is a little easier and certainly quicker to dry than enamel, which takes weeks to harden properly, but they both chip out rather quick in comparison.

    if it were me, I'd strip the chassis, etch prime it and spray it with old mineral-based enamel. Certainly a job that guarantees to prevent laziness. :)
  8. On it's durability, It's tough, but not hard.

    So it'll take a bit of bumping, but it's not difficult to scratch a gouge in the surface.

    Then it's a budgy fix or a complete re-do.
  9. looks like a case for sandblast... etch prime... than some enamel house paint and a long bake in the sun...

  10. You could always get it chromed ;).
  11. you mean Nickel-plated, because chrome plating causes hydrogen embrittlement.

    not a good idea when chassis are required to maintain high tensile and fatigue strength levels...

    Nickel plating looks better anyway.
  12. Powder coat is far and away the most popular choice for dirt bike restorations. Popular doesnt necessarily = best, but there's gotta be something to it.
  13. Powdercoat is fine for a year or 2 then it can flake off. Your better off painting it.
  14. I ended up getting it powder coated by Mr Clean at Padstow (02) 9790 1998...

    $120 to sandblast or $160 to sandblast and powder coat... it wasn't worth cleaning out my gun after painting it for $40, let alone the cost of paint etc...

    the results...







  15. love it
  16. :)

    I'm pretty happy, considering it was the first time I had turned a spanner on a bike, other than oil changes...

    I stripped the bike back to a frame, rebuilt the engine, installed a new clutch, replaced the head bearings, tidied up the wiring...

    put it all back together, and it started and ran.... mind you, it is only an old XR... not much to those things...