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[Poll] Emergency Braking Techniques Used

Discussion in 'New Riders and Riding Tips' at netrider.net.au started by Guest, Feb 5, 2006.

  1. Front/Rear/Clutch Engaged

  2. Front/Rear/Clutch Engaged/Downshift

    0 vote(s)
  3. Front/Rear/Clutch Dis-engaged

  1. Ok ya'll,

    Time to impart your knowledge/experience in regards to braking
    techniques as this is an important safety function we have to rely
    on from time to time.

    So I'm wanting to know from you guys how I (& other noobs)
    should be reacting when having to use Emergency braking

    Obviously the key to wash off as much heat as possible in the shortest
    period of time. The key is to how this can be best achieved which is
    why I started this thread.

    I've alway been a user of both F/R at the same time but the reason I
    thought I'd start this thread is bc I'm also after advice from ya'll about
    the use or non use of the clutch as well.

    I find that some maintain that it is preferable to downshift during hard
    braking in order to be in a position to accelerate again if the situation
    demands it. With the goal of reducing the chance of a rear lockup & its
    negative consequences people suggest not declutching during a hard stop.
    The rear wheel this remaining coupled mechanically to the engine is less
    susceptible to lock.

    Others would claim that during an emergency stop the rider must
    concentrate exclusively on braking & that downshifting can only
    increase braking distances.

    I've use both approaches & not sure which is the better/preferred method
    I should be using.

    I've read part of a pdf file I have & according to testing by the author,
    "In light of these figures we recommend completely declutching during
    an emergency stop

    I note this report is exactly 2yrs old now.

    Thoughts/Advice & Votes pls peeps. :wink:
  2. On the Gold Coast no one knows how to drive so emergency breaking is a daily event with me I'm still new myself so i use front rear and leave the clutch alone till I'm nearly stopped which is the way they showed me during lessons and Qride.
  3. You have to take every situation as it comes though im a fan of always having the bike or a car in gear(a useful one) at all times.
  4. Have bike upright before braking or else i start scaring myself.

    Then progessively apply both breaks until they hit their stops. If lock up and have sense of mind, will remove brake and reapply.
    Also pull in clutch and change down to 1st. I don't have all my shit together to use engine braking effectively in an emergency situation yet.
  5. Front and rear brake all the time, sometimes change down gears depending on the speed, time, and place that I have to stop in....
  6. Front and rear brake, clutch in. Front brake gets more pressure for a short stopping distance. If I have time / distance I'll down shift.
  7. Gosh got me thinking and that is a bit hard after too many sparkly drinks this evening. But will give it a go. I am a user of the front, set-up, squeeze, ease a bit and then squeeze a lot more - rear (mine not very useful) and clutch engaged whilst downshifting. I do not let the clutch out between shifts, but hold it in until I have reached a gear that is appropriate. A really hard emergency brake will see me in first ready to take off again. A less hard brake would see me down to second, cos my bike will take off again, not happily, but it will do it. I would also blip my throttle before finally releasing the clutch lever to prevent engine braking and locking up - I am riding a twin. I have never ridden a 4 cylinder bike. Its what I was taught to do, when learning and I try to practice it reasonably regularly, checking that it is safe to do so, ie on the road out near our house - not busy. However if there was a car up my behind at the time, I would be seeking safety somewhere like the footpath or other avenue of escape.
  8. I did the HART course and we were taught to apply front and back brake until stop and if u have time or remember pull clutch in. If its a real emergency would you be worried about changing down gears?? Probably not
  9. Engaging the clutch lets the rear wheel spin freely, increasing your braking distance. According to the trainers at HART anyway.

    "Emergency braking" is a little vague, like everything it depends on circumstance - no hard and fast rules.
  10.  Top
  11. I'm not so worried/focused on downshifting bc in an emergency
    stop where its taking a few seconds to stop ya not really going to
    have time to go down thru the gears.

    My main enquiry is whether I pull in the clutch as soon as the brakes
    are applied, or leave the clutch engaged till just prior to stopping
  12. Emergency braking for me is front brake progressively increasing to as hard as possible as the bike straightens itself up.

    I tend to use a bit of rear brake, which I have mixed feelings about. On the occasions where I get into a front wheel skid, it is useful to have a bit of braking power in the rear while I sort out the front. But in the dry, the rear skids more then anything else.

    And clutching/gear-shifting as usual - quick tap of the clutch and click for each gear :)

    I personally think holding the clutch in is a bad habit to get into, but it may be more difficult to control engine braking on a twin (I wouldn't know), and getting stuck in the wrong gear sucks...
  13.  Top
  14. If I'm trying to flat out stop, I use mostly front and a little bit of rear brake.

    If I'm setting up for a corner and coming in too fast, I use a lot more rear, it hunkers the back down and gets a bit of weight off the forks, so I can tip it in.
  15. What Loz said.... :grin:
  16. As an example of how not to do that... I'd just merged lanes on the freeway in peak traffic and was very close to the car in front. He suddenly hit the brakes and I ended up about half a metre from him... didn't think about anything except lots and lots of front brake.

    I ended up having to jump into the service lane because I was in 6th gear, clutch in, at about 20km/h. :?
  17. The 'correct' way as they say, or at least how I've been tought during my L's, P's and stay uprights advanced course is the following.

    Firstly stand the bike upright if you are mid corner or what not to get the most contact patch on the ground.

    Secondly (and these are seperate actions) set up and squeeze the front brake.

    Thirdly apply the clutch fully in and leave it there. This is because while the clutch is engaged the revs no matter how small or high are telling the back wheel to drive foward, and this with increase your stopping distance if you don't have it pulled in.

    Fourth apply the rear brake, only a small amount though because all your weight is at the front the back will be very light so its more prone to lock ups.

    Fifth is to change down the gears so you can get out of the situation quickly, its no use stoping for that car that crashed in front only to get smashed by the truck behind that can't stop.

    The reason you have to do them as seperate actions is how your brain works. Lets say you do front / rear brake at the same time. I'm sure you'll know that if you lock up you let off then reapply the pressure, you put both on and one locks up, which one do you let off? You'll end up having to let off both and reapply both loosing valuble meters in the process.

    Same reason goes for front brake and pulling the clutch in, if you squeeze both your hands in at once then you have to release the brake your body will natrually release both hands. This will again get the clutch engaged and that back wheel driving with more force.

    So the order is - Front brake (first most effective brake) > Clutch (Stop all force going to back wheel) > Rear Brake (assistance brake, also keeps the bike trailing nice) > Change down (to get out of the situation quickly).

    Or in other words Front right > Front left > Rear right > Rear left.

    Its been proven to be the best way to do it.
  18. For EMERGENCY STOPS, I'm with Peleus. Stayupright in Vic teaches the same.

    Good course, I have so much fun, I keep doing them.
  19. I agree. And one other thing..... Hold my breath :grin:
  20. Don't believe this is true, think about it - if you pull the clutch in at 100kph the bike's going to keep moving for a much longer distance than if you downshift a couple of gears and close the throttle. With the throttle closed the engine is not trying to drive the back wheel since the wheel's already turning faster than the engine. The compression of the engine will therefore cause the rear wheel to slow down (or in extreme cases completely lock). Think about it, how often do you ever see a fully-laden semi trying to stop using brakes alone in neutral.