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Painting Wheels and Rearsets

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by haksu, May 21, 2010.

  1. Hi folks,
    I've got a white 2010 ZX6R and want to get my wheels and rearsets painted gold.
    Does anyone know:

    1) how much this would cost roughly?
    2) how long it would take?
    3) who can provide such a service?

  2. Depends on how you want it done.

    Paint, anodise or powder coat?

    Also do the tyres need to be remove? Do the parts need to be removed form the bike? What are the condition of the parts? So they need to be bead blasted first?

    If they parts are 99% ready for painting and you are only painting, the about $250-300 and it should almost be overnight.

    If they have to do everything including striping the parts off the bike and stripping old paint etc and maybe $600 at a rough guess.
  3. I think I'll go for a powder coat, I like the matte look.

    I can remove the bits myself.
    Parts are brand new and still have paint and clear coat from factory on them.

    I should budget for the $600 mark then.
  4. Powder coat matte? All powder coat I've seen has been a gloss finish.

    If you are removing the parts from the bike, they will still need to be blasted to remove the existing coat. $1-200

    Powder coat $2-300

    So $600 should be heeps
  5. Just a question...why paint / anodise the original rearsets ??


    Pete, no doubt, would be able to organise rearsets in gold to suit...

    I'm guessing the cost would end up about the same, and as a bonus you would have adjustable rearsets.
  6. Powdercoating would be a cheaper way to go over painting, pretty durable too.
    Talk to a few powdercoaters and find out how much of the prep work they do and how much they charge.

    I used a now frills powdercoater. He sand blasts, coats and bakes what you bring him.
    For the wheels you need to get the tyres removed, discs off and also the bearings out. My usual tyre seller removed the bearings for nothing when he stripped the tyres off. Takes about 2 minutes.
    The second wheel I had done I removed and fitted the bearings myself, use new bearings when refitting, pretty easy.

    Next you need to make up and fit some timber covers for any places you don't want powdercoating i.e. bearing housing, disc mounting points, internal threads etc.

    Drop off at the powdercoaters for sand blasting and powdercoating.

    You can get a gloss finish or a matt finish.

    I paid $45 per wheel for sand blasting and powdercoating.
    The pegs required dissasembly. I ended up with seven pieces including a heat shield for the exhaust. Cost for these pieces was $25.

    As you can see if you are able to do the prep work the cost is very reasonable.

    You only need to remove the bearings for the sand blasting. If you could get a couple of big rubber bungs and a threaded rod to seal the bearings you could leave them in.
    You would have to repace the rubber with timber after the sand blasting for the powdercoating and baking, though. As the wheel bearings are pretty cheep and easy to remove and refit I didnt bother with the bungs but I have used this method on the swing arm where the bearings were a lot dearer and harder to remove.
  7. I'm about to prep a frame & swing arm for powdercoating. If i make up some aluminium covers for the swing arm pivot and linkage pivot bearings (i dont want to remove/replace them), will they survive the powdercoating and baking process? I dont mind re-packing the bearings with grease afterwards.
  8. It's not the powdercoating and baking thats the problem for the bearings, provided there is no plastic in there, as in a sealed bearing.
    It's the sandblasting required before applying powdercoat thats the worry.
    Provided you can get the covers to make an air tight seal that would be OK.
    You would have to be pretty sure the nuts on the rod holding the covers on would not back off at all and loosen up while sand blasting.

    The powdercoater I used recomended a couple of bath plugs pushed in tight with a length of booker rod holding them in, which is what I did. ( I was quoted $300 for new bearings, removal and refitting. Two bath plugs from Clark Rubber cost me $10 ). Just make sure the fit is tight around the rod as well and also use a washer. I also wiped out as much grease as I could beforehand and repacked after. As added insurance I also packed some oily rag in there before putting the plugs in. No grit got in there.

    The only problem is you need to make an extra trip to replace the rubber plugs with the aluminium blanks before powdercoating and baking because the rubber will melt and make a mess of the swingarm when it gets baked.
  9. gzige - thanks for the detailed reply.

    i just went and spoke to my local powdercoater (Black Dog Powder Coating in Carrum Downs). He said some items wont need to be sandblasted, e.g. the frame and swing arm. The only prep is to rough it up with a scotch pad, and also, if it's dirty, get some of that corrosive alloy wheel cleaner onto it.

    His solution for bearing protection was to simply mask it up with tape safe for the baking process (200 deg C). Plenty of places sell tape that is safe to those temps.
  10. No worries.
    Yeah, if you don't have to sand blast makes it real easy.