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Painting Clear Lacquer ~ Front Forks

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Garn Cook, Nov 27, 2012.

  1. #1 Garn Cook, Nov 27, 2012
    Last edited: Nov 27, 2012
    I have recently discovered a method of finishing lower front fork legs to how they looked originally.
    Of course, I'm not talking about "upside down forks". I'm talking about the old linished finish which is done with a scouring pad about a meter long wrapped around the lower forks which are clamped upright in a vice. The method was outlined by a German friend (Z1 Achim) from another forum.

    What I would like to talk about is the method of clear lacquering these fork-legs.
    After carrying out a research on products available, I came across a product called "Glisten".
    It fits the bill,,, non-yellowing and hardends (via a two-pack mix) to obtain a surface that is not easily stone chipped.

    After mixing the product as prescribed, I chose an expensive bristle brush to apply the mix. My problem then became evident..... my mix was too thick. I read on the can use special POR solvent to thin mix. It was Saturday afternoon.... No stores were open that sell the product.
    I had on hand; Mineral turps, Lacquer thinners, Enamel thinners, Acetone which do I use? I took a punt and used lacquer thinners. It worked, however, the stuff was not giving the desired finish, instead it was leaving a thick layer of of goo with runners everywhere.

    The forks look good and do "glisten", however, don't get too close... Not happy with clear lacquer result.
    Should had been advised to buy the special thinners.

  2. You probably need to spray it for optimal results, and yes, thinners would have helped by the sound of it.
  3. Sounds like it's just an epoxy resin, in which case acetone would have been the better choice for a thinner.

    From the MSDS their special thinner appears to just be diluted xylene, which is a little better since it doesn't evaporate as quickly as acetone (though the vapours when it does evaporate are a lot more harmful).
  4. I've used this on a valve cover I refinished years ago. When mixed according to the instructions, it is a *very* thin consistency. You can apply it with a brush, and the stroke marks will flow out nicely, but I sprayed mine 'coz that's easier for me. It does take a long time to dry (harden?), and you've got to keep the piece in a dust-free environment for at least an hour IIRC. Good product when used as directed.

  5. best product I've used for a clear is KBC diamond finish. Used it to preserve the mirror finish polishing on my tank (see dp). Been about 6 months no yellowing or rust, except only in the places I missed. Sprays from a rattle can after just cleaning with acetone.
  6. #6 Garn Cook, Nov 30, 2012
    Last edited: Nov 30, 2012
    I thought "Glisten" mixed in correct proportions, would flow nicely.
    Perhaps, in the absence of the correct thinners, I should have used less hardener? Anyway, next time I'll have the correct thinners available.
    It was a very hot day, this may have altered the chemistry of the thick goo that was the result of my stuff up!
  7. No, less hardener will just result in unset resin. A certain amount is always required, setting time being adjusted by using faster or slower hardeners (different chemistry).

    Thinning doesn't affect the ratio, so won't prevent the resin from curing. Temp or humidity is unlikely to have made it thick. It's either the way the stuff normally is (forcing you to buy their thinner), or it may have reacted with something that was on the forks.
    • Like Like x 1
  8. Don't ever go outside of the tech data sheet, by going outside of this you are taking a risk. Don't use straight solvents as has been suggested. The appropriate solvent will have the correct mix to give you optimal performace of said product. Don't change mixing ratios, they are here for a reason.

    Humidity and temperature will effect the product. Temp will change the viscosity once mixed and will also change the flash off times which will result in different flow rates. Hardner selection is more to control cure, where solvent selection will change flash off rates.

    Remember coatings companies spend million in R&D, being a backyard chemist is not ideal.
    • Like Like x 1
  9. That's true of 3M globally but the smaller companies don't spend anywhere near that much. I've done R&D work for one of them, since their R&D department consisted of just one person (and he certainly wasn't getting paid millions a year).

    I've also never encountered any issues with using straight solvents, even acetone if it's fresh and hasn't absorbed moisture from the air works fine. Really the only thing you could dilute a solvent with is another solvent - and having found a slightly more detailed MSDS for the proper thinner for Glisten it seems to be just a mix of xylene and ethylbenzene (which is always found in xylene anyway).

    Acrylic thinner would be the closest match since they're usually a mix of methylbenzene and xylene, though since they often also contain acetone you'd have to use a fresh unopened container. Of course probably a lot easier, and not much more expensive, to just buy the proprietary thinners.
  10. jd, once again I don't care for your opinion based on google information. I'll trust what I know as a tradesman Automotive Painter of 20 years, working for two coatings companies and running my own business.
    Seriously, you must have the most boring fcuking life of any person on this forum. To repeatedly spend so much time searching and reading insurance pds', coatings msds' to prove your point...Get a life dude. Or just go for a fcuking ride!
  11. Cazzo just because you don't understand something does not mean anyone who does got all their information from Google. Where do you think the information on the internet actually comes from?

    Only thing I had to look up was the MSDS, to confirm my suspicions as to the ingredients (rather than just assuming I was right). If I use an external source, I will acknowledge the fact. Don't really care if you believe it or not, I provided the information for the OP's benefit since they seemed to have an interest in understanding what happened and how to prevent it happening again.

    Completely OT but I believe this will be the second time I've had to point out that insurance PDS was something you requested that I post up. Don't know why you keep bringing it up, especially when it actually proved that what you thought was true was in fact wrong. :confused:
  12. Fukcing enough!! You two are like bloody children.

    Cazzo, stop having a crack and being an arsehole

    JD, stop bloody responding

    Stop it fcukin'

    Official warning *No more!*
    • Like Like x 1
  13. #13 Garn Cook, Dec 8, 2012
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2012
    Anyway, heres what they look like..
    Looks alright from a distance. RegardZ.
  14. #14 Garn Cook, Dec 9, 2012
    Last edited: Dec 9, 2012
    I guess, this is somewhat better than how the forks were...
    [​IMG] RegardZ.