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Oils Aint Oils....

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by Mizz ZZR, Jul 22, 2004.

  1. Or are they?

    Or did I just give my age away??? :shock:

    Just want to generate some discussion on what brands of oil you’re all using, and why.
  2. I just bought some oil and new oil filter for my HONDA SPADA (VT 250)

    I bought: Shell Advance sx 4 Stroke (15W - 50)

    Why: cause the dude at the shop told me too.

    I am really interested to read more threads on this topic so I am able to make a more educated decision next time.
  3. Go Synthetic 8)

  4. I cant remember which one but I believe that one of the synthetics can cause clutch slippage. (I think it was one of the shell ones..)
  5. Thats a good question Karen . Since ive only done 220 kays and haven't had the need to put any in , i to would be like to know what others use . And yes u r showing ur age but then again i remember those ads to :shock: .
  6. Depends on the bike, condition of the motor and what it's used for
  7. i used to use Mobil 1 in the old zzr250 and zx9r

    never found clutch slippage an issue
  8. i used castrol magnatec , you know the one with the little magnet thingys that stick to the wall of the motor :LOL:

    if not that , penuts oils, canola oil :LOL:
  9. Grommet you are a peanut!

    Motul, Mobile, Aral Castrol are all preminum lubricants. Depends on what makes you feel better, oil that costs a heap is going to make a difference when you are flying around the world circuits, but around our local roads, $10 a litre or $60 a litre isn't going to make all that much difference to your engine, to your wallet...perhaps.
  10. used mobil 1 cause i worked for mobil..never payed for it.

    now work for bp...might try their synthetic oil and see how that tests.
    after the initial run in period
  11. Use the cheaper brands or lower quality and change more often or spend the dollars up front and change less often.But please dont use Groberts1 peanut oil :LOL:
    But on a more serious note....use the best oil you can afford...nuff said!
  12. the guy at the bike shop i stopped to get some chain lube at suggested that any bike less than 5 years old is worthwhile using synthetic in - he suggested that the 98 suzi would be worthwhile using it in as well - currently has shell 4 but considering the change next time, before a long haul to melb
  13. i used shell advance ultra (fully-synthetic) on my Yamaha YZF600R (1997)

    runs very nicely, no problems with clutch or otherwise
  14. I use the Shell Semi-Synth 15W-50 in my VFR
    The 15W thicker oil (than typ 10W) has smoothed out the gearbox....

    I think its the Shell Advance SX stuff.... $30 / 4L

    Very happy...
  15. I'm using shell advance fully sythn and have never noticed a problem with the clutch at all. No complaint either way, it does it's job and the bike runs fine.

    I have heard that to help run an engine in it is better to use mineral oil ( I assume it is a "coarser" oil and "scours" [for want of a better word] the engine a little to take the burrs etc off ) and then switch to synth.
  16. Uhh, I've no idea how to change the oil in the babyblade. So I'm assuming that the oil I use is whatever the hell Redwing decides to put in it every several thousand kilometres.
  17. All wet clutch motorcycles should use oils without friction modifiers this way you will not have clutch slippage. All car oils use friction modifiers. A clutch should not slip unless it is worn or mal-adjusted. Oils do not take burs of metal edges. Just think about it for a minute, if burs on gears are being worn off prematurely then you you will have lots of nasty little metal bits floating around in you gearbox happily wearing away other metal objects like bearings, rings etc,etc.
    Hope this helps
  18. Castrol r4 for the diesels and r2 for the mowers.

  19. i'd like to ammend my earlier post ... i've noticed i am actually getting a bit of clutch slip around 10,000rpm (i.e. heavy accleration). i doubt it's the oil though, probably my poor old clutch plates
  20. might add my 2c to this topic started by me ol'mate MissZZR

    based on my many moons of motorcycling, it is my experience that-
    1) never use a car oil in a bike.. Your engine might like it (even though the viscosity is probably wrong) but your gearbox and wet clutch will hate it. A bike's gearbox bearings and selectors (dogs) need protection that is not in any car engine oil. ditto for the clutch.The oil companies will tell you the same thing.
    2) never use any oil with a friction modifier in a bike with a wet clutch
    (unless you like replacing clutch plates :LOL: )
    3) always flush and refill a brand new bike with the oil from the manufacturer. That gets the last of the tiny manufacturing bits out and then lets the bike run in as the manufacturer wants. The oil companies and bike manufacturers will tell you (and it is my experience) that fully synthetic oils do not let a bike run-in. Wait before you move to fully-syn
    4) Use of a synthetic oil versus a mineral oil is a choice for the individual and their hippocket. A synthetic oil and a mineral based oil will end with the same additives in them, when specified for use in a bike. The difference is in the base oil stock. oh..and the cost
    and the brand?..your choice but use the usual reputable..Castrol Motul Shell etc
    a hint- if you find you have gear selection problems, try a different brand
    you may be amazed.. (my old Kwaka HATES Shell)