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oils aint oils..

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by jphanna, Aug 26, 2010.

  1. hey i intend to get a 'factory service' once a year, and i intend to do my own oil changes for the rest of the year. (the chain gets very well looked after weekly)



    if you do an avarage of 500-1000 kms a month, in mainly hills, and a bit of open road riding...how often would you do a home oil change?

    i went to my kawasaki dealer yesterday and he sold me MOTUL fully synthethic oil for $70.00 4 litres. is that about right?
     
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  2. I will probably get rotten eggs thrown at me for suggesting this, but its more about having the corrrect weight or oil with the right characteristics and most importantly HOW OFTEN YOU CHANGE it than wether or not its fully synthetic and cost a heap of dough.

    Unless you are tear assing round a track every weekend, a fully synthetic oil is probably over kill, semi synthetic is probably fine

    find out oil you should be using, learn what the numbers and letters mean, then go out to supercheap find a similar oil and save yourself some dough

    you can also save on the filter, when I change the oil on the wifes CBR1000F, I use $40 semi synthetic oil and a Zyco MX5 oil filter, costs me <$60 all up and the bike runs fine....... bike forums are great for finding out this sort of information

    Like I said though, the most important thinig is to change the oil Regularly, the first thing to go in an oil is its shear strength, the first sign on a bike is you will feel the gear change get a little clunkier.

    you dont have to spend a fortune on oil.

    my 2c

    OZ
     
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  3. i went to a kawaski dealer, with my servie book. we found the correct grade, and he said they only use motul in all their servicing. its specially designed for motorbikes. the is a picture of 2 motorbikes on the oil container.

    how is it that soem people use castrol magnatec or mobil 1 if its supposed to work in conjunction with the wet clutch etc....

    is thsi bullcrap being spun to collect more $$$ from beginners like me?
     
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  4. My mechanic dude tells me off for running fully synthetic in my bike, and insists at best i run a semi-synthetic.
    He suggests either Castrol 4T or Shell... whichever their semi-synthetic is...

    For my bike its basically 2 litres, i change the filter every time - im not bothered letting it go through two changes, rather keep the bike engine oil sweet.

    Incl filter...
    Mineral gunk = $45
    Semi synthetic = $50-55
    Full synthetic = $60

    Supposedly mineral lasts about 4000km, semi about 5000km, and fully about 6000km... i cant vouch for it as while ive done several oil changes, i do them religiously at 4000km regardless.

    I would stick to motorcycle oil, the additives are where it really counts for bikes vs car oil.
     
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  5. The motorbike pic adds a significant premium - it's a niche market, and ordinary users cannot tell whether using a more expensive product is better or not, so there's a tendency to spend more as insurance. However, as a previous poster mentioned, oils are degraded over time, so how often you change it makes more of a difference than which oil you use.

    I have had no problems running Delo 400 multigrade in my bike, and I know others here on the forum swear by it as well. It's a multipurpose fleet oil, designed for petrol and diesel engines which happens to meet the motorbike specs. I think it costs a few bucks per litre, but we buy it in drums.

    The only thing to watch out for is that the oil doesn't contain friction modifiers, as apparently these play havok with wet clutches.

    Edited as I posted by accident when my post was half written.
     
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  6. yup, just use the correct semisynthetic oil for your bike, change it regularly (4-5000km) new filter every second change and it will all be good

    OZ
     
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  7. what about business about the clutch wont work with regular car oil...it HAS to be Mbike oil?

    i bought for my eliminator (service man at kawaski advised) Motul 10W-40 oil. if i got castrol magntec 10W-40, will that mean my cluch wont work?
     
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  8. my bike uses 10W-40 SG oil, if you match up the letters after the numbers, you should be pretty right :)

    OZ
     
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  9. Choose the correct grade for your bike firstly.

    I don't think semi-synth or fully synth matters specifically. My dealer flat out told me that if I buy motul fully synth I'd be wasting my money and all they use across the board is motul 5100 semi-synth. They suggested that the fully synth can be too slippery in some wet clutches too as another reason why they prefer the semi synth motul 5100.

    What IS important is how often you change your oil. Infrequent oil changes will have a far worse effect on your bike than semi or full synth.

    ;)
     
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  10. Some clutches don't like car type mineral oil. I'm yet to hear of anyone having trouble with fully synthetic car oil.

    So no, it doesn't have to be motorbike oil. In fact I can't remember the last time I use motorbike oil.
     
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  11. They probably get a payout from Motul for using it as their stock service oil. It is a good oil, but as you'll be changing the oil every 3 to 6,000km (depending on bike & riding style) then as long as it is the right grade then you'll be fine. If you want to use thicker oil you can (usually to help with high oil consumption) but going to a thinner oil is not recommended - the engine is designed with specific tolerances in mind and the oil makes a difference. Too thin and it may not protect you engine well enough.

    As an example, I am currently running my '84 GSX-1100 on Gulf Western (car) 20W-50. This is thicker than the specified 10W-40, but will not hurt as it will merely take a bit longer to heat up and provide a bit more protection to the engine.

    So, in summary you will most likely be fine to run 'car' oil in your bike. From experience I would recommend Valvoline 10W-40 (or 15W-40), Castrol Sport, or Shell 4T 15W-40. Most anything with the right rating will be fine, though. Before you ask, the first number is related to the thickness of the base oil stock. The last number is the most important, as it related to how much the oil thins out when hot.

    Cheers - boingk
     
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  12. +1 for Caltex Delo 400. Bike runs sweetly, temperatures stay the same, clutch is perfect, gear shifting is slick from first kilometre to last and I save a heap. I used to use Motul 5100 only to have gear shifting steadily get worse the nearer I got to the service interval, but my big, beautiful CB1300 is as happy as a lark on Delo and will continue to be so.
     
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  13. Another +1 on Caltex Delo 400 in my CBR1100xx blackbirds, it is flawless.
    K
     
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  14. I too go heavier in summer. The standard manufacturer specs are written of cooler climates.

    Don't dismiss the importance of the lower "W" number in winter. The lower this is the better your oil flow will be on start up.

    So if a manufacturer specs 10W-40, 5W-40 is always better and 5W-50 is better in summer.
     
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  15. As a word of warning: the additives used to achieve the wide viscosity range are apparently the first part of the oil to break down. So it's fine to use 5W-50 if you're super regular with oil changes, but it might not be a good rule for everyone.

    Also, manufacturers usually specify different oils for different climates.

    Edit: hit post button by mistake
     
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  16. I think the whole oil change thing is a rip-off. I just drain my oil once a year (or two) and pour it through a sieve (I'd do it more often, but my girlfriend gets pissed off when dinner tastes like Castrol). I then let it settle, heat it in a saucepan and pour it through the coffee percolator to remove the smaller lumps, then put it back in the bike again. I separate the aluminium and steel bits using a magnet and melt them down on the barbie to cast new pistons, bearings etc which I seem to need quite frequently.(y)
     
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  17. I almost bit
     
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  18. I change the oil and filters not to get ripped off but I doubt I'd ever quite go that far.......:roll:
    Besides, it's be dog house for me....hehe
     
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  19. You want to try stress relieving a crank in the oven. Doesn't half make your rice pudding taste funny :D.
     
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  20. I really, really hope there are two metaphors going on there.
     
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