Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

Oil filters and Engine Oil...

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' at netrider.net.au started by Grunge, Jun 14, 2006.

  1. Hi everyone,

    I just wanted to get a bearing on some prices and reccomendations for good Oil Filters and Motor oil for my '89 zxr250.

    I've gotten more confident as a result of having been at the maintenance session by PNUT and VTRBob (Thanx guys!) and I'm going to try to do a basic service on my bike by the end of this month.

    How much do oil filters cost, are there any particular brands I should pay attention to (or are they the same type of filters as cars?)
    as well as that, with regards to engine oil, what are some of the good brands available and what should I be avoiding.

    Any tips will help. Thanks guys! :]
  2. I just bought a genuine Honda filter for VFR800 about $20.

    Air filter was $80!!!!!!!!! next time i'll convert to Fina or K&N if there available for the VFR
  3. If you heard what I said at that day, I was getting strong magnets to put on the filter to help it 'catch' stuff. They arrived today :grin: Example, http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7613531536&rd=1&sspagename=STRK:MEWN:IT&rd=1

    Also another product to get info about is at http://filtermag.com/tech.php?PHPSESSID=17657459806c4590b2a41b7be40748a2

    I am going to use K & N oil filters for my bike. Do you have a service manual to check info from? If not, get hold of one (either online or paper version) that contains a wealth of information I'd say for what you are looking for :)
  4. A K&N or Unifilter is a must. May be a large investment initially but in the long run it will save you money and put less wear on the bike, provided you service it regularly.
    Bare in mind that some bikes require a rejet after installing one though, particularly if you also have aftermarket pipes.
  5. Undii, kewl that makes total sense, how do you stick your magnets on the filter? Do you just leave it there or do you tape it with something?

    I've looked up the service manual I had, they didn't say about what model/part number the oil filter had to be, so really I have to ask the stores. The only thing they mentioned was the viscocity and grading of the oil I had to use.

    What brands of oil does everyone else use? I was thinking of using Castrol. does anyone have any reccomendations? (I should have checked out what VTRBob used when I was there.)
  6. A rejet? Uh oh, wot's that?
    I have an aftermarket carbon fibre exhaust, but i think my pipes are the same (it's all rusted and everything.)
  7. No offence but they both look like snake oil to me.
    Most dirt particles won't be magnetic conductors so won't stick. If you're really paranoid and want additional protection to that offered by K&N style filters then look at Filter Skins. I run them on my dirtbike and they provide an additional level of dust entry prevention.
  8. Ok, now this is something i know a bit about, while magnets CAN be a good idea and are fitted to many gearboxes and hydraulic systems they can also cause major problems IF THEY ARE NOT CHAECKED REGULARLY.

    They collect many of the small ferrous particals that are some times to small to be caught in your standard 'nominal' micron rating filters (what is the rating on bike filters?? 10um??).
    this in its self is good (less metal going round engine) but what tends to happen is people forget to check the damb things or use them as an excuse not to change filters as often.
    what then happens is you get all the itsy bitsy metal particals collecting on the magnet and then breaking loose from the magnet as mutch bigger conglomerates of particals, bad, very bad.

    the best spot for the magnet is in a low flow area of the sump as lower flow = less force trying to break the particals away from the magnet, the problem on a bike is that just about everything is alloy and the magnet has no where to stick to, the last thing you want is the magnet floating around in the oil.

    personaly if you want to go down this track i'd look for a magnetised sump plug.
  9. Yeah but metal shavings from breaking in my brand new bike are magnetic conductors or so I thought. Plus for $30 it's ok peace of mind as well :D

    Grunge, I assume I'll just be putting them to the filter unaided. I'll find out when the bike arrives soon :grin:

  10. Ah ok, well I'm changing the oil filter a few times in the initial few months I have it so the 'forget to check/replace' shouldn't apply in my case. I guess I should get a magnetised sump plug after that or something :) Cheers for the info
  11. a lot of the material from break in will be non ferrous (not magnetic) but then some of it will be, on a new engine a couple of quick filter changes is probably best option (just the filter not the oil)

    as i said, take in to consideration carefully where/how you install them and check them regularly
  12. a oil filter should cost around 15 dollars and motul 5100 is 50
  13. Hey has anyone heard of "Hi-flo" filters?
    Are they any good.
    Or should I just go with Motul filters?

    What makes a filter different, other than certain price and added features or branding.

    Again I appreciated everyone's help so far!
  14.  Top
  15. I have mate and they are as good as anyother your going to get, and as for which filter, they are all much for muchness, especially if your doing regular oil and filter changes...
  16. Trust me on this one - magnets work.
    Most new cars, from my experience have magnets on their engine drain plugs, but mainly on the transmission and diffs - I have pulled a magnet on an EA auto trans with a 3cm trail of debris. certainly, the engines edon't usually need magnets on filters or drain plugs, that is what the filter is for. however, I have come to view magnets as a necessity on systems without filters - I.E. transmissions and differentials, from production cars to axles that weigh as much as a car (dana and meritor truck axles)

    oh, and if I were going to fit a magnet to a sump plug, its a case of drilling and tapping an M2 or M3 thread into the plug, and drilling a hole through the magnet.. (just make sure you keep the magnet cold to avoid stuffing up the alignment of the thing)
  17. Just a warning with neodynium magnets. This is on the cover of them.

    Do not cut or grind the magnets as the magnetic material is explosive

  18. I did, and I can't find my Kawa ZXR250. (Japanese Import)
    Either it's known as something else that I don't know or I'm blind.

    If I don't figger this out as I want to make the service next saturday, I'll just stick with the Hi-Flo, as they also produce K&N.
  19. Personally i dont know why its not the norm for a magnet on the sump plug :shock: Well it was standard on my 75 z900 :grin: Oh so was a kick starter :grin: New tecknology smarter :eek: Maybe sometimes but not always :cool: