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Oil Filter

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' at netrider.net.au started by tunelliner, May 16, 2008.

  1. Hey guys sorry for this, but i'm thinkin of doing my own oil filter and oil change for my little hornet

    i have searched both NR and manuals (maybe i havent looked hard enough), but i was just wondering what type of oil filter does my hornet need?

    The only thing i could find was that it needs 10W-40 oil

    thanks in advance :)

  2. your local bike shop (where you buy the oil) will tell you which one. They have a Big Book of Bike Filters. I would ring them first to make sure they have it in stock, and save yourself an extra trip. The K&N filters are my favourite cos you can use a 17mm socket on them. But aside from that any brand should be ok.
  3. Good on you for giving it a go. It's one of the best ways to save money and it's easy to do.

    The filter is simple. Go to local general bike part shop and ask for a filter for the Hornet. Alternatively go to a Honda dealer, though it will probably be dearer.

    I like K&N filters as they have the nut welded on them and it just makes the job so much easier. If you filter is readily accessibly you won't need the nut.

    As for the oil, you need to get a "bike" mineral oil or a fully synthetic oil. I go the fully synthetic myself as I believe they are better than mineral oils and they are cheaper than bike specific oils.

    Some car oils work but they have to be "SJ" or less. Don't quote me on the SJ as it might be a different class. Basically you will be lucky to find an oil that qualifies to that old of class. Most have been "updated". what you are trying to avoid is the friction modifiers that come with modern car mineral oils.

    So stick to the fully synthetic.

    Oh and it's up to you but in summer you can run a #W-50 oil. I believe the 40 is too light for Australian conditions.
  4. Don't forget to get your hands on a bike stand of some sort - it will make sump drainage and refilling a lot easier.
  5. thanks guys ... im definately willing to give it a go, im currently in the process of buying a rear stand and what not.

    i figured this would be the best way to learn more about bikes, and also save some money.

    ALso figured that if i ever have a bung up, i'd be more prepared and have the knowhow to fix a bike right?

    i had a little incident at a fair pace with a concrete barrier the other day, i had to off and adjusts some stuff here and there to make sure the bike was ok. i found it rather fun tho

    so ibast i was just wondering. so it would be alright to use a synthetic oil (whether its for a car or bike) instead of a specific 4 stroke motorcycle oil?

  6. just goto the bike shop and get it, its piss easy on the hornet, you should be able to take the old one off, and put the new on by hand.

    buy motorbike specific oil, goto super cheap or some place similar and ask for some 10W-40 oil they should have 3-4 different brands... i buy fuchs.. dunno why :)
  7. Whats wrong with normal car oil? I just did a change on my new bike, GPX250 and I used normal car oil as it didn't say not too in my manual.
    I matched the viscosity to the conditions of the climate over here in Perth like it said, but nothing was mentioned about motorbike specific oil.
  8. As long as its the right classifications of oil listed in the manual (yes it is in the manual) and its not cheap nasty oil, it should be sweet.
  9. ive used penzoil and shell car oil (semi synth20w-50) in the VTR250 and the XR4 and both yeilded interesting results with the clutch. i know heaps of people use car oil in their bikes on this forum, but its not somthing ill be doing again, an extra ten bucks an oil change doesnt bother me.

    read roarins thread here:


    should provide you with a bit of reading, but still very interesting. roarin swears by deisil oil in his RVF400.

    personally i use semi synth, motul5100 for 42bucks for 4 litres i consider is good value. ive also used shell and mobil alot and imho the motul comes out best when its time to change.

    oil filters? should be piss finding one for the hornet, they use they same as the CBR250. i also use the k&n, 17 hex drive means no arseing around with a universal oil filter tool and also means i can get the torque right on the filter itself.

  10. Bike specific oil is just mineral oil with a minimum amount of additives. It should be cheaper than standard car oil, but it's dearer because it's "special".

    FULLY synthetic oil is better than car type mineral oils, so use that.

    So if you are using bike specific mineral oil, you are actually paying more for a significantly inferior product.

    There is some argument that synthetic oils may cause older bikes to leak because of the gaskets used, but even if it were so, you shouldn't have to worry with your bike.

    the additives in standard car oils cause the clutch to slip on many bikes, so avoid those.
  11. yeah I think that is a problem I am having with my bike, I have noticed that even with the clutch fully in if I am in gear when I start the bike there is a real lurch forward, also if I try and duck walk the bike with it in gear it is REAL hard to get it moving with the clutch in, I have to switch it to neutral to get it moving.

    So I think I am gonna go and get some bike specific oil on payday.
  12. This is just the way some bikes are mate. MY suzuki is like that, be the trumpy isn't.
  13. I don't know exactly how the oil is different but I know why....

    Cars don't run wet clutches, most bikes do. That is to say the clutch plates are immersed in engine oil the whole time. This has a couple of benefits, it takes much more abuse practising wheelies or races starts before it overheats, and a light clutch in a big bike can last for 70K and more. On the down side oil is slippery stuff and using the wrong type can significantly reduce the grip of your clutch plates.

    I'll second the Motul 5100 semi-synthetic, and I change oil and filter every 5K. It's cheap insurance.
  14. Most bikes (or so I've heard) use the engine oil to oil the gearbox.

    Unless youv'e got a spare couple grand to rebuild the engine just stick to the recomended oil.

    Go to your local bike shop and tell them what make bike and what year it is and they will tell you what oil filter and oil to buy they also usualy take the weather into consideration.

    Personaly I use mobile full synthetic. Mainly becuase my old man uses and I scab from his stash :grin:.

    Good luck. letus know how you go.
  15. Is that Mobil 1 Full Synthetic? As in the car engine oil that I have been using in my cars for years, ie not bike specific oil?

    I find it odd that a Synthetic oil is better than a mineral oil, when sythetic is 'slipperier' (technical jargon) than mineral oil, would someone care to go into more detail?
  16. To make mineral oils more slippery they add friction modifiers. these particles impregnate themselves into the clutch plates and that's what causes the clutch to slip.

    Fully synthetic oils don't have these friction modifiers. and yes I believe mobil 1 is fully synthetic.

    some people claim they can run car mineral oils, but that is the exception rather than the norm, I believe. I think you need the right combination of clearances, spring pressure and clutch plate material to get away with it.
  17. i'lll give an update when i get the time to do my own oil filter + oil change :)

    we'll see how it goes! :)
  18. Your dawdling if the change takes more than 30mins...

    Getting the oil is the easy part but, be wary that not everyone in an auto shop knows what they're on about re oil. I had one guy try to sell me 5 litres of some racing bike oil (I have a VTR250) that was going to cost me $98! So I played it safe and went to the local dealer for advice and the filter. Filter=$6 Oil=$19.

    Changing your own oil is one of the easiest ways to save money.
  19. got it done today... it was all messy and fun

    i live in an apartment.. don't think the poeple will be happy with the mess i made in the undercover carpark lol

    atleast i tried to clean it up :D
  20. Ha ha! Maybe we should've mentioned that you kinda need a tray under the bike to stop staining...