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Oil filter how tight?

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by HeavyNinja, Apr 19, 2016.

  1. coming from car servicing where you only do the filter up hand tight, is it the same for a bike? I noticed my manual said not to but without a centre stand it is almost impossible to get my filter wrench in there. I rode it for 100km on sunday no probs, but after a ride yesterday noticed the distinct smell of oil burning on the exhaust. I did spill oil on the exhaust and enginge block when taking the old filter off and wiped most away (didn't degrease) so am wondering for safety sake should I try and get my filter wrench in there and tighten it more? Next time I will buy a k&n filter over the genuine kwaka one as it has a 17mm nut welded to it and would make life much easier.

  2. I do snug plus quarter turn for spin on filters. My bike has a cap and bolt thing though so I torque wrench that to whatever the book says.
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  3. Unsure exactly about the Minja service routine, but just as an example, my GSXR service manual calls for spun on until the seal kisses the sealing surface, plus two full turns.
    Used one of the K&N filters with the 17mm nut for the last change, which made it easy and meant I didn't need to buy a dedicated filter wrench.
    • Like Like x 1
  4. Yeah the book has a torque setting yet the oem filters have no nut on the end to use a wrench. I might just do some contortionist style movements and get my filter wrench and tighten it more. I have to remove 400ml of oil as it is as I put 2.6L in and manual (mine was missing the page just checked net) says capacity is 2.2L. I have a syringe and some hose from work, so can draw out 60ml at a time until the level is right. It is all a learning curve still. Give me a car and I will do plugs, oil etc anyday, I have got a lot to learn about bikes.
  5. I will be getting the k&n next. I find it ammusing the manual has a set torque for the filter but oem filters have no nut to make life easier.
  6. Was that the capacity for an oil change, or for an oil + filter change? You'll generally require more oil if you are also changing the filter. E.g. Suzuki quote 2.2L for an oil change, and 2.5 for oil + filter change for my bike.
    I've always used quoted capacities as a guideline, but ensure that the level in the inspection window is correct regardless.

    Not much different to requiring 2 turns after snug. Suzuki specifically sell a filter wrench for the job that allows the filter to be tightened without crushing the casing.
  7. The 2.2 is filter change. My manual seemed to be missing the pages with that info, so I just filled it till the sight glass was full when warm and level. Now I know there is at least 400ml too much, so will syphon some out after work with syringe. Hopefully no damage as I did 100km over full.
  8. Usual procedure is to fill to the sight glass level, start engine run engine for a short time so the oil filter fills up, stop engine then after a short time check level with bike on level ground, add or remove excess oil if necessary.
    When you leave the bike for a while the oil level will show overfull as oil drains down from the top end of the engine. Engine oil should be checked several minutes after the engine has been operating for correct level.
  9. Yeah the sight glass was full when warm, but it showing beyond the max marker. So will remove oil tonight before I go for a ride.
  10. Service manuals can be had pretty cheap... A bit of overfill usually isn't a big deal; stunters often do it intentionally.
  11. There's a tool you can purchase which sits over the filter and has a nut on the end of it.

    This is what you should get and torque it up to the correct settings.

    I've found the k&n nuts break off when you attempt to remove them.

    Be very careful about how tight or loose you do it. I had done about 100 oil changes where I use to do it hand tight plus a little more with no problems. But one day I did have a problem.

    Oil getting pumped all over my rear tyre didn't end well just as I turned into the corner.......

    Fair to say I always torque it correctly now. Apparently too tight is just as bad as too loose.
  12. You mean a oil filter cup wrench? (their are various sized ones)
    What you want to do is wet the oring with new oil then screw it up handtight followed by a 1/4 clockwise turn to slightly compress the oring so it doesn't leak. (Similar to new spark plugs).
    Know the feeling of crappy oil filter design, did one on a Ducati over the weekend

    oilFilter. DSC_0026[1].JPG
  13. Yes that's the one. That's what I always used to do mate but no longer......I will always torque it up correctly now.

    Watching your bike on fire isn't fun.....
  14. Might go grab one and a torque wrench after work and do it up right. The smell of oil worried me, I knew I spilt some but had wiped it off and ridden 100km after. Last night I could smell it again and could swear I saw drops in the wet driveway following the bike in, but also thought if oil had been leaking I wouldn't have gotten round the corners, especially with wet roads
  15. Measure up the filter as the car ones supercheap/autobarn stock may be to large/small.
    I wouldn't get to carried away about torque values, especially if your intention is spending it on a wrench under $100.

    Spend the $30 on some rags and degreaser, even a little bit oil over the headers can smell pretty catastrophic.
    Don't dismiss the idea that the sump plug bolt may be leaking oil, especially if reusing the same washer.
  16. #16 HeavyNinja, Apr 19, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 19, 2016
    Yeah I did re use the washer. I will check around the sump before I ride. Few things to do this arvo, tighten the filter, remove some oil and check the washer. One assumes if it is the washer it be pretty noticeable. Is it just something I can get from bunnings?

    This is what happens when your manual is missing pages and your so used to working on cars your just like "how hard can it be" now I gotta re do it hahahahahahaha.
  17. You can buy filter cup wrench that allow the fitment of a torque wrench as above. I just do hand tight though.
  18. So did I over 100 times but I'll never guess it again.....
  19. Sorry mate I disagree, torque settings are there for a reason I used to have your line of thinking but it only takes once for it to be not quite right. Mine happened on the 4th 20min session too it wasn't straight away.

    What's the first thing K&N said to me when I spoke with them.
    "Did you torque it up correctly? "

    Nah mate.

    Well do you think we give these recommendations for fun........
    • Agree Agree x 1
  20. I do agree it needs to be a decent torque wrench though...... :)