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Oil change questions

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' started by calgarychris, Aug 14, 2014.

  1. Hey guys,

    Sorry for posting this here and the CB400 forum, I'm just curious about a couple of things:

    1. Is anyone using K&N oil filters? Specifically the KN-303 or KN-303C but in general have you had any issues installing or noticed any difference in performance?

    2. What oil are folks using in Melbourne - 10W40? Any specific brands better than others?

    3. When doing an oil change, do you need to replace the sealing washer on the oil drain bolt?

    Thanks very much!

  2. When I bought my bike it had a K&N oil filter.
    I'm stupid & replaced it with a normal one...
    The K&N had a bolt head on the top, simple to take off... the replacement doesn't.

    The 'what oil' question will begin arguments... I ain't going there.

    The washer can be replaced just like a car but usually they are fine to reuse... Any burrs or bends in it replace it automatically, just buy a few spares to keep in the garage.
  3. 3) yes, if you don't then you might be the guy who says they've never had to change it, or equally your could be the guy on the forum starting another "help drain bolt stripped" thread.
  4. Use an oil that meets or exceeds Honda's recommendation for that bike.
    No experience with K&N, I always use factory filters.
    The crush washer is what goes between the sump bolt and sump, and you can usually get away with a few oil changes without replacing it, but as a rule, I change it given it's like a 50c part.
  5. hope that helps. :)
  6. Hi,
    I use a kn-303 oil filter on my XJR, l just smear a bit of oil on the o-ring at the base of the oil filter, then tighten by hand + 1/4 of a turn, never had one leak. (I purchase them from ebay, which suits me, because of my location)
    Regarding the drain plug, l have never replaced the washer (although l am not saying don't change it, l just never have) instead each time l remove the drain plug l turn the washer over, so far l have done probably 60 oil changes on various bikes over the years and have yet to have any problems.

    Ensure you use the correct torque (or a bit less) when tightening the drain plug, as it doesn't take much to strip out the thread; if you do, then it is a headache!
    Check the workshop manual for your model, to get the correct torque spec (google may help you here, but ensure you double check it)

    Re. Which oil? This debate is still raging on the internet forums, just make sure you get the correct 'JASO' specs. Most oil companies use a vehicle recommendation search feature, located on their website, to assist customers.
    I favour 'Gulf Western' oil in all my bikes & cars.
    • Like Like x 1
  7. Thanks guys - I have the K&N on order along with the washer. The JASO 903 standard is MA so I understand MA or MA2 oil should be okay? It also says that the API classification is SG or higher.

    I'm looking at the Motul 4T 5100 10W40 which says "MA2" and API SG/SH/SJ/SL...Without anyone coming to blows (didn't realise oil was such a sensitive topic!) has anyone got any experience with this stuff? It's $70 for 4L which doesn't seem too bad...?

    Thanks again for all the tips, much appreciated!
  8. Motul 5100 @ $70 for 4L? Man it used to be $45 for 4L only a year or 2 back. Sure you aren't looking at 7100? That used to be $70/4L as it is full-synth.

    Motul 5100 is a good semi-oil, I have been using it for years.
  9. Hmmm, well it is Peter Stevens, so that's probably part of the issue...
  10. Without starting the whole oil debate! But at $70 for 4 litres, is exactly why l found an alternative, at the time l had 5 bikes to maintain, including 3 race bikes with 2 hourly oil change schedule, there was no way we could afford to race.

    Do some investigating, before forking out the cash!
  11. There is a famous oil thread in Netrider which runs for some hundreds of pages. It is a hotly contested subject amongst those who know and probably evenly more hotly contested amongst those who don't.

    Some oils are probably better than others and most likely more expensive oils are better than cheap. However it may be better to buy cheap oil and change frequently than use expensive oil and not change frequently enough.

    Your manual will almost certainly tell you to change your crush washer every time. It is probably a cheap part so why not however if you don't most likely you will get away with it and you would be unlikely not to.

    Your manual should also tell you the grade of oil to use and i would go with that.
  12. I use this:

    Gear shifting is smoother and the engine seems to run better than before (used to use Castrol Activ 4T). It's cheaper and an Aussie company to boot.
  13. #13 mike8863, Aug 15, 2014
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2014
    Its not just thievin stevens, most 'shops' seem to charge rrp on motul products.
    4L of 5100 is US$38, and 4L of 7100 is US$54.......
    What really needs to be addressed is that the Australian rrp is way over priced.....as usual the australia tax strikes again

    BTW..Penrite also do both an everyday full synthetic and a 'race' full synthetic oil and the labels specifically mentions suitability for wet clutches/motorcycles. IMHO after trying out both in recent times, its no better or worse that the M brand products, just a little cheaper ( moreso when supercrap have a special on )
  14. #14 Gooza, Aug 15, 2014
    Last edited: Aug 15, 2014
    Does the Diesel stuff not attack the CAT in the more modern bikes, or it does, and no one cares?

    Seems SuperCrap have it at ~ $72 for 10 litres, that's 3 oil changes in the CB. Its a mixed fleet oil, as mentioned in the other oil megathread. So my previous question seems mute.

  15. 1. Stock(No top nut normally), KN-303(Nutted), HF-303(Nutted) all same same really depends on the price on the time you get spares.

    2. In Aus 10-40 is fine, if in the northern states or really hot summer might go a -50, some do that winter oil and summer oil changes.

    3. Not normally, but it is always recommended- in case something goes wrong.

    As for the oils, depends on the bike and the types of clutches used, start with Factory specs and get something rated the same or above.

    Avoid plain car oils as most have friction modifiers for smother running, but there not also using it for clutch work.

    M-brand only bike oil to Turbo car or Diesel oil, prices vary a lot.
    Count the pennies or buy from the top shelf it.
    Dinosaur or Fully Synthetic ..