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Oil Change on a Yamaha FZR250 with royal purple car oil

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by Paulstar, Jul 21, 2008.

  1. Hey guys, this is my tutorial of how to change the oil and filter on a 1989 Yamaha FZR 250. The text is by Boz from the FZR250.com forum which i found when i did a search on how to changing the oil and filter on a 2kr. I added the pictures which i took whilst doing a service on my bike.

    I needed a 10mm 12mm and 19mm socket and ratchet, alan key set to do the service.

    I did a bit of searching as to whether i could or could not use car oil in my bike and i found replies saying yes and no and sometimes. In the end i went ahead and tried car oil. I used Royal Purple engine oil which i had left over from two oil changes on my car, the oil has 'synerlec' and i was worried this would be a 'friction modifier' but i haven't had any problems.

    There was no clutch slip or negative affects from using car engine oil in my bike. This oil has been my favorite i use it in my suzuki swift GTi and its just the best oil i've ever used and im happy that i could use it on my bike too. Its 10-40 which is what i'd use in my GTi in the summer time whilst i use 5-30 in the winter.

    1) Remove main fairings
    2) Run the bike for a brief amount of time (this is just to get the oil warmed up so it is easier to drain). 5 minutes should be enough. not necessary but I find it makes things easier.
    2.5) Find yourself a 'drip' container. the container should be at least able to hold 3 liters, and will need to be able to slide under the bike. Also - if you don't want to get oil in your work area spread out some newspapers under the bike (a couple of layers is advised)
    3) On the left hand side, at the bottom of the bike, in front of the side stand you will see a hex bolt with a screw also in it. Take a wrench/spanner and open this bolt (do not use the screw - not sure why this is there). Be ready with your drip container as the oil will come out quickly! And also be wary as it may be hot so try not to get any on your hands (have a towel/rag handy just in case...). If the nut falls into the oil container just leave it for now - you can collect it later.
    4) The oil filter on the fzr 250 is at the bottom of the engine. For exup models it is likely covered by the exhaust and you will ahve to remove the exhaust to get to it (you can either totally remove it or you can 'rotate' it around on the exup cables - I always just removed it).
    5) After you have removed the exhaust (or otherwise have access to the filter - it is a small round cap with 3 bolts) use an allan key to remove the bolts. Again have your rag ready and drip tray as some more oil will come out.
    6) After all 3 bolts are out the filter will fall out.
    7) Get your new filter, and pour some oil into the middle of it. Also, take some oil and rub it around the filter seal with your finger.
    8) Re-install the oil filter using the same 3 bolts.
    Some fzr To take off the oil filter on the fzr250 it is easiest if you remove the exhaust
    9) put the exhaust back on (if necessary)

    These next steps didnt apply to my bike
    FOR FZR's with screw in type filter
    4) Unscrew the filter after oil has pretty much stopped pouring. You may need a special 'oil filter spanner/wrench' to do this (if you don't have one you can always punch a long screwdriver through and turn it that way)
    5) Put some oil around the base of the new filter.
    6)Screw the filter on. This should be tight, but not excessively tight!

    10) Replace the bolt where the oil drained out from. Make sure it is tight - you don't want this bolt falling off.
    11) Open the oil reservoir (right side, by your knee when sitting on the bike), and slowly pour replacement oil into the bike. Start with about 1.8 litres.
    12) After you put in 1.8 litres of oil, gradually add oil bit by bit - constantly checking the site glass (don't forget you need to put the bike upright when checking the site glass). WHen the oil reaches between the two lines you are good to go.
    13) Turn the bike on - it may not start first time, but it will eventually...
    14) Replace fairings.
    15) After bike has run for a few minutes (and cooled preferably), turn off and check oil - it is normal for this to have gone down a bit as the filter fills with oil. Top-up as necessary. (Check regularly!)
  2. your gangster!!! cant wait to go cruisin y0... should we go back to the good ol gorge like the redline days? haha
  3. cruise cruise cruise :cool: went out with redliners last night! wasnt as cool tho, rode in the rain an cold but it was fine :cool:
  4. looks like a lot of fuss.
    Do you really need to remove the half fairing,

    my bikes fairing has an opening where the sump plug is and a small peice on the side which you can remove with one screw and fill oil into it.

    I used car oil before, as long as its SG or earlier its a 100% no friction mods in it. but i found i used to get more faulse neutrals before, im now using castrol tri something bike oil, and found lighter smoother gear changes.

    The only difference between car oils without friction mods and bike oils is that bike oils are tested for use in wet clutches and gearboxes JASO, car oils only made with motors in mind. But if its running smooth should be ok
  5. Exhaust off for a filter change? :shock: Somebody needs to be slapped for that design.
  6. Very true loz!


    AUTOSOL is your friend ;)
  7. Car oils- usually fine. Infact there is actually no such thing as a dedicated car/ bike oil. It is marketing that divides the two.

    friction modifiers are the issue, if the oil contains them. At least with a picture of a bike on the front, you know there are no friction modifiers.


    Royal purple is very highly loaded with molybdenum disulphide. A friction modifier.

    Now, Royal Purple say their oil is safe to use in bikes. However, I know Kawasaki racers using royal purple gave it away after having issues. I have not personally known anyone else using it in bikes, particularly wet clutches.

    Just be cautious.
  8. Yup, crappy design and it took ages because we had never done it before so its all new to me. Didnt think that putting the oil filter under the exhaust was normal either....lol
  9. Now I am 99% sure on this. I havent played with FZR250's for a while, but from memory-

    The sump on your 2kr is interchangeable with the 3LN. The 3LN had the spin on filter on the side of the sump. Changing the sump over (if you have the exhaust of 80% of the work is done already) is a simple affair. The bolts are the same, the pickup is the same, the pressure sensor is the same.

    The only issue-

    your side stand has a spring which is attached to a lug. This lug interferes with the filter. Shorten the lug, find a shorter filter, or move the lug, and no issue.

    How do I know?

    I made a 3ln motor fit into a 2KR.