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oh Shiet...bolt head snapped clean off - FIXED

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by L0Ki, Jul 26, 2008.

  1. Was taking the water cooling system apart today. And as my luck would have it i sheared the head off a bolt. This bolt wasnt just any old bolt it was the bolt that plugs the coolant release hole on the engine block.

    The bolt didnt just wear out so that i couldnt get any grip with a socket. It snapped off the whole head of the bolt! WTF. :evil:

    So now it leaks and i cant think of a way (thats easy and cheap) to remove the bolt (really just thread).

    So i guess what im trying to ask along with venting is what can i do about it. Anyone got any ideas? Someone know off/have a kit that allows you to remove these types of problems?

    Pic Attached for anyone interested. aVTUH6S.

  2. Bugger! Reckon you'll need an Easy out. See if you can borrow a set or if not they are about 80 bucks to buy.
  3. i saw a set in repco yesterday for $30
  4. Beware of cheapo easy-outs.

    I don't like 'em anyway, but if you are going to use one, make sure it's a good one. Cheap ones are much more likely to snap in the bolt/stud, leaving you with a totally undrillable mess and a trip to Mr Sparkerosionman.

    Somewhere on here there's a sticky which gives a good run down on easy-out use. Follow the advice therein and you may be successful.

    Trouble is, in a case like this, the bolt has snapped because the thread is seized/corroded in place. There is at least a fighting chance that an easy-out won't shift it either, and, like I said, a broken easy-out is a major pain in the arse to deal with.

    Start soaking the area down with penetrating fluid now, and keep reapplying until you actually do the job.

    Another good trick is to get a blowtorch with a soldering bit (a cheapie from Bunnies will do fine) or a big soldering iron (a 150W solder gun works well), and use it to heat the remains of the bolt, without applying heat to the surrounding ally. Heat the bolt and let it cool several times. Given a bit of luck, the repeated heat cycling and resultant differential expansion and contraction between the bolt and its surroundings will break the relatively brittle corrosion bond between the steel and the ally. Combined with the pen fluid treatment, you'll give yourself the best possible chance of giving the easy-out an easier time.

    Then, after you've got it out, see if you can find a stainless bolt with the right thread and bung it in with plenty of Copaslip, or, better still, a zinc based anti-seize compound which you can get from this mob


    Good luck.
  5. Read the ezyout thread.
  6. :WStupid:
    What Rog & Pat said
  7. +1 - there is a Wurth product, called Rostoff Ice, it does both of these, it is a rust penetrator, and it supercools the metal, thus shrinking, thus cracking the bond. However it is expensive.
  8. +1
    Works great too. I was using it a while to shrink valve seat inserts !
    In the end I reverted back to placing them in the freezer ( due to the expense ) .. however I was impressed by the product. :)
  9. If it's just a drain plug, and it's not leaking, I would be tempted to forget about it.
    Taking off teh bottom radiator hose and backflushing will remove any remaining coolant/debris, motorcycle cooling systems are pretty basic, and lack any dead end areas that a decent backflush won't get to.
    Oh yeah, heat will help you if you decide to remove it too, drill out bolt, get ezy out in the bolt etc, then heat the block around teh bolt with a propane torch. Aluminium has a very high expansion rate so it'll help release teh bolt. I also spray penetrant into teh bolt threads as I do this, capilliary action and heat help draw the penetrant in.

    Regards, Andrew.
  10. Success Guys.

    Went to bunnings and bought a cheap set (if i ever need them later) and an expensive, durable screw extractor that fitted the bolt size i needed. $7.25 and $9.72 respectively.

    So we all know how it works so here lies the final result. Very pleased. Wasnt too tight actually.



    Thanks for all the help
  11. Yep, if I had to use one, Suttons are a company I'd be prepared to trust.

    Well done mate.
  12. I realise this is finished with, and well done, but I thought I'd throw in a word or two.
    Ezyouts are okay, but you need to be very careful - not only because of the chance of snapping the drillbit or ezyout halfway through the operation, but also because forcing a threaded plug into your snapped bolt can cause the outside of the bolt to expand and sieze even tighter - or worse, damage the female thread into which the bolt's screwed (particularly easy in aluminium).

    An alternative that I try whenever possible is to use a die-grinder/Dremel type tool and an engraving bit: 'engrave' a deep enough slot into the severed bolt and use an impact driver and/or screwdriver to unscrew.

    And yes, use a penetrating oil regardless of which of these you attempt - I use 'Penetrene', but it's notoriously hard to find here in Perth.
  13. Another option is to tak weld a small lobe onto the sheared bolt and use multi grips to grab the weld and temove it this way.

    I know this as I snapped an easy out once! DOH DOH :(

  14. PLease distinguish between cheap price and cheap ie. crap quality. You can get cheap easy outs, which are also good quality if you know where to look.