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Odd behaviour of Oxford Heated Grips

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by hornet, Nov 12, 2008.

  1. As reported in the "Another Man's Musketeers" thread, my Oxford grips didn't work when I left Cooma.

    Of course with summer coming it shouldn't matter, but I took the bike round to my mechanic this arvo, because I thought he may have dislodged something when fixing the carbies, what with the tank being off, and all.

    Nope, the control box reports voltage at the right level, and the wiring TO the grips also checks out. However, when the ignition is off, the control box lights up, then beeps five times, which is the signal for the fact that there's not enopugh voltage to start the bike. This, of course, is obviously incorrect.

    And, when the ignition is on, when you hold down the 'ON' button, you get two flashes of the purple light, and then it goes out again.

    Any clues, please o wise Netriders?
  2. On one of my previous bikes the right grip would cut in and out, it was the connector causing the problem.
    After I cut all of the connectors off and soldered the wiers together I never had the problem again.
    On my current bike I noticed the connectors looked a bit sus so I soildered them straigth up to avoid any problems.

    It could be something to do with the cnnectors.
  3. yes, it does have a couple of connectors :wink: might point my mech in that direction, thank you very much
  4. No worries. If he does cut them off and join them it is a good idea to use "heat shrink" over the joins, it keeps the weather out.

  5. From memory the flashes when the ignition is on indicate that there is no enough voltage for them to run. How long have you had them installed? And have you had previous problems?

    You may have to run them on their own circuit.

    Also, what do you mean by not enough voltage to start the bike? Do the hand grips flash with the ignition off? I'm not sure what you mean by control box.
  6. Control box is how you turn the grips on and change the temperature - goes from on (also low heat), medium, and high. Mine were doing the same thing as Hornet's - two flashes and then off. This was when the bike was off :? However, all work fine when the bike engine was on

    I spoke to the mechanic where I bought them from and he advised to also run them on their own circuit - however, other talk has advised "direct to the battery gives maximum voltage requried to the grips"

    And my left grip was not as warm as the right - guessing that heating the alloy handlebars must use a bit of the heat :?
  7. Thanks TC, the control box should not have power when the ignition is off. Is it wired with a switched active? If not you should change it so that you do not drain the battery.

    TC, what do you mean by "I bought them from and he advised to also run them on their own circuit - however, other talk has advised "direct to the battery gives maximum voltage requried to the grips""

    The own circuit will give maximum voltage from the battery so am a bit confused by the "however, other talk" statement as it contradicts what you said previously.
  8. I don't know about Alex's, but mine are wired directly to the battery.

    The switch box is supposed to be smart enough to react to two conditions; one is voltage being too low to crank the motor, in which case it will switch the grips off, and the second is to switch the grips off before the battery drops below a certain voltage if they are left on after the rider turns off the engine...

    Obviously it's some months since I have used them, but they were supplied and fitted probably only a couple of years ago, and have been reliable up to the present..
  9. That really just leaves the battery then. How old is it? are you able to try another?
  10. No, it's not the battery because on both sides of the junction boxes in the wires a multi-meter is reporting the exact right voltage it should be, and the battery is relatively new, and the regulator, although nearly three years old, is charging at the rate it's supposed to....
  11. Paul ... mine does the same if I try switch em on at idle.
    What I do is bring the revs up a bit whilst turning the grips on.
    Strange seeing as I've tested the battery voltage at idle and it's fine.
    Might be a 'glitch' ?
  12. One way that a "low volts" condition can occur in service is if you've got a dodgy connection that has electrical contact but not much of it. Under test conditions it'll show voltage everywhere there should be and will show bugger all resistance. However, as soon as you apply a decent current (like eg the draw from a set of heated grips), the connection breaks down, its resistance goes up and the voltage "seen" by the load drops off to zilch.

    I've spent a day or two tearing my hair out trying to trace similar faults at one time or another.
  13. Used to drive jaguars - most electrical problems with them were due to a poor earth.

    To do this properly, the switch should open a relay, which then uses direct current from the battery.

    Costs about $5 more to do it properly than to dodge it. Use a switched circuit to provide power to the relay. Then ign off - equals grips off.

    I would suggest replacing the circuit completely, and use soldered connections only.
  14. Well, well.

    After taking it to my mechanic the other day and having him 'tut-tut' about the number of flashes and what they mean, and take off the side-cover on the battery side and poke around, I decided to do the same myself. Result??

    An earth wire left off the negative terminal. Right there. Where anyone could have seen it. Where HE removed it when he re-fitted my rear shock and re-fitted my carbies.

    Which Hornet re-attached, and now the grips are working as they should.

    Sigh, why do mechanics build you up to let you down??? :(
  15. Most likely in a hurry to push you out the door so he can get back to his favorite web forum. :)