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O-ring chain master link removal?

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by ben1, Apr 27, 2011.

  1. hi all,

    i have just brought an o ring chain from hyosungsouce.com... the chain comes with it all linked together, can anyone tell me how to pop the master-link out so i can install it?

    i have tried screw driver, pliers and even spraying some wd-40... but it is stuck.

    any help would be appreciated.


  2. I have used all sorts of butcher methods with vicegrips and bench vice jaws, tapping things through carefully with a punch pin and a fairly small hammer, but the best way is to get hold of a chain breaker tool, and squeeze one side a fraction, then the other side a fraction... It's easier if you get the tool with the two pins and the big block, but the single pin one with the pivoting links will do it too. Just don't try and push one pin all the way out before you start on the other one, because you'll f#ck it. You need to keep the pins and the plates parallel. Try not to screw the 'O' rings because the chin kit might give you a spare or two, and it might not.

    Google search "motorcycle chain breaker tool" and chose "Images". They're all a little different, but you'll get the idea. Better bike shops will sell you one for not all that much ... research ... ok - looks like $20 ~ $30 should get you a serviceable one. A top o the line pro model will be more like $200 but you don't need that. It's better, but if you're not going to be doing this all day every day...

    While you're at it, go trawl youTube for "change motorcycle chain" and watch. Most of them don't show the whole process, and some of them know their stuff and some don't, but if you blow out your internet bill and watch a few, you should get a feel for it. Watching it done on all different makes and models is actually good, because it will give a better overall feel.

    You might also google search a workshop manual for the bike as well. That'd help.

    Same deal to put it back together. Press it on carefully with the tool. It is again possible to do with vicegrips and hammers and screwdrivers and sh1t, but if you don't know how then don't try it because you'll f#ck it up.

    Tip - change both the sprockets as well.

    Tip - When you change the front, get a big socket and a rattle gun. It's not the only way to do it but it is heaps easier. The golden rule is use air to remove and hands to replace. Well break the damn rule with countershaft sprocket nuts because the bast@rds need to be tight. Note what the arrangements are to hold that nut on. Probably a washer with a little tab or two that bend up. You'll need to bend those flat to get it off, and they should give you a new washer with your new sprocket, and you need to use it. Take note how you took it off because you have to put it back that way. You don't want that nut to come off.

    Tip - when you come to join up the chain, slide your wheel all the way forward, then set up the links adjacent on the rear sprocket at about the 2 O'clock pos - say 45 degrees past the top on the back side. Note that any tension on the chain will try to spread the tips of the pins apart and the damn things won't line up. A beautiful assistant in fishnets, or an ugly mate with strong fingers might help at this point. The alternative is to join the link off the sprocket, then roll it on and then tension the chain. On some bikes that's easier to do. I dunno about the hysung because I've never touched one.

    When you come to put the clip on, remember that the open end goes at the back with regard to the direction of rotation. It's a good idea if the pins poke through from the inside - wheel side - and the free plate and clip are on the outside too, but that's just for your later convenience. If you put the clip on so the opening faces forward while the chain rotates, it will come off, and that isn't good.
  3. 2 screwdrivers, one each end of the link and lever it off evenly, ie a little bit each end at a time. Be careful not to damage the Orings.
  4. tried that... and nothing, didnt move even abit.
  5. I agree with Kneedragon, Youtube what you are after and chances are some boffin out there has recorded himself in high def with some nasty trance track playing in the background.

    Kneedragon, awesome post. You've obviously replaced a few chains :)
  6. all sorted now... bikebiz did it for me for free, i have put the new sprockets and chain back on, time for a test ride now 8-[
  7. (y) Best option.

    And yes, I've changed a few. It's not too hard in a proper workshop, with all the tools and tricks. It's a pain to do at home where you have to use stuff in ways that were never intended, but it becomes a real nightmare to do by feel and the light of a cigarette lighter, in the rain, by the road, in the middle of nowhere. It's better to do it right while the option is there.
  8. just incase people go the same route (with there hyo) and purchase the after market sprockets (front and rear) and the gold 520, 112link o ring chain from hyosungsource.com.... there is a problem with fitment.

    the rear sprocket and chain are fine... i have them installed now, but the front sprocket does not fit the chain, the teeth are to wide, it will go through the teeth and then it will hit a roller causing it to kink up and get stuck.

    i am not sure why this is as i purchased all the items from hyosungsource.com from the gt250 section (hence my bike being a gt250r).

    so just a heads up, i have contacted hyo source, i am now waiting a reply.

  9. Sounds like you got a 525 or a 530 front sprocket, rather than a 520.
  10. Well the chain is the same length as the original chain, so i am sure it is the front sprocket...

    but i did measure the old and new sprocket up against each other and the only difference is the teeth being wider... but my old sprockets teeth are worn pretty bad.

    so im hoping they have sent the wrong sprocket and they will replace it... if not i will need to buy a new one pretty soon as i dont want to screw my new chain with my pointy old sprocket teeth.
  11. Hi guys,

    Had a low speed slide (5km/h) and as a result the chain on my 2003 VTR250 has popped off. The chain is too tight to just slide back on, and the back sprocket is already set up as far forward as possible (I'm assuming by the guys who usually service it). I'm replacing everything myself, so I've attempted to break the chain and reconnect it. I was able to get the clip off (using the correct equal pressure on front of clip / pin procedure), but I for the life of me cannot get the plate off. The problem is compounded by the fact that it is off the sprocket - I have barely any leverage with which to get the plate off.

    I've tried screwdrivers, needle nose pliers, and all manner of stuff. The pin heads look slightly 'mushroomed', but the plate doesn't seem to be moving near that at all. I've looked online and not found much in the way of answer on getting the plate off, as most threads are about how the clip is hard to get off. I'm new to doing my own maintenance and repair, so I was wondering what you guys think I should do. Do chain breaker tools help with clip style master links or not? Is there another method I could use to get the chain back on? I've attached a few pictures, they might not help much however.

    1977513_10152013060867918_74407914_o. 10001637_10152013060872918_1851281407_o. 10001790_10152013060862918_1324943603_o.
  12. It would seem not, my apologies. I thought it would be slightly different as my chain was off the bike (rather than most threads I've seen with it being on the bike). Thanks for the merge, I'll try and pick up a chain tool tomorrow.
  13. brainfriedbrainfried , with the wheel that far forward, you should be able tojust roll it back on by pushing the bike (Or if you have a stand, turn the wheel).
    If you can't get the chain back on just by rolling it, it's probably too short for your bike! VTR's shouldn't have that much space at the rear when adjusted properly! :-O
  14. place as much of the chain on the sprocket as you can from the top to the back then push the bike forward and the chain will feed itself back on.

    The thread is old but it didn't really seem to get answered properly, for chains with a clip on the master link a pair of Circlip pliers are best used, just put the tips of the pliers in the gap in the clip squeeze to spread it a part, a good tip is to cup your had over the clip incase it flies off, and squint your eyes, or if you are a real pussy safety glasses.
  15. Hi guys,

    I've tried to roll it back on but it keeps getting stuck - as soon as I begin rolling it the side of the chain becomes taught because there's not enough slack for it to slip over the sprocket and down to where it needs to be to move on (if that made sense). @streetmaster@streetmaster, yeah, I thought it was weird that it was set up like that. I think I'm going to get a new chain and sprocket set and readjust the wheel correctly.

    Will a chain tool assist in getting the plate off?
    • Agree Agree x 1
  16. Dremel or an angle grinders.
  17. Before you try any of this drastic stuff, try pulling out the axle so that the forward travel of the wheel is not limited by the adjustment block. It would appear that the rear rails of your swing arm are parallel for long enough in front of the mount to allow for this. This will allow you to put the chain on the sprocket, then you will have to reinsert the axle. NOTE you will have to have the rear of the bike suspended with the wheel slightly off the ground for this - Use the bike's centre stand (if it has one), or block & tackle or chain block. Careful if lifting the rear of the bike this way, it will not be stable - Secure the front wheel. It will have a tendency to turn and the bike will sag to one side or the other. You may need to undo the brake mounting too.

    It will be a pain to reinsert the axle. You will need to sit on the ground behind the wheel and lift it into the right position so the axle can be reinserted. Much easier if a friend is available to push the axle in while you manoeuvre the wheel. They will able to see the alignment.

    Complicated as it might seem, it can be simpler than trying to do make do stuff with links.
  18. iClint, was trying to avoid damaging / replacing the master link if possible. jstava, not a bad idea, I'll give it a try, thanks.
  19. That's one way to lift it! But how about just using a paddock stand!! lol
    Chain is definitely too short. The back of the slot should be about 4 lines from the 'arrow' cast into the side of the adjuster. (With a new chain)