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Nut Splitters

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by Thera, Feb 9, 2011.

  1. O.k.... 20 minute job, just gone 2 hours with a few strained muscles and a lower rear shock bolt and nut that wont freaking budge... even with the usual treatments.

    Seeing as I am currently short of a dremel, welder or angle grinder, what are Nut splitters like?

    I am expecting you PatB to give me an insight as I know your the authority on cantankerous bits and bobs and how to tame them.
  2. Any tool store will sell you a nut breaker, Just make sure it will fit on your nut in the position its in,
    But you can buy small ones.
  3. my wifes an expert on nut breaking !
  4. My two ex wives were nut breakers as well, thats why they are ex's.
  5. My Dad brought over a set with us and I've had reason to use them a couple of times and the hardest thing I found was using them properly if you've got no one to give you some tips, or more to the point there's got to be an easier way than how I did it :LOL:

    From memory it was a case of slip it over the nut, tighten a couple of taps with a persuader, loosen, rotate 90 degrees to the initial point and repeat. There might be need for additional repetitions and/or persuasion but it's one of those things that's better played slow and sure.

    And Deadman is spot on with his point about fiddly spots.
  6. I thought this thread was going to be about dodgy wheelies...

    Sorry, haven't used a nut breaker in that context :)
  7. I havent seen one you hit with a hammer, Thats a hammer and sharp chisel job,
    The new ones are just a slip on thing, You put it over the nut and keep screwing it in untill the nut cracks, turn it around to the other side and repeat, The nut falls off in your hand,
    But you must be able to get it on the nut first.
    Turning the nut around to the other side helps also,
  8. Be warned though, some moto nuts are quite 'soft', it's easy to over do it and damage the bolt thread... Take your time and be careful...
  9. Nut splitters are fantastic things, if you can get access. Usually you only have to split one side of the nut as that will break the corrosion's hold on the threads and the remains will spin off by hand.

    As has been said, be careful not to overdo it and start chewing into the bolt thread.

    Given a bit of skill, it's possible to split nuts with a sharp chisel. However, it requires room to get a swing with a decent hammer and for the nut to be supported on something that will take a solid whack or two. A suspension linkage doesn't really fall into that category.

    I've also cut through such things with bits of hacksaw blade with a tape handle where there wasn't access for the saw frame. Slow and tedious but you get there. Eventually. The good thing is, the extreme ends of a hacksaw blade don't get much wear so even a scrap blade will still cut decently if you use the ends.
  10. yeah its on the bottom end, if it was the top end i'd have little choice but to use a hacksaw. Good access to it, it seems the nut is done up way tighter then it should be, and its at the point now where i think i have no option. As for replacing the bolt, went and bought a spare one anyway.
    Not enough access on that side for a hammer(The nut is behind the freaking exhaust pipe) Bolt head has heaps of clearance, why they didn't put it on the other way around is mind boggling.

    I think these koreans have captured the Hulk, and put him to work on the assembly line.

    My father is a backyard mechaninc, and my Father in law is a mechanic, so I have quite the assembly of hammers, baby sledges, et al. Oh well off to find a nut splitter, failing that I guess its either an angle grinder or a set of metal blades for the hacksaw.
  11. 'Cos there wouldn't be enough room to get the bolt all the way out?

    Just be mindful of how much white-hot abrasive crap a grinder kicks out. Bloke over here just burned down half his suburb with one. Worse yet, it'll embed itself everywhere in the vicinity of the work so ensure everything you dont want permanently covered in rusty pebbledash is either out of the way or covered up with something not too flammable. Fire blankets are good. Failing that, thick woollen blankets do a reasonable job and will burn sufficiently slowly you have a chance to put them out when they catch fire.
  12. ended up using the hacksaw.

    @Pat I have some nifty aluminium Fire pads. You normally use them to put Very hot things onto it i.e. deep frying pots and toffee pots.

    So to end the story, 20 minutes of hacksaw, 20 minutes to put it all back together and done. Next job sprockets and chain.....