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NSR150 Spark Plug

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' at netrider.net.au started by Torquative, Apr 24, 2010.

  1. Hi all,

    firstly let me just say I didnt want to make my first post a help post! I've been around car forums for many years and I know how annoying it is when someone's first post is to ask for help. That said I'm also aware of the awesome knowledge base forums have, I know in car land its helped me several times over.

    Secondly on the topic of knowledge I know NR has alot of info on the Honda NSR150 SP, there's a massive thread Ive been reading thats spanned a few years!

    Ok so my problem is with the spark plug, and NO its not the usual "why does the manual say one thing and the service manual say something else and the bike says something else - I bought the correct plug, an NGK B9ECS.

    Pulled the old one out, its also a B9ECS.

    The problem is at the tip where the lead plugs onto. The original one is a skinny tip whereas the new one has the usual "fatter" tip - see my attached photos.

    Now I thought I read somewhere late one night someone simply changed the lead over so it'll accept the newer plugs, but I cant find it (can find alot of posts arguing about which plug heat range to use tho)

    My question is how to I fit this new plug? Do I need to source a B9ECS with the smaller tip from overseas perhaps, and if so from where? Or how do I make a new lead that will accept the fat tip plugs, seeing as Ive only ever seen them with that sort of tip on them!

    Currently the plugs extremely fouled, I think its been in for far longer then it should have so I want to change it over ASAP.

    Any help is good help!

    Cheers =D>

    Attached Files:

  2. That big fat tip should screw off, the corugations on the skinny tip are actually a thread. Pliers should do the trick.
  3. thanks made, I feel like such a knob now ](*,) grrr!!
  4. alright guys,

    well I took bunabaroos advice with one dilemma.

    The damn tip unscrewed from the center of the plug, practically destroying it (well I wouldnt trust screwing it back in and using it)

    What I found is that the bigger tip on that plug was actually permanent, it didn't just unscrew to the threaded bit.

    But I found a solution, abeit it costing 4 times the price - that was to put in an equivalent NGK Iridium plug, as this had the screw off top tip.

    so if anyone has this issue beware ](*,)

    Also if anyones after a destroyed B9ECS plug just holler out =D>
  5. Bugger! Sorry mate :facepalm:

    I've unscrewed quite a few of those tips from various plugs, but I never thought I would be able to screw a spark plug from a distance like this!

    I definately I owe you a beer, if ever you find yourself on Sydney's northern beaches give me a holler and it'll be my shout.

    Cheers, Bunas
  6. Gday mate, don't worry about it!

    The difference with the tips seems to be the unscrewable ones are hollow in the middle, so you can actually see the threaded part. Once you have an unscrewable plug its just a matter of some pliers to unscrew, as you suggested!

    Im annoyed the NGK plug only has one type, which doesn't suit, but I'm relieved the iridum version has the unscrewable tip which was available at supercheap.

    Thanks for trying to help though and dont worry, the plug was never going to fit so destroying it was added fun!!
  7. Nice one mate! Have fun flogging the daylights out of that Honda!
  8. Couple of other solutions for future reference...

    1] B9ES would have done the job just as well..

    ( follow the link to "part numbering system" )

    2] You could have replaced the plug cap for less than $10.

    Plug caps should be replaced every so often anyway.
  9. thanks for the tips!

    Ultimately in my case I dont mind forking out for the iridium, but yes I'll pay attention next time to the B9ES. Ive taken onboard alot of information these past few weeks, I thought the B9ECS is all that could be fitted but yeh on the part number system logic it makes sense too

    Thanks guys!
  10. Go to any auto electrician and buy an NGK plug cap to suit the plug you bought. They cost less than $10 (maybe 4 or 5). The old plug cap screws off the lead, while the new one screws on. The old style cap is a resistive type (I believe) to reduce electrical interference.

    The C plug is designed for competition use which suits the NSR150 a little better. I don't think I have one with me any more, but I believe the earth electrode does not protrude as much as the non-C type, which is very important for the NSR.

    A screw-off plug terminal is always visible because you can see the threaded tip inside the end terminal. The C plugs available as spares from Honda, as you found out, most definitely cannot have the ends screwed off.