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noob.. chain..

Discussion in 'Bling and Appearance' started by sunrise, Apr 20, 2009.

  1. Hi there.
    Cleaned up the chain and adjusted it for the first time.

    Just wanting to make sure I've done it right.

    The tension certainly seems to be right; checked it over a few times (i'd get it right, tighten the axle, check again and it'd either loosen or tighten.. but I got it right eventually :) so it's within spec at the tightest point and the rest is all in range too!).

    One thing is, wasn't sure if I should have washed off the kero after cleaning, or if a wipe down and letting it dry/evap is enough. It did have like 24 hours to dry up so I'm guessing that's fine?

    Then I warmed up the chain.. sprayed on the lube on the inside (sprocket side) and it was pretty much all white. let it set for a while and took it for another quick ride. having a look at the chain afterwards, the chain on the sides is still white, but the inside/top (when looking at the chain along the bottom from above) is basically just black metal? Just wondering if that sounds about right for a clean'ish chain that's been lubed up? Or if it means there's not enough lube on it or something. I was fairly generous, I figured excess will just flick off, not that it was a ridiculous amount anyways.
  2. ...
    if it helps
    here's a photo!

  3. The outside plates are not subject to any contact or friction, so the residue of the chain lube stays on till it get washed off by riding in the rain, that sort of stuff.

    Chain lube on the pins themselves gets broken up straight away by contact with the sprocket teeth.....
  4. I guess that's why the rollers look relatively clean

  5. What Hornet said - outside plates don't rub on anything, so don't need lubing! You need to get lube between the plates (where the rubber seals are) and on/around the rollers, which make contact with the sprocket teeth.

    Looks like you've used a lot of lube from the pic - if you do it regularly with a lighter spray your chain will be better off, and you'll get less 'fling-off' after applying it.

    I usually cheat - put the bike in first and spray at the back of the sprocket (in-line with chain) while it's spinning:

  6. Apply the lube on the INSIDE of the chain. The centrifugal force over the cogs will spread it. Spraying on the outside is better than doing nothing but isn't lubing the chain as well as it could be.

    I'm NOT a fan of wax type lubes. How does the lube penetrate where you need it most, underneath the roller??

    OP, you have no worries about the Kero - it will have well and truly evaporated by the time you applied the lube, especially after warming up the chain.

  7. you always apply wax lube when the chain is warm so it can melt and penetrate straight away.
    When I had a chain bike the recommendation was to gor for a 10 minute ride then apply the wax lube.
  8. Motul Road FTW.

    Light carrier fluids help penetrate RIGHT away (even on a cold chain) and then weathers off.
  9. It looks as if you've used the no flinging Belray lube... is that correct?
    If so then it looks well and truely lubed. The black stuff is lube.. if there was no lube present the chain would look shiney like it did after you cleaned it.

    I used to use the Belray stuff but I never felt it was doing the job terribly well. It is also much harder work to clean the chain. As Rob said, the Motul chain lube is a far better choice as it's light, applies evenly, spreads easily, cleans off easily and won't fling (unless you over do it).

    For the moment, you chain looks well lubed and if tightened to spec then should be right to go with no problems. :)

    You did mention that the chain was tighter in one place more than others. It's worth keeping an eye on that as a tight spot can be potentially dangerous. If at any tome the chain can't be adjusted to a point where it's all within spec, you'll need to ditch the chain. Give it a look each time you clean and lube (say 500km intervals) to see how it's holding up.
  10. yeah the chain is all within spec

    and yeah it's the belray lube
    I didn't actually spray the sides of the chain... I just sprayed the lower chain sprocket side from above.. and the result is the side of the chain cops it too, espec when you're thorough :)
    so sounds like I've done it alright then yay :) thanks
  11. Hey Rob,

    Wondering why so adamant that lube needs to go on the inside? The rollers are going to roll (funnily enough) so will make contact with sprockets at a different point in the rotation each time, spreading the lube - the rollers in the photo above have obviously done that just from a few rotations, and while the photo doesn't show it you can take my word for it that the sprocket teeth do get covered. The teeth get sprayed directly as well - you can see the tips are white between the rollers... I'm using Motul Road (factory line) btw

    Not taking the p1ss, just keen to hear an opinion different to what I've been taught.
  12. As far as chain wear goes, lube is required BEHIND the rollers.

    As far as sprocket wear goes, lube is required ON the rollers.

    Placing the lube on the inside of the chain means it gets to do BOTH jobs.

    There's a massive thread in this sub forum somewhere where we got down to tin tacks on this issue - Cejay started it.
  13. iva adjust my chain recently and have read and rad and read about making adjustments from the tighest prt of the chain..... my chain and sprockets need to be done soo, but i haven come across a so calle tight spot.... what should i be looking for?

    Mywork shop manual says to also put my finger under thus so called tight spot, lift the chain up slightly so it is straight from the front sprocket to my finger and measure the distance..... is this right?

    Im pretty much lost with this tight spot thing
  14. You know when you have one cakeman. It's obvious.
  15. Cakeman - Lift your back wheel off the ground and spin it by hand, watching the bottom run of the chain. If it lifts up and down as the wheel spins, the tight spot is where it lifts up. If the chain doesn't lift, there is no tight spot, but that doesn't mean the chain doesn't need replacing.

    Rob - still not getting how spraying from outside is not doing both, but will hunt down the old thread rather than trying to get you to explain it again!

    [UPDATE:] Couldn't find thread by searching for "chain" and cejay as author, only got 7 matches, none of them winners.

    Not game to go through 5500 of cejays posts either!
  16. I'm using BelRay superclean stuff too. It's quite odd the first time you apply it and turn a shiny new gold RK chain white :| lol.

    I'm still deciding whether or not I like this lube, I do warm my chain before each application and it still doesn't seem to penetrate quick enough but when I check it after a fair number of kays, it's spread itself out nicely.

    I preferred the can of Motul Road I used on my old chain so I'll get that next time.

    As for Kero, hell I wiped mine straight after scrubbing, let it sit for 10 or so minutes then took it for a quick ride around the block a few times. Was bone dry after that and ready for lubing. :]

    Also, had a tight spot on my old chain. Damn it was annoying, too loose and the chain belts the swingarm, too tight and it feels like a breaking force when it rotates.
  17. i think that if u spray on the outside it tends to flick off more where as if you spray on the inside it gets pushed through the chain onto the outside thus spreading the lube --> centrifugal force
  18. Give the man a cigar :)
  19. i wonder if he will get it now
  20. Get the concept, but fling off has never been a problem for me... In terms of lube being pushed through the chain, surely that would have more to do with the plates moving and rubbing on each other and the rings than centrifugal force during the max 30% (pure guess) of it's travel that it's going around a sprocket?

    If that's all it is, why don't we pile lube onto the middle of the sprocket and let the centrifugal force spread it out to the teeth? (sorry, now I'm taking the p1ss! ) :wink:

    PS - sorry if this is going over (and over and over and over) old ground Rob!