Welcome to Netrider ... Connecting Riders!

Interested in talking motorbikes with a terrific community of riders?
Signup (it's quick and free) to join the discussions and access the full suite of tools and information that Netrider has to offer.

No more clutch

Discussion in 'Maintenance and Servicing' at netrider.net.au started by Fa1c0n, Nov 29, 2014.

  1. It seems my clutch has finally given up. Off the line it slips and I can be doing 80kmh in 3rd gear, twist the throttle to 100% and it revs up with no speed increase.

    I'm planning on replacing it myself with strong springs and aftermarket (perhaps kevlar) plate/fibers.

    I was hoping you experts out there could give me some tips on changing my clutch, WascalWascal I figure you might be able to give me tips on this?

    Any recommendations on Aftermarket clutch parts? Barnett?
    Any tips/tricks on doing the job itself?

    Oh... and while I'm here, how the fcuk do I replace a clutch?
  2. I installed a Barnett clutch on my XJR..... easy job!
    Just soak the plates first (soaked mine for 24hrs prior to installation.... probably excessive?), remember the metal plates have a sharp lip on one side, these need to be on the outside during installation.
    I found the barnett required more force on the leaver, but im very happy with it.
  3. From memory if you go with a Barnett clutch pack you will need to use automatic transmission fluid, or something similar, don't use the formula plus!!
    You will also need a clutch diaphragm spring compression tool ( theres only one spring, the diaphragm spring) anyhow do some research, this looks like a good how to > http://xlforum.net/vbportal/forums/showthread.php?t=49915

    Personally I have been using the stock clutchpack with a screamineagle heavy duty spring and a stock ramp with formula plus oil for around 20000k's, the last 4000k's with a 1250 kit.. ok so far.
    Another thing to keep in mind is if you go with a heavier spring it will be harder to pull the clutch in, if you are doing a lot of traffic stuff, stop start stuff, you might want to think about using a muller ramp, which is supposed to give 40% easier pull. https://www.denniskirk.com/muller-motorcycle/power-clutch.p382824.prd/382824.sku
  4. nothing wrong with my crutch
  5. Thanks guys.
    1. What are you talking about auto transmission for? Do you mean instead of oil?!? :-/

    2. Barnett plates on the lever? Do you mean the clutch lever? It was harder to pull?

    3. What am I soaking the plates in and why?

    4. WTF is a clutch diaphragm and where do I get one?

    Thanks again guys.
  6. it might be easier if you pay someone to do it
    • Like Like x 1
  7. Hi, what bike is it? (Just google the parts diagram, then look up the clutch)

    Unless the bike has a dry clutch; the clutch plates are in the engine oil. ATF-lll oil mentioned, may be in reference to the hydraualic clutch reservoir on the handlebar.
    Soak the plates in the same engine oil you plan to use in the bike, this swells the plates.
    A Barnett clutch has the 4 spring pressure plate set up. It doesn't have the conical (concave) spring.
    My XJR13 did have the conical spring set up as the original set, this is why l went to the Barnett 4 spring pressure plate.
    Buy yourself a new clutch cover gasket, before you start. I reused the old gasket, but you need a spare just incase.
  8. Ye of little faith?

    Every mechanic has a had first time at replacing a clutch, so why can't I?

    Just need the right tools and info. :-/
  9. Im looking at that guide now - bear in mind my initial questions/reply was before I had looked at this guide... This explains a lot more.

    EDIT: More reading done - Might get the clutch inner and outer ramp assemblies too.
    Gonna call my LOCAL bike mechanic and ask him how much to do it.

    Harley heaven wanted over 400 bucks for parts and 120 for labor.
    Hopefully my local is cheaper.
  10. Its a XL1200 HD Sportster..buying new gaskets is good advice. The XL doesnt subscribe to those other theories though.

    Falcon, a workshop manual and google are your friend if you want to do this yourself.
  11. Bikes in the shop.
    It can go one of two ways:
    1. $22 - Clutch adjustment fixes it.
    2. $407 - Barnett Extra plate clutch, barnett 25% heavier clutch diaphragm, Oil, Gasket, labor.
  12. Could say the same about getting you laid ;).

    (That cumback just had to be shared :p)
  13. its much cheaper if you do it yourself, but you probably already new that ;)
  14. The local bike shop is charging $88 - $120 in labor on a side note. If its only 88 bucks, its not that bad.
  15. IF you have the required tools and skills its a relatively painless job. Miss one or the other and you have to pay someone to fix it, and the tow to get it to their shop, and any miscellaneous damage.
    I know of at least one person that has drained the oil from the primary(clutch) on a sportster and then checked the oil tank to make sure there was plenty of oil in it, before riding off and destroying the dry gearbox.
    • Funny Funny x 1
  16. I'm guessing you wont get the parts much cheaper, and around $100 doesn't sound that much.

    Mind you, it's an indicator it's a pretty easy job on your bike. youtube, sporters clutch change.

    One of the advantages of owning a Hardley is all the aftermarket gear. Google away on US sites and you will see all sorts of options for this.

    The other question I have is, "does it need replacing?" Most sporsters have a cable clutch, so it just may need adjusting.

    Here an interesting vid on that front:

  17. That's option number 1 above. Haha.
    In news regarding that, the mechanic called me and said he had some adjustment room, so he has. He had a sniff of the clutch oil and said it didn't smell bad, so he suspected that the adjustment may be enough.

    Im going to test ride it tonight to see, he said if it still slips when I ride then we will need to change the clutch.
    Fingers crossed it was just the adjustment. Haha.
  18. Are we talking about the Harley listed in your profile? If it's two years old and you haven't ridden it like a five dollar hooker, I wouldn't expect the clutch to be buggered.
  19. It's almost 3 years, with 45 000km on the dial.
    I have been riding it like a 5 dollar hooker.

    But, the good news is - I've got it back and it was just the clutch adjustment!
  20. Update, with new weirdness....

    So the clutch now is acting sporadic. Going forwards and changing through the gears while accelerating - sometimes the clutch lever only needs to be released to half way, other times it needs to be released all the way out.
    When the clutch activates at the half way point there is half a lever of free play - when it needs to be released all the way out, there is no free play.

    There seems to be no rhyme or reason, it doesn't appear to be the same gear that its only half or full clutch and there doesn't seem to be speed to it either.

    I can tell you this - it doesn't happen when the engines not running. Tried to replicate it stationary and off, and every gear change was a half clutcher (The final change before I turned the bike off was also a halfer).

    WTF ideas?