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Ninja 250R or Ninja 650RL ?

Discussion in 'Bike Reviews, Questions and Suggestions' started by David92115, Sep 18, 2011.

  1. Hello everyone,

    Getting bike license in few months (gotta save up first) and i been searching all over the place for a good first bike (must be LAMs approved) but i cant decide if should go with 650 or the 250 ninja.. i have got some experience on trail bikes but not with sports bikes and i want a bike that has plenty of power that wont kill me, sporty look, and isn't considered a girls bike (aka 250 ninja lol) and must be LAMs approved for NSW.

    p.s dont even know if 650RL is even approved LAMs.. is it?

    any help?
  2. I'm not sure if the LAMS list is different in NSW, but the 650RL is LAMS in Vic. I owned a Ninja 250 for a few weeks, boring bike. I'd go for the 650RL.
  3. the Ninja 650RL is approved but is that the same as a 650R, whats the difference between them and im only 5ft 7.. will i even be able to sit on a 650R with flat foot on ground..

    P.s NSW LAMs List
  4. Well if you can justify the cost for a little extra oomph for your learner bike, then go for it. If you want to save a bit of money, the 250R is (obviously) the cheaper of the two and can still provide much enjoyment. I own one and was able to keep up with some bigger bikes around the twisties today (although the straight sections were not even worth trying lol).

    Also go and sit on either of them, and see which one is more comfortable for you.
  5. The Ninja 650R is the full-powered version (don't buy this).
    The Ninja 650RL is the restricted-power LAMS compliant version (buy this).

    If you have motorcycling experience then the 250 is not going to be enough.

    Neither the 250 nor the 650 are proper sports bikes. They're tame road bikes. They have engines optimised for mid-range torque rather than top-end power, and brakes designed to give a n00b plenty of feel in hope of avoiding a lock-up. They're both made in Thailand, not Japan, and are accordingly priced in the budget segment.
  6. Depends on your budget. And if it's enough to buy a 650 and yourself having experience riding I would say go for it. Might as well buy now than upgrade later. But it also depends on what sort of riding you use it for.
    And being a chick I see alot of blokes these days with ninja 250s though it may look a small for someone your height or even perfect. And it def beats the cbr 125 I'm going to get.

    And if you rode before you don't need to flat foot on the ground (well I need to cause of comfort factor cause I'm quite petite and never ridden prior to the learners). Plus if you are worried, you can always shave a bit of the seat or lower the bike an inch or so with links and that should be plenty.

    When was the last time you ride on a trail? Cause if thats ages ago I would say go with the 250, learn on it and then sell it back out then upgrade. Alot of people demand secondhand ninjas so should have no probs selling it back out.

    By the way, u planning to buy secondhand or b new? Oh and also consider the insurance (if ur under 25) side if you were planning to get it. Cause I assume there is big difference on the price due to higher cc.

    Just got to your nearest bike shop and see which one you feel more comfy on

    Good luck :)
  7. mostly going to work and going to friends houses etc. I heard a 250 isnt that good for highways aswell which makes me want the 650 more then 250

    yeah ill just get it lowered with links.. and how do you expect people to balance the bike at a traffic light without tipping over and only using tip of toes and not flat foot? that would be so uncomfortable lol

    it was ages ago but i think ill be fine on 650 shouldn't be too hard.
  8. Theres a guy on here who owns a 650RL so he'll be able to tell you all about it. I think it's restricted to 5k RPM to keep the power down.
  9. lol, apparently u slide your a$$ to one side and flat foot it then. (alot of fellow netriders, riders instructor and bike shop dudes taught me).
    As a learner and a shorty who can barely hold up a bike last thing il think about is sliding my a$$ off the bike seat while looking upwards at that Volvo and checking out that stupid taxi behind me, downshifting, braking , holding that clutch in and prob also still wondering if I'm on neutral. ](*,)
  10. lmao yeah will just have to lean to 1 side then lol

    so after i get full license how do i get the full power back then? do i need buy a new bike or is it just a computer chip in the bike that restricts it then i pay to unlock it or what?

    Whats the username of the person who rides a 650RL?

    sorry for dumb questions.. I'm just very stupid
  11. aussieak is his name. as for the restriction i think its both a physical bolt that stops the engine revving above 5k as well as a restriction on the ECU computer. It costs a fair bit to have it legally de restricted i think. this is just off the top of my head so you better ask someone who actually owns one haha.
  12. oh ok well i sent that guy a message.

    so i guess it doesn't matter what bike i get really since they are all restricted

    well ill still go with a 650RL anyway

    thanks for the replies guys
  13. I managed to sit on both bikes and ended up getting the RL for the type of riding that I do. Both bikes have a nice upright seating postion but went with the RL as I wanted to do long rides rather then just around town.
    Not being an experinced rider I wont go into technical details of riding but so far the bike is doing what I want it do.
    It rides nice in 6th gear at 60K and sits well at 100km on the monash with me thinking I need a new gear as the rev build up to about 4½-5K.
    I have not taken the restrictions off and at present I dont really need to as I am most happy riding as is.
    Still not sure 100% of the rules of legally removing the ristrictor in VIC but you would be looking at labour only to have the work done on this bike.
  14. depending on how far your work is a 250 should be fine...i dont know about going for a new ninja...but im just a twat with a dislike for new cbr's ninjas and hyo's ...

    it's your first road bike...you'll read countless times over and over again...buy a shitheap ...a older bike you can afford to drop a few times and learn your roadcraft with as the more powerfull ones won't be as forgiving if you **** up ....granted unlike some other's you have trail-bike experience but still it's something to consider

    back on point though...the 250's do sound girly yes...but they are also alot lighter...easier to throw around corner's ...and are in general fun bike's to be smashing through gear's with...shit...i've got a cast on my leg and could'nt resist having a run by the river just to feel my poor lil engine flog out 13,000 rpm...

    as for highways...if you plan on losing your license or attempting to...yes you will need more power...but i've gotten my 250 upto 140kms on country roads ...which is anywhere from 40-60kms over the speed you can go whilst being lams restricted (something to keep in mind)

    the restricted bike is a good idea...whatever you choose is a good idea...because it's YOUR choice....and i sincerely hope your happy with it.....

    to end this...i am a fu<kwit and need to be back on 2 wheels....and working...god i dribble some shit - apologies to all of netrider.
  15. **** the 250, they're not that great bikes.. If you've ridden other bikes for a while you'll get bored of it very quickly. The 650RL will be a better pick... but why are you limited to just two new Kawasakis? Broaden the search :p

    Woah a 250 that will do 140...? The Hornet hit 180 and was still pulling off the speedometer on the track. If you want a 250 I'd recommend one of these far and above anything else of 250cc
  16. yeah i wont be buying a brand new bike until i have a few years experience so if i do drop it wont be a waste of money, if i buy a new exhaust and put it on a 250 it wouldn't sound too bad would it... that's prob only thing i dislike about the 250 is its stock exhaust sound. and well the power but they are all gonna be restricted anyway
  17. i'm content with the dual exhaust on the old gpx (old gpx's and ninja 250's are pretty much the same bike) i have ....

    and in my opinion it's more effort than it's worth putting on new pipes on a learner bike (alot of people will say other-wise i'm presuming)...especially if you only plan on keeping her for a couple years at most...regardless it might be an idea if it's something your considering to search through the forum's here regarding it and what you want from your new pipe's...like simply sound.....or both sound and a few extra horse-power......

  18. hmmm just been talking to that guy with a 650 and he says i should get that because he had no experience and he said it was easy to get used to the weight of the bike and yeah i think ill go with a 650 for sure now i just need to ask 1 last thing.. do you have to use clutch when upshifting and downshifting? will it damage anything? wouldnt mind using clutch but if you dont have to i prob wont use it much only in 1st gear.. so does it damage anything if i dont use it?
  19. I'm the same height as you (172cm) and I have no problem putting both fett flat on the ground when sitting on my ER-6n, essentially the same bike. The 650R/ER-6 are very narrow thanks to the parrallel twin engine and the seat is fairly low so it's quite easy to handle feet down so to speak.
    I consider the bike a little bit too small for me if anything. You'll get used to the size and weight of the bike quickly. Really it isn't that much more than the 250R, 204kg v 150kg odd? It's not a lot really.

    Changing gears without the clutch. Well, it depends. On down changes you are very likely to damage something if you don't rev match properly. Most riders won't clutchless down change for that reason. Up changes are much easier as it's just a case of backing off the throttle and a smooth upchange. With a bit of practice it's quite easy to learn. Tip, start at the higher gears first, IE fourth to fifth gear. First to second is the hardest clutchless upchange. On the full power version (not sure about lams version) its very easy to wheelie on a clutchless 1st - 2nd gear upchange if your bodeying along and that's pretty hard on the gear box so generally speaking on the bigger bikes, you avoid first to second gear clutchless upchanges if your accelarating hard, no problem for casual accelaration though.

    Lams 650RL & er-6nl would surely rev higher than 5 grand. I've heard stories of people getting 160-170kmh out of there lams versions, that would be about 8,000 rpm on the tacho. (21.5kmh per 1,000 rpm in 6th gear). Plus the specs on the lams version is 35kw @ 8,000 rpm.
    Best to my knowledge, full power and lams versions run the same gearing.
  20. im actually 175cm but yeah basically same height.. so when downshifting, hold clutch in, brake, change gears to match the revs and then when stopped hold clutch in... right? sounds easy