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Newbee questions

Discussion in 'New Riders and Riding Tips' started by hyper24, Mar 1, 2006.

  1. Just a few things, ive had my bike for 2 weeks now and havnt really checked anything.

    But now that i saw it needs oil, I realised ive been neglecting the routine checks/services.

    So my questions are,

    What oil should I use?

    How often should I lube the chain, what oil and how do you do it.

    What pressure should the tires be at, and what other things should I do to keep my bike in check?

  2. And what size funnel tip for puting oil into a bike (Obviosly smaller than a car)
  3. Oil should be checked before every ride, But who does that really..So every couple of rides is fine and changed every 4000-6000kms depending how much you love your bike and how much money you have.
    **Make sure the bike is upright when checking the oil, it's pretty easy to just sit on the bike and check it while you keep it straight**

    I would lube the chain every 2 tanks of petrol or if you ride in the rain lube it after the chain dries, don't use oil to lube the chain..You can buy chain lube from any bike store for about $20 a can (Motul is good).
    To lube it without a stand just take off the chain guard and spray the lube on and then roll the bike foward and repeat until the whole chain has a decent amount on it, let it dry for at least 15mins (I leave mine overnight) and it's done.

    Tyre pressures vary but honda recomends 32psi front and rear from memory (But just get it to where it feels right and leave it at that)
    I have mine at 32F/35R
  4. Owners manual should specify the grade of oil needed (probably 10W-40) other than that really up to you what brand you choose and whether to go with synthetic, semi-synth or mineral oil. Probably best to stick with oil designed specifically for motorcycles - some car oils are fine but many aren't. Bascially you should lube the chain whenever it needs it, will depend on how often you ride, every couple of weeks is usually a safe option. There's plaenty of fancy chain lubes available or you can just use straight (clean) engine oil, depends on how clean you want to keep your rear wheel. There should be a placard somewhere on the bike giving recommended tyre pressures (ADR requirement), usually best to stick with the standard pressures. Also don't forget from time to time to check other things like coolant level, condition of the brake pads, chain tension, battery level (unless it's sealed) and just generally check everything still looks okay and that all bolts etc haven't come loose. Oh and don't forget to check lights/indicators are all working too.
  5. I just went down to the local big w, picked up some castrol something something- have a look in a store, they have oil specifically for bikes. I was recommended as large a watt range as available, ie: 10w-45w.

    I'm a noob though, so my opinion may be worth squat!!!
  6. and a quick tip. Sometimes it's not convenient to carry a funnel for topping up the oil. Just take one of the glossy A4 advertising fliers that you find on most servo counters, roll it into a cone shape, leaving a little hole in the end, and shove it in the oil filler. It'll remain oil-tight for a lot longer than it takes to top up the oil, and you can toss it in the servo bin afterwards. No more having to clean and stash an oily funnel. Oh, and just about any paper will work, although I haven't tried newspaper.

    If your bike needs oil after a week or so, I'm guessing it is not a brand new bike. If you bought it second hand, even from a dealer (especially p*t*r st*v*ns) don't assume it has had any service at all. Give it a full major service immediately. Change all the fluids and filters. Check everything. That way you have a known baseline for ongoing regular servicing.

    This lesson cost me a little over $1000. I pass it on to you for free.
  7. Actually oils with a broad viscosity range (like a 5W-60) have a far greater amount of additives and will therefore break down much sooner than a less modified oil (like a 10W-30). Really you only need an engine oil that'll suit the conditions you plan on riding so you probably won't need anything with a winter (W) grade lower than 10-15 (unless you plan on doing a lot of riding in the snow). For the other value something around the 40-50 mark would probably be best - go for 50 if you plan on riding when temperature's close to/above 40 degrees.
  8. I brought it second hand from someone, who just got a RWC done on it so I could buy it off him.

    So I didnt expect the shop to check oils etc.

    What about transmission oil? wheres the plug for that by the way?
  9. Hyper, get yourself a manual from a CBR forum/web site if you don't have one already. It'll cover the basics you're asking.

    I wouldn't advise using as much chain lube [I use shell advance] as kraven said - only cause even the fling resistant stuff will fling and the excess just builds up under chain gaurds and around the drive cog.

    A little spray goes a long way.

    Best time to lube is straight after you pull in from a ride as the chain is warm. Put the side stand down, put it in nuetral. Give a healthy 2 - 3 second spray on the lower chain. Then using your left hand, pull the bike towards you so that it's weight is on the side stand and the rear wheel is just off the ground, and then use your right hand to spin the rear. Make sure the chain goes around several times to spread the lube.

    Takes about 1 minute.

    Clean and lube the chain about every two - three tanks or after riding in rain.


  10. No need - engine, clutch and gearbox are all using the same oil. Part of the reason why regular oil changes, and using the right oil, are so very important.