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New vs re-cored radiators

Discussion in 'Technical and Troubleshooting Torque' started by lui, Mar 19, 2011.

  1. I am after some opinions about re-cored radiators, long story short it looks like the tiny leaks found on my radiator is not worth of repairing because there are too many and new leaks may develop.

    So the choices are:

    - $450 to re-core
    - $750 for brand new

    Other than the price advantage, I was told re-cored radiator is stronger and more durable, is this generally the case?

    More importantly, can a re-core be made to the same cooling specification as OEM and has the same if not better cooling efficiency? Will there be fitment issues, i.e. difficult to re-install due to misalignments?

    Would appreciate any feedbacks.

  2. Cant quote specifics of whether it is physically better or not, but I have a recored one on my bike that the dealer put on for me (because the one it had when i bought it was leaking and they 'didnt notice earlier').
    New was $800. Recored was about $350. Cant blame the dealer for putting that on :p.
    Recored one was the same type of radiator that mine originally had, so no problem at all with fitment, and i have had no issues with it in the 16 months its been on there.

    Fuel tank and radiator are basically the 2 most expensive single items to replace, crazy huh?
  3. A Recored radiator takes the tanks off your old one and puts them on new fins. Shouldnt be any drama's with fitment or they wouldnt offer a recore for your bike. They dont do recores for some cars anymore because the radiators are so cheap new. Its more expensive in labour to fix than it is to buy a new one.
  4. A recored flat radiator should be fine, as long as the job's done competently. The curved ones that many bikes have now, I'd be a bit more wary about. No specific experience or stories, but I can just see those being a bit more of a challenge to get right.

    Rad guards are a good thing...

    It might be worth looking into the details of a recore job before you cough up the money. Just because the external dimensions of the new core match the original and it doesn't leak, doesn't mean it has the same surface area, the same air flow, the same water flow, the same cubic capacity, the same heat shedding capacity, or the same build quality and longevity. For 1/3 the price of the original, you may be prepared to compromise a bit, but I'd be looking into just how much of a compromise I was making.
  5. Depends where the new one is coming from. Some of the cheap new radiators for cars coming out of China are complete rubbish, making re-coring (and keeping at least some quality bits) a better option.

    If you're talking like for like, ie a new Japanese made OEM radiator, then obviously new is better.

    All depends on how long you expect the rest of the bike to last.
  6. The radiator is flat, so it should be relatively straight forward to re-core if that's their trade.

    It's leaking very slowly, but not dripping. I started paying attention to it after noticing green stuff on the surface of the radiator after a wash, and also the coolant reservoir is on the low side (the cooling system was flushed and filled up to full just 2 months ago).

    My main concern is that the tiny holes are letting steam out and therefore the radiator does not build up enough pressure to push up the thermostat to let enough coolant through, consequently over heating the engine.

    Even though it's not causing immediate problems, I still think that it should be rectified sooner rather than later. The thought of the bike is out of action for at least a few weeks is quite depressing.
  7. If it is just a small pin leak they might be able to fix it up with a bit of solder.
  8. Stop re-corin' me biatch!

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